Beefy

The most common Xbox 360 failure is the red ring of death (RROD). From all my reading, I personally think the blame lies with lead free solder. The massive heat load and thermal cycling of the early units caused stress fractures in the tiny solder bridges on the CPU and GPU. Leaded solder is soft and would normally handle it. Lead free solder is much more brittle and cracks much more easily. Over the next few years, we will likely see many more electronic devices dying an early death because of this. Newer versions of the 360 don't suffer anywhere near as badly, as the CPU/GPU put out considerably less heat and the cooling system is much better designed. That being said, I've has a 360 for over two years, and have only ever had a problem with dirty disk errors. Easily fixed by buying the 120Gb hard drive and installing the games to that.

I'm generally partial to Canon in the P&S category, but Panasonic has some pretty compelling compact cameras right now. The Panasonic LZ8 would serve you very well.

Ooooh bugger Good to hear from you though!

Is that...... a Hammond case?

I've got a *big* head, and am the fidgety sort...... but despite this the ESW9 are pretty damn comfortable. Much moreso than, say, my Alessandro MS-1 with either bowls or comfies. Clamping pressure is pretty high at first, but they loosen up with gentle flexing. They do sound very good straight out of an iPod. An amp improves things but is certainly not required. Certainly not bass lean - not compared to my AD900 anyway. My biggest criticism is that they don't offer very high levels of isolation, just a mild muffling. But when I want good isolation, I use my SuperFi instead.

I bet you tell kids that Santa Claus isn't real I've always liked Dyson's water flowing uphill: BBC NEWS | UK | How does Dyson make water go uphill?

Bacon Explosion

Although I am not involved and still just a DIY noob, I cannot see what objective benefit using SMD resistors provides other than making it that little bit more difficult for many people to build. RN60's have been good enough for every Dynahi board I have ever seen......

There's more than one type of jazz now

All is well that ends well

HEH, that is indeed a big part of it. I think another huge component is that people are afraid to think they cannot trust their senses to give them a completely accurate assessment of their environment.

It always fascinates me that people are so willing to attribute things that they hear to some bizarre and inexplicable physical phenomenon. The brain is *incredibly* adaptable to sensory input, and exhibits much more plasticity than any headphone driver possibly could (and don't get me started on cable burn in ). Case in point, the upside down glasses experiments for vision plasticity.

Just a word of caution - that might be a bad idea, unless you are very careful. The S22 power supply does not like being connected to an amp while/after it is turned on. The amp appears as a dead short, and since there is no output current limiting you can blow the S22. You would have to be very disciplined to make sure that the power was off before you switched from one amp the the other.

That's a great smiley!

My Mini Max works very well with the ESW9. I don't imagine it would be awful with the ESW10......

There is no way that I could feasibly participate or contribute to this, but will watch with GREAT interest Though if there is any scope for me to jump in on IO boards like naamanf made for his B22 builds, I would definitely give that some serious consideration......

Classic

No. It is still digital, so no DACing. But that isn't to say that the sound card isn't playing around with the digital signal before it sends it.

What is the gain on your Mini3? Dropping that down a notch would be the most obvious option. From memory, there is also an alternative to the WM8501 DAC, the WM8759, that is virtually identical but outputs 0.5VRMS lower. Don't know that you want to try changing the DAC chip now though......

Submitted a fellowship application. Fingers crossed! Finished my second y1. Still haven't got my SMD technique anywhere near perfected, but getting better

WTF indeed...... Sewer horse knows all!

I'd recommend a Mini Max and a y1. Well, that is what I did anyway

Yep, what they said. The full size board with the power supply improvements from the Mini Max, and provision for a bantam DAC on board. Optionally to the Bantam, you could just add another set of RCA jacks and use the relay for two external inputs.

That is almost exactly what AMB says. Still, the diamond buffer on the new Max seems to have a lot more ooomph than any of the monolithic buffers. So given a choice, the new Max is a no brainer. Even moreso with the upcoming new PCB version and improved power supply.

I've always wondered how the Headroom Millet compares to the Millett Max. Anybody have any info? I can't make much out from the pics on the Headroom website......