Beefy

That notch... I just... I don't understand.

Another vote for the Etymotic ER-20, or whatever they are called these days. Been using the same ones for 15 years at this point.

I did sous vide picanha for the first time today. A simple rub of spices, smoked salt and olive oil, then cooked in the bath at 133F for 6 hours. The 'grill' part comes from very briefly finishing on the pellet grill, just one minutes a side, with the flame box open and the temp at the absolute highest I could get it, about 700F! Served with fresh chimichurri, I was in meat heaven.

Yep! Nothing says bespoke high end product like a bunch of DIY modules thrown in a box with moar toobs. Was discussing this sort of silliness on another forum recently; also see implementations of Soekris DIY modules from €6900 up to $34000. I mean, I love my own Soekris and TPA builds, but I sure as shit wouldn't pay several thousand dollars for them......

Sure is. A least one TPA power supply as well.

I'd watch John Lithgow watching paint dry. Definitely going to check this out!

Thanks, will do! Just worried about if the power goes off. If we're stuck inside and the little one can't watch Paw Patrol, there will be blood.

Well, this looks promising, Manitoba storm could be 'worst blizzard in decades,' Environment Canada says. High estimates are about 45 cm (18") of snow. And I don't think we're even getting the worst of it, going to be worse to the south. Last I saw, snowfall in Grand Forks ND could exceed 80 cm (32")!

Nestle has been on the shit list for decades, due to pushing formula instead of breastfeeding in developing countries. Countless babies sick or dead from sub-optimal nutrition and formula prepared in unsanitary conditions. In this context, I'm not sure anything will push the needle on their corporate practices

Well, you called my bluff, that is *well* above my paygrade/pricerange!

Be the change you want to see. What are you looking for in a source?

I use a Bourns PDB181-E420K-103B - a bog standard, dirt cheap, linear taper 10K. Completely power off, no standby involved. You can use an audio taper pot easily, you would just have to be more creative with the volume/pos mapping. Can't help you out with the latest version, I'm just a trained monkey building boards that Kerry organised! Just don't get the different versions mixed up. I built and tweaked code for the original v1 with the PCF8574A/ULN2803A combo. The v2 is a completely different chip (MAX4820) and software approach.

Well I'm using a pot for control, and it reads the pot value on startup. Wherever the pot is, it jumps to that volume pretty much immediately, which is the expected behavior. Most implementations with an encoder do save and restore the volume. But I've really gone off encoders for this sort of application; don't like the physical feel, don't like not knowing the volume at a glance.

Would you? Would I? Very difficult question to answer. Either way, I would agree that Ukrainians should be thinking about the next stage. Learning to make IEDs. Guerilla warfare. Counterattacks on Russian infrastructure. Make it completely untenable to hold the country.

Just wanted to offer a quick update on this...... I couldn't get the "all in one" code from @Kerry to work perfectly with my setup; it always opened up the relays to full volume on power-up, and I couldn't work out why. User fastfwd from SBAF took pity on me and wanted a distraction project, and produced some code for me that did the trick. He took an interesting approach to 'dejitter' that works beautifully, and we also added averaging of multiple pots readings and easy custom mapping of volume knob to attenuation to customise things to my setup. Here's the final code: Everything is now all installed in my Exstata. I didn't originally plan to have these boards in there, so the layout is pretty wasteful, but it keeps clean signal lines away from AC. The digital power is four lines from two Twisted Pear LCDPS fed from two toroids - WAY over the top, but I had them all just sitting in the cupboard, so why not? All in all a great end to a project first posted almost 11 years ago! [EDIT] I should add, I have no idea why this code works great, and Kerry's code was causing my boards to open up full volume on start-up. Such are the mysteries of the universe.

I like Bitwarden. Fully-featured free version, with very cheap premium option.

Awesome, love Future Islands. I always remember a couple of times they were on late night chat shows.... It would be desperately cheezy if the vocalist wasn't so damn committed to it all.

I appreciate that, but please don't spend too much effort if it's just me. It's entirely likely I'm doing something wrong! I've used the Arduino IDE and VSCode to customize and build 3D printer firmware, but am really flying blind in terms of proper understanding.

I actually built and installed a pair of these in a balanced amp recently. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the board on a technical level. The problems I had that might have been solved with the newer revisions were size and software. This first revision are physically way bigger than the second. And I'm not a programmer, so I rely on grabbing code provided by others, and I couldn't find code that works perfectly with a pot. Kerry's all-in-one code from the other thread mostly gets there, but it opens up at full volume on power up - this is a bit dangerous, and I'm not nearly clever enough to work out why. I believe the code for the second revision was a lot more complete. I have the LCDuino codebase, but haven't been able to get it to work. But if you have the space, and you have code that works for you, then this first revision board should be AOK.

I like Death Cab for Cutie, and that could 99% be my life. That's really depressing.

Euro style terminal blocks! I use them a lot. Last I ordered was this one: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0391002012/4988597

Ew indeed. I wonder who the fourth horseman would be?

Holy shit, it looks glorious!

Check check!

Would the phase of the transformer secondary windings be an issue here? There doesn't seem to be anything indicating the start of a winding, both wires of each winding are the same color. I know that getting the phase wrong can cause issues when tying windings together to create your own centre tap.