Kerry

Thanks everyone. It really was a labor of love

Happy Birthday Shelly!

Finished... Back plates before I mounted them...

PM Sent

I used 425VAC, 270VAC & 70VAC for the negative rails, and yes I dropped the 75VAC (not used anyway) on the second transformer, which is 425VAC and 235VAC. I'm using the doubler for the bias so I could get away with lower HV on the positive rail. On the LV I added the 8VAC so I could power the digital attenuator which needs 5VDC. I'll probably need different from most, but thought I'd enquire anyway.

I'm using SumR now. Yes, I have pretty much the same space allowance as Kevin's. I did tweak some of the voltages so it dissipates a little less heat.

I might be interested in transformers.

For aluminum, I could mill it for you

I'm pretty sure you need 4-40. I think a #6 bolt is to big.

Got the boards. Thanks Steve!

Happy Birthday!

Not for most of Kevin's electrostatic amps.

Here's a new layout I'm working on. It's a GR HV/LV, Bias and Delay circuit (with LED flasher) all on one 4 layer board (3.5" x 5.5"). The pass devices can mount to the bottom plate or a heatsink. Mostly SMD parts and uses the GR78/9xx modules. Once tested I'll make this all available.

Congrats! I was hoping that was your plan

What a about a regulator after the 12V to bring it to 9V or so? You can probably get lower noise on a separate regulator than a built in one.

Quad's are cool, but I like the Statue of Liberty too

Happy Birthday!

Happy belated birthday

Happy belated birthday

Happy belated birthday Doug. Congrats to your parents

Just built my mini GRLV supplies. The Negative came up just fine and works perfectly The positive supply is giving me some issues and I'll need to debug it. Here's some pictures... This pic shows a board I made for the Blue Hawaii that has the +5V, Digital Controller (ATMega328P) and Digital attenuator board along with the GR7/9xx regulators. I'll mount them once the positive supply is working.

Happy Birthday Al! Enjoy the day

They should, though the spacing is for a T0-247 and not a T0-220, so you'd have to just be careful mounting them.

Here's the code. Just rename the PDF to Zip and expand it into a folder under your .../Documents/Arduino directory. The code works well now, though there are a few things I'd like to keep working on. It will drive one of the I2C 1" OLED displays. I typically comment this out at line 101 in the main program (EDIT since I don't use the display in the amp)... // If not using display just don't create it activeOLED = new OLED (128, 64,SSD1306); // I2C Display //activeOLED = new OLED (128, 64,SH1106, OLED_MOSI, OLED_CLK, OLED_DC, OLED_RESET, OLED_CS); // 1.3" SPI Display I'm happy to keep working on it. I can post the Gerber files as well at some point. VolumeController.pdf -> rename to VolumeController.zip EDIT: I just wanted to add a note that this will work on an Arduino UNO or Pro Mini. Pretty much anything with an Atmel 328P. Could probably support other chips as well. EDIT 2: This code will run the older and larger I2C boards (requires a slight code change) as well as version .4 and .5 of the current SPI boards.

I've got my controller boards working pretty well now with the digital attenuators. I like the larger one because it has a really nice feel as you turn the volume knob (...yes I see it ). I went and added a USB input to the board itself, though this is really overkill - which is why I did it. Here I'm updated with the TX / RX LEDs blinking away. EDIT: I've got to do one more round of cleaning...