Blueman2

Just wanted to say thanks again, @sbelyo, for leading up this group buy. Probably the largest and/or most complex group buy I have seen recently on this or other forums! Let us know when you have the shipping cost calculations complete!

I had this issue with my Blue Hawaii. It was drawing more power than the GRHV was set to output. As I recall, I changed the 5R1 resistor (the large 3W one) to 2R5 or thereabouts and that solved the issue. I just soldered another 5R1 on top of the existing one and it worked fine. The 5R1 sets the amount of current that the PSU will supply.

Great to hear you did not give up on the shunt PSU!! I have a SRX build that I want to use this PSU for, and I hope to build it point to point in the coming few months. Thanks, Jim!! And still loving your SRX Plus design using the current BHUltraMini PSU. Cheers!

Thanks for the updates. These group buys put a big load on the person who organizes them, and this one was the mother of all group buys. So don't sweat it. I certainly appreciate all your efforts on pulling this buy together!

mwl168, you are really making me want to build one of these. Darn you! Well done all around and thanks for sharing with us.

Tube boards are best to be 2mm.

BTW, are those EL34s Tung Sols? Edit: I see in the reflection they are Svetlana's. Great picture!

That is a work of art. Congratulations!!!! So many great ideas and touches, I want to steal them all!

I know JimL designed and built a shunt PSU for the SRX-Plus. Great article on it in AudioXpress I can send you if you want.

Given the fixed setup cost, you might want to ask @sbelyo to get a quote for 2 or 3 sets rather than just 1 set. Price will only go up marginally, and you could probably sell the others later. Or keep them in case one or two boards blow up and need to be rebuilt!

@sbelyo, Can you put me down for 1 additional pair of GRHV boards (so 3 pairs total)? And 1 additional GRLV board (3 total)? Will you be PMing everyone your paypal address for payment?

And for Grounded Grid: Basically a Carbon with Tubes. Or others might call it a Blue Hawaii with updated design. I prefer the former description.

Here is the Carbon v.6 Grounded. Latest version that I know of. kgsshvcarbonv6ground2.zip

Adjusting up is usually not an issue. Adjusting down is more frowned upon since it can increase the cost to others.

Did not see the Grounded Grid file on first page, but I think this is the latest version. gg.zip

The STN9260 is the closest I see at Mouser. Collector/Base gain is the only thing that is off a bit.

Ah!!! Direct heated triodes! That is what dht meant. Thanks for the clarification. Removed the DHT files and left only the regular one.

I think these are the latest gg Gerbers. I will add to the spreadsheet. Since tubed, I will spec 2mm board thickness. gg.zip Yes, these work well with the BH. Good clean power with the ability to add timer function for the HV section. This allows the tubes to warm up for about a minute before the HV kicks in. The only real question is whether to use the on board Low Voltage which the GRHV provides, or whether you want to go with separate GRLV board(s). I used the GRHV on board LV supply and it works fine on my BH-BJT.

I would be in for another set of these boards. The BH-BJT has become my favorite amp these days. Just love it. I would like to have another set of boards in case my son or brother decide they cannot live without one. Here are the gerbers. kgbhver6sbipolar.zip

Note to people signing up for the GRHV boards, this is the pair of boards (Left/Right or -/+). The pair are what you typically need for one high voltage amp. DronEvil, samsie and bluebyte60, you signed up for 4, which means enough for 4 HV power supplies. Just wanted to make sure you wanted that many.

Yeah!!!! Congratulations! Great news. Yes, buying parts from a reputable source (Mouser or Digikey here in the US) is a hard learned lesson for many of us. The other lesson I have learned is minimalism in amount of solder. My Carbon went south about a month after build, but with sorenb's help I found I needed to remove excess solder and recheck all the joints. No issues since. But I am really happy you got your baby up and running. For case, I recommend one with big external heat sinks. The carbon really puts out the heat. Well done, bui501!

Bui501, I did the exact same as you 2+ years ago. I bought my 10M90S from eBay, China source I think. Look at my thread "Exploding Zeners" below. I am still not sure what exactly was going on with my 10M90s 'popping' but once I went with all Mouser, no more problems.

bui501, are you able to take a clear high resolution picture of the front and back of your board? That would help us see potential issues. The good news is that I too have had numerous similar issues during my 4 amplifier builds, but when I diligently listened to what sorenb and other said, I was able to solve the problem so you will too! My encouragement is to do exactly what sorenb advises, step by step, and you will find the issue. My issues came when I assumed I had done a step sorenb (and others) advised, but really had not done it correctly. Particularly in terms of amount of solder and good solder joints.

Yeah, my post is actually somewhat in jest. I strongly recommend the Cree since it has more proving time behind it. But if someone is impatient and does not mind risking burning down their house when something goes horribly wrong, then the ROHM is always there!

Or you can use the ROHM device as a backup, as it appears to have worked great in my build!