luvdunhill

I use a Nitty Gritty 2.5 FI with Pure 2 cleaning fluid. I've owned the budget and second from budget VPI cleaners as well as the Disc Doctor manual brushes (i.e. no vac, air-drying) and fluid. For me, the NG and Pure 2 was a huge upgrade over the VPI cleaners and various other solutions. The real comparison between all these cleaning methods was playing a "clean record". My Zyx uses a line-contact stylus (6 x 35 um).The amazing thing is how much crap it can pull from the grooves even after the VPI or manual methods. I agree, the less cleaning the better!

... and one other question. By upping the +- 400v rails, do I need to make sure I change the components required to keep the 300v, 350v, and 380v reference voltages on the schematic, or will these values become -100V, -50V, and -20V with respect to the new rail voltage?

I'm working on a Mouser part list and mods for this project, if you're interested: http://www.vinylengine.com/diy-strobe.shtml I'd recommend waiting until after I order the parts and find out that something doesn't fit With primo stuff, I'm looking at $15 total

I wasn't going to get that extreme! I was just going to buy a bunch of the 450v and put them in series and stick them on 500-550v rails, instead of buying the 900v parts. So, 10m45s 2 in series * 2 per board * 2 boards with 500-550v rails. Looking at the 10m90s datasheet, it seems that you can get 100mA per device, so would sticking them in parallel get up to 200mA total? or is this one of those things that the datasheet doesn't tell you, i.e. 50mA per device is what you can get in the real world? Looking at the 10m45s graph on the last page, it seems that you can get over 100mA per device, like in the 400mA range, but at the top of the spec sheet it clearly lists 100mA... any idea which is correct? of course, all of this is assuming lots of heatsinking thanks again!

Elephas: I can check it out for you if I can get a pin out of the adapters. Also, remember that the BH connects the the cathode to G3 (suppressor grid)... personally, I wouldn't plug anything in until someone looked at the datasheet and the proposed pin out.

I'd invest in a few setup tools. see here: http://www.turntablebasics.com/ I'd get the alignment / overhang mirror and a bubble level. Next, perhaps a stylus force gauge. These are nice, perhaps you can talk the seller down a bit: http://buy.audiogon.com/cgia/cls.pl?anlgcart&1201789984 As for a budget cart, I'd recommend a Denon DL-103: http://buy.audiogon.com/cgia/cls.pl?anlgcart&1203348006 and a Bugle phono stage kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/Hagerman-Technology-Bugle-Phono-Preamplifier-Kit_W0QQitemZ190186910346QQihZ009QQcategoryZ12050QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem yup, I recommended hundreds of dollars but you'll get a great cartridge and a great phono stage out of it.

KG: Is it possible to put two IXCP10M45S in series and get double the current, but the same voltage rating as a single IXCP10M90S? I don't see why not, but figured I'd ask.

x2 the price point is bellow the new and improved BH as well. I'm betting the old BH amps will just increase in price, especially if the Black Gates stay out of production. I guess KG or Justin could comment the BHSE versus the BH as a teaser

is this the newer version that's MC/MM or MM only? They're both great designs, I've built both

or at the bare minimum, incriminating pics!

my biggest complaint about Audiogon is all the lamerz... if you're selling something below $1000 expect to get all kinds of tire-kickers. It's like being at the dirt market in Beijing... frackin annoying if you ask me.

I really love the look and feel of these enclosures. I have been battling with a similar thing with the hifi2000 cases. In my opinion, they look great, but the top and bottom are steel and the sides and panels are aluminum. What I ended up doing with my KGSS is coupling the PCB to both the top and bottom of the case. This made a huge difference. I used a 1.5" female->male hex standoff under the board, then a 1/16" hard plastic washer than a 1.5" female->female hex standoff on top of the PCB. Granted, a custom case would be much nicer, but this was a simple DIY fix Maybe one day I'll try a copper bottom / top I'm going to try FPE new "design-a-case" for my DIY BH, and we'll see how that goes. Hopefully I can measure the board holes properly... that's what I'm working on now.

Quote from: justin on Today at 02:09:09 PM ... The 1st 2 stages will become a small surface mount module Quote from: spritzer ... Sounds great.

justin: My vote is to try the Analog MAT02 for the front end. I think it sounds fantastic, if you lower the input impedance a tad. I cannot get any LSK devices, or I'd love to try them... Linear just ignores me :( I thought Newark was picking up the entire Linear line, but they don't seem to be selling them ... sigh... Also, this is strange (perhaps Kevin can comment) but in the KGSS it seems that the 2sa1156 positions sound better when closely matched. I matched all of my transistors like +- 2 hfe across both channels (yes, I had a lot of devices and even more spare time).. I swapped out the 2sa1156 for some 2sa1968 that weren't matched at all and then played around with a matched pair and went back and tried unmatched 2sa1156... i swear I could tell the difference... very strange.

yup, I've built one of those

my KGSS supply is dual mono... it's adjustable to 500 V. I'll keep you posted I will have pabbi1's BH to compare with once it gets done.

hey, totally off topic, but I see in your sig you have a Lector CD player. I have a good friend that has a 7t and I really like it. How does it compare with your modded Denon source? Have you heard the 7t?

Ori has even contacted me in the past, once after I posted meet impressions and forgot to mention anything about someone with his modded stuff at a meet and once when I posted something about TOTL DACs.

There is an important difference between the schematic and an actual implemented amplifier. The KGSS schematic leaves lots of room for tweaking, whether increasing the standing power of the amp, or using a different power supply, using a different dual transistor in the front end, etc. all three I've done. The result is no where near the original. Same with the ES-1 versus the schematic from which it was born. Not to nit-pick, if you're comparing the Headamp KGSS versus the Singlepower ES-1 that's fine. They are rather static entities, despite all Mikhail's "options". I think one day we'll see a big-bad KGSS make a come-back... it's a great design and the first time I heard it I fell in love with it, even comparing it with the Blue Hawaii. It's no coincidence that the KGSS is the starting point for the new KGST as well the TakeT amplifier that KG proposed.

if you ever need a very good xlr->rca adaptor, check out the ones that BAT makes. They're excellent quality.

congrats! I cannot wait to see steps 5-12

so, I'm staring at http://www.fastener-express.com trying to add some replacement screws like the above to my order, but cannot for the life of me find them. Any ideas?

nm.. makes sense

nate: there should be a way to take a stop out of the rotary switch and then just add a third jack to back and then wire that to the newly created position. Are you going to try this? Also, what do you guys think of the Audio Note copper foil caps? Thinking about throwing those in there. I originally had the Jensen's and didn't care for them. I just finished getting the old leads out and the solder cleaned up and ready for the new caps. I wish I could afford those new teflon Auricaps ... Also, any idea of the function of the axial electrolytics near the tranny?

In all seriousness, why not consider the new Synergistic line, Pranawire, Kubala-Sosna, etc.. there's lots of good stuff out there.