mypasswordis

But aren't the t00bs supposed to make the top end smooth and not digital sounding?? Time to tube roll Mikhail style!

^ oops, forgot to answer. Yes it seems like a good price? Especially for a custom. A new Dynalo mini has been born (probably, I haven't tried with headphones yet). Was measuring 72 C on the regulators and 89 C on the output transistors so I threw heatsinks on everything. Now measuring about 62 on the fins of all three Edit: spoke too soon, it stabilized at 70 C Edit 2: I was planning on using the PS for the ubal to bal boards also but everything is running on the absolute ragged edge already so that won't work. I need to move the heatsink for the regulators out away from the switchers anyway.

You'll know once you look at the boards, there is a gap between ground and the other 4 pins. If it's just a standard 2.54mm gap then potentially you could use a 6 pin header (if you cut the end off the gap header), though the socket end would still need to be 4 and 1, and the unused gap header would just be dangling. The RPi heatsinks already have some 3M adhesive squares so just stick them on. I wasn't sure if they were electrically insulating so just to be safe, I avoided the vias on the bottom of the boards.

What wasn't nice was the first negative regulator working perfectly, then my ham-fistedness shorting it to ground with my probe when measuring voltages and then having to order and put in a new one

Thanks, Steve! And many thanks to Kevin for the design and layout!

I'm using +-18V straight out the PS of the Dynalo mini. Actual measured voltages +17.96, -17.92. I tried it at 16V on a GRLV and it still got quite hot, didn't measure temps.

To answer the question, yes they do need heatsinks. Measuring 50-52 C with the sinks in the pic. Don't have part number, just RPi heatsinks from ebay

Be careful not to get a linear taper pot, you need audio/log pot for volume

The pot looks kinda like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-12mm-Alpha-C100K-100K-Reverse-Audio-Taper-Potentiometer-4-Gang-20mm-D-Shaft-/261215523097 If they're similar then check the dimensions and see what fits, or if there's enough space to mount on the front panel you can put whatever new pot there and airwire Edit: I like how they went through the trouble of doing the shaft extender to minimize wiring but the shaft and pot are way too close to the heatsinks, not sure how reliable that will be over time.

Lakers just won summer league without Brandon and Lonzo, aka Mr. Triple Double. #lakeshow

Wearing thin socks works for now and I should be able to wear slightly thicker socks as it breaks in. Thanks, guys. Advice on conditioners and polish for Chromexcel?

Hm, after doing some googling people seem to agree that leather does stretch but there's no consensus on the amount that they do. All my semi-athletic/casual shoes stretched out and became loose over time, but they're not boots. I guess I have 90 days to figure out if it will work.

Got some Evans in hopefully what will become the right size.

You know the answer to that Maybe I also need to start wearing a cup (for safety/retaliation reasons)? Will look into the Wolverines, thanks. Does the leather typically eventually stretch out about a half size?

Thoughts on AE Higgins vs Wolverine 1000 Mile? Are they both too hipster douchey?

Got some old RPi heatsinks I can stick on if need be. Gotta check with temperature probe Okay let me know whenever!

So I did end up using a female header socket and air wiring the ground. The part number for the 4 pin right angle header is 68016-404hlf. The leds I used are extremely bright orange-red, glad once i case it up it will be harder to see. I am measuring about 3.95ma after a few minutes warm up but the thing lights up like a Christmas tree. Will do further testing hopefully over the weekend Edit: the diamond buffer boards are getting really toasty

My bad. Yes they do. For the current source LEDs pick a forward voltage and matching resistor to get close to 4ma and you can use the vishay tnpw like from earlier builds or I used yageos. Also the decoupling caps on the opamps are 0603

Gotta find out if lonzo is right

If they really wanted a small footprint they would go SMD on everything so they could have enough space for a regulated power supply, or at least use some bigger caps than the tiny ones in the T8000. And the more current the amp draws, the higher the ripple on the rails...

Kerry did a very, very nice thing (thanks again!) so I will be building one eventually as well now. Terrified to calculate the total cost of the thing, though...

Except everything you've said and asked so far causes a lot of worry. I know from personal experience that EE students can easily go through all 4 years without touching a soldering iron let alone messing around with almost a kilovolt, so that doesn't mean anything in terms of safety. I also know from personal experience that comp sci majors don't know how circuits work. You should listen to Pars and gepardcv and build a low voltage amp first while reading up on high voltage safety, because while we are not responsible for your injury or death we still don't want to end up on the news (for the wrong reasons)

Yo we had important things to discuss before we left, like the T2 and Carbon. #trueheadphonenerds