luvdunhill

there are a lot of parts that are hard to get over here... like the Philips parts and the fancy polystyrene caps. As for the TDA1543 there are cheaper places to get those. I'll work on my BOM and total things up later next week for 'ya.

well, read the 1700+ replies to the build/design thread and I think you'll be able to come to a better opinion http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79452

+ = ? I'm going to add an XLR jack as well... pics forthcoming!

1/16" bit with a ratchet type screwdriver worked like a charm. I tried again with the 1/16" key type and it wouldn't budge and I felt some of the threads strip a bit... I then tried again with the bit and it worked with a bit of elbow grease... so... thanks tkam!

I built one of the eariler ones and am about to build another. We can work something out once it's done if you'd like to hear it... I can definitely give you a copy of the revised BOM. I wouldn't hold my breath, Feb. is likely unless someone lights a fire under me to get it done for the next DFW meet...

I just picked up the driver set from HF. It is definitely the 1/16 size. I'm going to try it in a hand held screwdriver first (depending on my fustration level, then I'll whip out the DeWalt) and will report back.

does the distortion coincide with volume peaks? if so, there could be some clipping somewhere in the chain... or too wimpy of a power supply if it uses a wall-wart.

heh... let's not get started on this, or I'll have to bring out my grievances with the way that mispronunciations of words like "err" and "bestiality" have crept into the English language...

that's what doublers are for lol, very cool though!

seems reasonable. I was thinking about something like a 12AY7 driver tube into a pair of 6BX7s. Just curious, do you actually mean the 6BL7GT or perhaps the GTA? If the former, then you're probably the only person I've met that has recommended these tubes. I love 'em, no one else will try them

so, they might work. I'll share my experience... There was no way in hell those screws would move with a normal Allen key type wrench. In fact, I'm pretty sure I stripped one trying, so this could be interesting... Also, a few more concerns. Depending on if it's a P2P wired or PCB MPX3, drilling holes for new jacks may be a PITA, as everything is top mounted and the whole enchilada is quite heavy at that. It may be easier to convert one of the jacks, assuming he has two with source selector knob on the front. This is what I'm planning on doing.

definitely not a security bit.. don't forget there are SAE hex and fractional hex as well.

nate: perhaps, but remember tkam is suggesting a 1/16" bit, so it will be quite small, and the screws are black and the chassis is glossy black. I'm going to pick up one of those 100pc security bit thingys at harbor freight (it's on sale!) this weekend and I'll report back

They are exactly has tkam described, they require a very small (I had no idea how small, or even torx, fractional hex, metric hex, etc. because it's so small and hard to ascertain the shape) hex key. Something like this: Honestly, I don't think a camera will get an accurate picture.

two other helpful links for obtaining parts, etc... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1374762#post1374762 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110654

http://www.firstwatt.com/downloads/f4_om.pdf

thanks! I looked at some point at Lowe's / Home Despot and they didn't have anything. Perhaps I need something like this:

my plans exactly... I have about 50 lbs of Plitron toroids and four sets of PCBs ready for the dual dual mono version (can I coin a term? basically, bi-amping each speaker)

Too much gain you say? Perfect for a pair of these: http://www.firstwatt.com/products/f4.htm and a 0.24mV output moving coil cartridge.... Nate: Please keep me posted on this, as I'm going to do the same thing. First things first, how do you get those damn screws off? Honestly, this is what's been holding me back from doing this.

fair enough. I'd be curious what you finally end up with If you like the above, I think the North Star comes awful close, considering the price.

any comparisons between the vinyl rigs? I'm partially biased to the Nott, but I'd be curious what you thought (yup, just call me a "rimester")

yeah I've heard them too I agree with KG, they need double the voltage (at least).

so, all the voltages would scale up in the output stage, so I can keep the 100V zener, the 50K at the bases of the 2sa1156 (soon to be 2sa1413/2sa1968) .. looks fun

me too great tube, especially the RCA and Brimar tubes.

seems to me to be more complex that just swapping out the transistors. Won't I have to recalculate the resistor values for the vbe multipliers in the second stage, or will they still create the 13 v bias for the third stage? The 2sa1156 is a new one for me, I guess the fact that it is surface mount really isn't of any concern, as I wouldn't have to heatsink it anyways? Thanks for the heads up! will the power dissipation for the FETs remain about the same, or will I need to look into some extra heatsinking for them as well?