audiostar

Just tried and same for me.

Congrats, JoaMat. Possible the post the schematics, maybe a gerber as well? Thanks!

What about mono blocks, putting both differential halves per channel in their own case on the left/right heatsink. This will give more space on the heatsinks for more transistors and more room in the mid of the case for a proper PSU.

Agree. And a proper 1KVA toroid needed in the middle of the case as well with some 120,000 of caps.

Would using a 2nd board (like the split boards) for the transistors below the main board bring anything? It will keep the two transistor rows closer to each other thus reducing the height of the heatsinks.

Looks very nice, Kevin. I will skip the brackets and mount transistors directly to the heatsinks.

Getting into mighty power amp territories 😃 making sure there is enough heatsink estate as well 😅

What would be the change in length?

Sure, I can do the checking. Which Connex would you recommend?

Hey Kevin, thanks for this - specs look like of a power amp 🙂 wow. Gerbers available as well?

@Pars, if he is using leaded solder, temp might be less than when using lead-free solder. Maybe the boards weren't good enough.

Normally, not. Depending mostly on how long did you hold the iron on the component.

Probably overheating, pulling around on the components and/or lower quality boards. In any case advisable to resolve this first before going further. Might be you best take out the component first and repair the tracks and board.

Then heat up and use a solder wick (or braid) to suck up everything around there. Then clean and solder again using enough flux. There is no such like you can not remove. Look here

Put extra flux in there and solder again. The flux will separate the legs and resolve the bridge.

Kevin's split boards fit the heat sinks of a 2U case perfectly as well. All the inner space is then left for whatever one wants.

Yes, it will be. Both CFA2 and CFA3.

Looks like those relays on the input board are used to switch between chinch and XLR inputs. But that soldering job...

Reading the comments here how great everything is, just wondering why don't you send it back for service? It obviously would cost something but it's their product? 680uF/550V Capacitors x4 upgrade for $999 and a TKD 4CP2508 upgrade for another $999...

https://www.myheadfi.com/2020/11/17/kgsshv-carbon-and-other-updates/

As it turns on, it shouldn't be the fuse, right. It looks like there is some relay based protection on the inputs, can you hear both relays click after turning on? How much did you pay for this (messy) build? Are you comfortable with measuring high voltages and do you have a DMM? Maybe it is better to send it to somebody knowledgable for repair, if anyone is willing that is. Where are you located?

I would put all PCBs on the table without a chassis and see what happens. Second, completely eliminate the pot and measure again. Make it as simple as possible.

If the source was connected I would still suggest to cut pin 1 at the receiver side. You don't know how the source is implemented and where is pin 1 connected to. It may be chassis, may be circuit ground, maybe nowhere. But it looks like you don't have a source connected at all. What's then the purpose of that XLR cable, don't understand?

Yes, this was expected. The different ground schemes discussed here are more like fine tuning and personal preference. All of those are good and you did it already good. Must be something else hidden somewhere; are you sure you are not touching ground from some of the PCBs with the chassis, like when using metal screws or the like to mount the PCBs in the chassis? 1. Just for the sake of experiment, what happens if you put all PCBs on the table without a chassis and connection to it? I am talking everything out not just disconnecting to it. 2. What happens if you completely eliminate the pot and measure again?

Yes, very good advice! This is exactly what I have in my two chassis CFA3 with external dual PSU. Two umbilicals carry the separate GRLV grounds to the amp boards directly. Everything connects together in the PSU case including the chassis and IEC earth.