luvdunhill

John, can you help me understand what CE means? This is what wikipedia says and leads me to think it doesnt really amount to anything special: " CE marking is a self-certification scheme. Retailers sometimes refer to products as "CE approved", but the mark does not actually signify approval. Certain categories of products require type-testing by an independent body to ensure conformity with relevant technical standards, but CE-marking in itself does not certify that this has been done."

Yeah thats a determination better left to people like Amos and the HF mod team.

Does administration of last rites count? http://www.biblicalvoices.com/

That's Dr. Cavalli to you.

I would post the question on Head-Fi and wait a week and get whatever has the most votes.

If the top and bottom are the same as above, where are the PCB mounting holes? Also I would recommend engineering a place in the PSU case to accomodate some bolt down 50W resistors. I did this and found it very handy. Plus it encourages people to test the PSU.

Ego stroking?

Perhaps he followed the prescribed guidelines. I think they go something like this: "[He] wasn't allowed to trash products he doesn't own (this is fairly universal as a rule on Head-Fi) and that if he had a concern about about a product, to contact the manufacturer and then, if he didn't get a satisfactory reply, to contact us about it"

Amos: Do you really think you or anyone at Head-Fi has the ability to investigate claims on safety of electrostatic headphone amplifiers? Just curious, how would you validate such a claim, assuming someome was willing to follow your stated process?

Good idea! Should I play dumb and ask if they will do the upgrade for me?

Look at the PCB photo and compare.

I want a collection of audio company branded transistors. That would be awesome wall art.

Yeah, tried this. It inevitably crashes at some point after the restore and then acts like a new device. It is very strange. I am waiting for the next point release at this point...

There was an article in AudioXpress a while back that noted the A to be lowest noise if you do not need the higher Idss.

Crashed on upgrade, then fresh installed and restored backup. That worked. Then set it up. The crashed. Now it wants to setup as a new device. Hrm..

ios7 crashed my mini. Seems similar to what's reported here: http://www.theatlanticwire.com/technology/2013/09/should-you-upgrade-ios-7-guide/69563/ Rolling back to an older backup, we will see.

This is the TO-220 torque guidance that I usually reference: http://www.vishay.com/docs/72674/72674.pdf

I use lighter fluid.

anyone have a FPE discount code I could use?

Very similar. I don't use the ground strap on the PCB and connect the earth that runs through both umbilicals at this point. The chassis is connected through the XLR connector itself. I do not remember how the LEDs interacted at power on. Thinking about this more, has a ground loop been created? I realize both umbilical cables need to have a chassis connections so they can be used separately. Maybe it would be useful to someone accomodate for this with a jumper or switch? Maybe a ground loop breaker is better than direct ground to earth in the PSU chassis? Can antiparallel diodes act fast enough in case of a fault?

George, did you tie together GND and EARTH inside the PSU chassis? Still thinking about your channel dependance...

Maybe this is one of the threads? http://forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=861150

I have heard people having issues with the sapphire version (not suggesting it has anything to do with the actual material, that seem absurd, just that model i guess). Might want to verify it works before the return period expires.