Beefy

You mean something like the attached file? Not sure myself...... based on my internal layout, it adds a lot of distance to the wiring, and I think I prefer the symmetry of the power and selector on either side of centre. I will play around with moving the label way away from centre though, and using different fonts

Just remember that there are many different ways to skin a cat Depending on the amp you buy, you might find that you get good results from the Front Pre-Out, which would allow you to use the remote control for your receiver to control the volume. Experiment and see for yourself.

You don't want to use the headphone socket - just ignore that it is there. You want to use a Rec-Monitor or other line-level RCA output that isn't affected by the volume control of the amp. You will probably need to mute the speakers when you listen with headphones. [EDIT] Looking at your particular unit, I suspect you should hook up to one of the Tape audio outs.

Another one with the switch now centred. The text originally looked funny being so low, so it was moved closer to the switch to compensate. Overall, I think it is a good compromise. The selector has been moved to the right from the original...... still tossing up what to do with the central text

Yes, that is what I had done. The label is there because the button is a dual LED unit that lights up on power on, and changes colour when SPDIF lock is obtained. Makes a lot more sense for anybody other than me using the DAC.

Modified version attached. Does look a bit better! But I think that if I was to stick with that, I would need to move the selector switch and associated about 10mm to the right, just to 'balance' it out again....? [EDIT] And now added as Hopstretch 2. 10mm movement was about spot on.

Our good man Nate was kind enough to dimension the DWG file for me, so all of that is now confirmed good....... but some thoughts on the cosmetic aspects of the panels would still be appreciated. I have made PDFs of the design files to open the critique up to everyone and sundry, rather than just the techies who have Front Panel Designer installed. The only commentary I might add is for the front panel; the engraved circle around the cutout for the selector knob isn't going to be engraved at all, but is there just to show how big a 30mm knob is in relation to the rest of the panel. Thanks all!

As I understand it, fully balanced SS amps can have much better stereo separation, because the grounds aren't connected. Is it the same for a single ended output stage run through a transformer? Or are they still connected before the transformer?

I think Dusty meant that comment for the benefits of 4-pin connection...?

PM sent re: the measuring the DWGs. Absolutely no need to rush to look at the panels, I'm in no hurry at all...... the cases are still quite a long way away

Hey all, I am planning to re-case my Buffalo DAC using a 2U 300mm deep Pesante case from the HiFi2000 case group buy that is going on. For this case I was going to get some custom panels made from Front Panel Express or Cam Expert. Being my first set of custom panels, I am opening my designs up to any and all criticism for the cosmetic aspects...... and if anybody is really bored and has the time, some super-quick checks that I haven't borked any measurements (particularly for the mounting holes) would be greatly appreciated. Firstly, what the design is going to entail...... I will be buying the SPDIF Mux from Twisted Pear. This includes a 4 position switch detailed here under SR2511F, with 30 degrees rotation between positions. 'Hard' power on/off will be through a Schaffner FN282 IEC inlet module, and 'soft' power on/off will be controlled by an E24. The switch will be a Bulgin double-LED switch which changes colour when the MUX has SPDIF lock. All input and output connectors on the back will be Neutrik, outputs will be both RCA and XLR. The TOSLINK input hole is sized for the Twisted Pear module. For the mounting holes, I have used a dodgy free DWG/DXF viewer to measure the correct distances and sizes, but I'm not confident. For the back panel I measure that the holes are 43mm (height) and 420mm (width) apart, whereas the front panel holes are 57mm (height) apart. If somebody could check at least these dimensions, it would be very helpful. Also, does anybody know 100% for sure what size screws I would need for the HiFi2000 front and back panels? I measure them as 4mm holes, but confirmation would be great. I want the whole thing to be subtle. Panels and the selector knob will be clear anodised aluminium, the power switch stainless steel. All engraving has no colour in-fill, and I quite like the FPE default 'technical' font for the inputs/outputs/power/selector switch. However, I think that the 'Buffalo DAC' text could be significantly improved...... though I'm not quite sure what I really want to have there, and how to make it look better while keeping it subtle. So have at it, folks - any and all constructive commentary is welcome. The panel files and DXF for the Pesante case are in the zip file, the PDFs have the sizes for all the other bits'n'pieces if you are interested. Cheers!

If it weren't for annoying people complaining about shit, then shit would never get fixed. Of course, there are levels. So just remember to take the hint when it comes your way

Looks like a neat alternative to the M-Audio. Thanks Rob From the thread over there, with Foobar it seems to utilise ASIO and automatically adjust output sample rate depending on the sample of the file - bit perfect passthrough from USB to RCA, BNC and TOSLINK. This might be a good solution for me...... I can just add a second TOSLINK module to my Buffalo instead of adding a USB module. As a bonus, I don't have to worry about any potential grounding issues.

What strikes me the most is how the frequency response graphs from others sources differ so much from what Sennheiser is sending to users. Yes, it is remarkably flat between 20Hz to 3kHz, but then shoots around all over the place. Quite different to the ~3dB range up to 12kHz you posted earlier.

I'm not sure if this counts...... but from my apartment, I can hear Paul McCartney singing Hey Jude on the Halifax Commons. Its freaking nuts around there - people everywhere.

It is my understanding that jitter over USB is a problem only when the frames aren't transmitted at precise 1ms intervals. If you are processing, buffering and sending the smallest possible amount of data, there is less chance of the transmit window being missed than if you have to process, buffer and send much more data. Again, if I am oversimplifying things, I am happy to be corrected. You still haven't gained any extra information. For data transmission over what is possibly the least reliable medium, I personally don't see the point. True.

No, just redbook. I won't use it because I'm pretty sure my Buffalo DAC will do a better job upsampling job than a CA$64 DVD player

Cool bananas. Just checking that you are striving for 24/96 for the right reasons. Not that I would ever use it, but I was pleasantly surprised to see the other day that the el-cheapo Philips DVD player I bought upsamples CD data to 24 bit, 88.2kHz or 176.4kHz.

Oh sure, if you have a big collection of high-res material, I can understand completely. But it seems that the vast majority don't, and it is just a case of moar USB! I've seen quite a few cases of people installing upsampling DSPs in Foobar just so that they can use the 24/96 capabilities of their shiny new transport

I agree with the school of thought that noise canceling phones are terrible value for money. Bulky for traveling, require batteries, do not block transient noises like kids screaming, deliberately introduce distortion into the sound, and you are paying a decent wad of cash for the noise canceling circuitry rather than the headphone drivers. Canalphones on the other hand are very compact, do not require batteries, isolate all sounds without changing the sound, and more of the money you spend goes towards the drivers.

This is something I have always been curious and annoyed at...... I can absolutely see the point in striving for a 24/96 USB transport if you have 24/96 source material. But if you are like the vast majority of us just running CD audio at 16/44.1 ripped to FLAC, then what is the point of using 24/96 from the PC? It means you are upsampling in software, giving your PC more to do in real time, and sending large amounts of unnecessary data over USB - all of which I would argue would significantly amplify the potential for audible jitter. Surely it is better to leave the audio in its native format, let the DAC do any upsampling, and minimise the amount of data that needs to be sent? Or is there something I am oversimplifying here?

Holy shit

The Cat Empire are great...... I'm so stoked that they are getting some international exposure. I saw them a couple of years back at the Belvoir Amphitheatre back home, and it was pretty close to the best concert I have ever been to. Hot summer night, cool breeze, full moon, the place was packed...... and the entire audience was jumping around as one big mass

The secret is that when you don't know, and feel like you don't belong, just ask the questions. Soon enough you do know, and do belong.

Nice post oatmeal. You sound like a good sort!