mypasswordis

Yeah, I guess I mean width. If I mounted both on one heatsink it would get very hot so my plan would be to do it lopsided, one on each side. The tubes would look a bit funny. Even putting the two boards side by side and all the way to one side there would only be 20mm left for XLR/RCA jacks and circular connector for the umbilical at the back panel, and I am measuring roughly 23mm on my panel mount XLR jacks right now so it just barely wouldn't fit.

Just use the 200VA 350V Antek: http://www.antekinc.com/as-2t350-200va-350v-transformer/ Solves all your problems Smaller, lighter, costs less, lower voltage so you can use 550V caps

Any chance to shave just a few more mm off the length of the tube input Carbon boards? Maybe on the left side the zener string has space to be moved and the traces adjusted a little? Then I would be able to squeeze it into this standard size ebay case, which has 300mm internal length: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122099811096

There's indeed a ton of cheap brand new <$100 units on ebay that I'm sure work just fine. Can do sine/square/triangle, sweeps, up to 15-25MHz, good output voltage range, etc.

The tubes need 600mA at 12V, not 1.2A. No problems using same supply for delay. I mentioned this in PM but be careful using 360vac secondaries... that means around 510V on power supply caps which is just not enough margin for 550VDC rated caps. If you have a high mains voltage like mine then they will see 530V which is right at the limit, meaning they are gonna die relatively soon. Especially if there are spurious voltage spikes in the system. Ideally you want 20% derating for electrolytics and 50% derating for tantalums for absolute long term reliability. If you are using 600V caps then it should be safe but I don't see a lot of options there.

Happy birthday! Will listen to some Parsifal today

http://nba.nbcsports.com/2017/05/15/gregg-popovich-on-zaza-pachulia-injuring-kawhi-leonard-who-gives-a-damn-about-what-his-intent-was-you-ever-hear-of-manslaughter/

Please let us know what you end up with. I am using 15V rails and 301 ohm resistors and it sounds fine so I never bothered to try anything else.

We're not your target demographic. The average age of all my headphones is around 35 years old, and their only feature is they sound good..

Need to get around to swapping out some 10m90s for breadboarded cascode one of these days. Bought a hand tap that actually works, which makes things easier Gotta add the t8000 clone to the loooong queue too....

Hooray! Best PG in the league <3 can't wait for game 7

The Ray Allen drama is annoying, though... I hate reporters always trying to instigate and start drama to get some juicy headline Celtics wore all black today... let's see if it backfires. Go Wiz!

I still chug alcoholic beverages when it's called for, whether it be good whiskey or Fireball or Bud Light Just not as often anymore. My motto these days is don't be a douche, and that includes beer and whiskey.

Most cheap DACs including Schiit and stuff from China are almost identical these days, as a lot of DAC chips can handle almost everything internally, like i/v conversion and filters and PLLs. And they are internally already differential as well.That's why I scratch my head whenever I read about a "house sound". I guess there is a house sound, which comes from whatever the DAC chip is.

Yep that's the one I have. No worries, I will only use these GRHVs for 400V rails so I can squeak by with buying smaller 500V caps instead of 550V ones which would be needed for 450V rails.

To put things into a bit of perspective: these are the same people that found it a good idea to start a company whose name and products are based on having a giggle about feces and ass guards, then made the brand of the company into some weird cult with multiple threads across the internet on the narcissistic ramblings of lunatics, as their followers lie prostrate at their log cutting balloon knots preaching about the One True Sound.

Ah, I should have paid more attention and checked the files... probably have an earlier version of the board then. That version is longer and narrower along with the L bracket holes being on the side, which meant it made more sense to mount directly on the heatsinks. That wouldn't work on this version, which forces me to buy a 100mm+ tall case either way I mount it which was exactly what I was trying to avoid :/ Edit: I will just have to buy smaller caps to use instead of the ones I got from Soren's group buy, so no objections to any board

I would definitely prefer the version where the L bracket mounting holes are on the side, like on my positive rail boards. I suspect I'm in the minority, though, so will go with whatever people agree on. Is everyone else mounting this vertically with L bracket or horizontally directly on the heatsinks?

Okay.... but now look at this: It's just a bunch of opamps with standard off-the-shelf DAC and ADC chips, with some relays to do switching, just like pretty much every other pro audio gear. Not saying opamps are bad, but I don't see many headphone enthusiasts rocking CMoys and Mini3s these days.

Just gorgeous

Just making sure, the CCS LEDs need a 1.7Vf for all associated resistors (or vice versa)?

Is there a schematic and BOM for the recent group buy ubal/bal and diamond buffer boards?