Kerry

Beautiful x2

Very awesome

Nice work!

Here's a couple of shots of the top and bottom. I really didn't do much in terms of optimizing the layout. I just kind of followed the schematic. It's not the prettiest wiring on the back. I used 18 gage wire for the ground along the bottom. Also, I used 600V Teflon wire when I was going over other wires and tried to raise them off the board a bit. EDIT: Remember, my resistor values are a bit different because I was shooting for a 425V supply.

I'm using an Arduino Uno board. I'm taking the 5V power straight off of the USB port. The board has an on board 3.3V regulator as well as a 3.3V output. I supplied the 12V directly to the board making sure that I tied the digital grounds together (not the analog ground). Here's a quick picture of my down and dirty setup.

Great news... I've completed testing on the board. I checked both relay by relay switching and did a listening test using a rotary encoder. Everything was just fine The rest of the boards were put in for manufacturing and once they are back, we can start the assembly process as well. I'll keep everyone posted as we go.

I can do the extra boards. I could also do extra assemblies, but I don't have extra relays only.

I used the IRC thin film with .1% tolerance. Here's the actual values and part numbers. RP7 15 PFC-W1206R-03-15R0-B RP6 619 PFC-W1206LF-03-6190-B RP5 4530 PFC-W1206LF-03-4531-B RP4 15800 PFC-W1206LF-03-1582-B RP3 41200 PFC-W1206LF-03-4222-B RP2 93100 PFC-W1206LF-03-9312-B RP1 196000 PFC-W1206LF-03-2003-B RP0 402000 PFC-W1206LF-03-4023-B RS0 1330 PFC-W1206LF-03-1331-B RS1 2610 PFC-W1206LF-03-2611-B RS2 4910 PFC-W1206LF-03-4991-B RS3 8870 PFC-W1206LF-03-8661-B RS4 14300 PFC-W1206LF-03-1372-B RS5 20000 PFC-W1206LF-03-2002-B RS6 23200 PFC-W1206LF-03-2322-B RS7 23700 PFC-W1206LF-03-2372-B RT 24300 PFC-W1206LF-03-2432-B

I had a chance to prototype Kevin's new power supply. Here's a picture of my prototype... I've built the bias as well (on the top of the supply). My supply is set for 425VDC and the AC input is 355VAC. Here's a shot of the scope while I was measuring for noise on the 425V rail. I took several shots and this was the worst of the bunch. The amazining thing is that here is a shot of the scope when the power supply was turned off. I have a bunch of 2MHz noise in my appartment so I filtered that out before I measured. It really is a great supply.

The Alps shaft is about 8mm and the extension shaft is .25". I can look at McMaster, but wanted to see what other people did first.

I've got two questions for the group: 1 - Does anyone have the part number for the coupler that goes from the Alps RK50 to the extension rod? 2 - The Neutrik connectors seem to push in a bit when you press the release tab. There is an unthreaded hole on the bottom of the neutrik connector where it mounts to the board. Has anyone tapped this and screwed it in? Is this recommended? Thanks. Also, I thought I would throw these pictures up...

I was able to build the board and it's ready for testing Here's some pics...

The white box on top are the relays - 584 of them The pink bag contains the sockets for the PCF8574s. Once I test the board, it all goes off to manufacturing

Got parts EDIT: I'm going to build the board now so we can start testing.

I've got an Arduino Uno board and Kevin has the all-in-one display that he's posted here. I was also looking at the Netduino as another possibility (I can program it with .NET).

Great News!!! We got the first board in. I'm waiting on parts, which will arrive this week, and will build this before they run the rest of the order. Here's some pics: Can't wait to test this

Getting there Here's a couple of shots of the Amp. I'm going to solder the XLR connectors after I mount them in the chassis. I'll likely do the same with the POT. Here's the underside. Lots of red drops... Here's the top... and here's the 5pF bypass caps on the 100K feedback resistors... That was a bit of a marathon Next up all the power connections and umbilical cords.

Looking good. I got the amp board soldered up and de-fluxed before I mounted anything to the top. I centered all the POTs before soldering them in. Just about to put in the 9 pin sockets. Should they be seated all the way down? If I do that they will sit at a lower height than the octal sockets. I vaguely remember something early in the thread about this, but couldn't find it.

I use these LTL-307ELC in my Blue Hawaii. They are about 1.7V. They have them at Mouser.

I do have some extra boards and can still do some additional assembled boards as well.

Just wanted to give everyone an update. The boards were sent and confirmed on Monday to Imagineering. We will be getting a first article of 5 boards (one panel) in about two weeks. I'll build a board to make sure everything is good and then go ahead with the rest of the boards (two weeks from when we confirm the boards). I'm doing 150 to have a few extra. Once that is complete and they've shipped the boards that will not be assembled, I can start getting them sent out to everyone. Next step for the assembled boards will be to send the board I hand assembled to Imagineering and have them do one board. We'll get it back and test it, then run the rest of the assembly order.

Nice

Thanks - nattonrice also recommended these, but when I looked on digikey they were listed at over $8 and it didn't say it was for a pack of 100. Mousers price is much better at $2.47.

Here's another option: http://www.drillbitcity.com/catalogue/product_detail.asp?Tg=100-10W79-70 These are drill bits with 1/8" shafts. They've got lots of other sizes. Get extra... they break if just think about doing something wrong. I use them in my mill on PCBs. EDIT: Ditto on the changed url

The voltage should not drop significantly when you measure the zeners. Most DVM are about 10M resistance. If you are getting the proper current from Q8 and Q17 then you should not notice a drop. If the input voltage is correct >600VDC, then seems like Q8 and Q17 are not set correctly or working properly. Double check that R1 and R39 are both 3K resistors. Also try to measure the voltage drop across them. It should be about 4V. This would equate to approximately 1.3mA of current. My guess is that it will be way low for both, which would point to bad current sources.