luvdunhill

well, since my amp would provide no voltage gain, absurdity is merited. Aleph doesn't have enough voltage gain (I'll go hunt for what I need) edit: according to Papa: "...which is about 16-20 dB (gain) and +/-20V (swing) per input leg" the amp can handle a +/-40V unclipped output in balanced mono (as it's called in the docs)

just curious, are there any significant changes / improvements to the design? I have a set of boards and all the required parts, including transformer. I was sorta thinking about it as a preamp, but I would like to know its max voltage output, as I would use it into a Pass F4 current buffer and need lots of voltage swing.

yeah, I learned this the hard way.... me <- stupid First, why the hell did I even want to use ERS paper? and second, why did I stick it the bottom of a PCB? I have to say this ranks right up there with some of the stupidest things I've ever done.

B&D has 8 2sk389 in stock right now, I'd buy them if I were you.

ERS paper over the fets. Try to cover both the heatsink and the tab of the fet for maximum benefit.

I like SUCKITALO better.

I owned one of those ages ago. I'll be interested to see what you think

USPS Global Priority Flat Rate box

any good reason that Mikhail would parallel two 0.1uF caps from the ground of the heater CRC filter to the star ground of the rest of the circuit? I suppose he could charge for "upgrades" to these caps.... so very strange.

I've found that the mosfet as a pass device doesn't sound as good with the KGSS. I'm guessing it's due to the behavior of a vertical mosfet (BUZ90, IRFBC30, etc.) under (relatively) low current conditions. Does anyone have an opinion on this? There has been some stuff written on this, but obviously not in terms of audio...

cetoole: I'm using the Fairchild FQPF2N60C in a HV regulator design. Pretty nice specs. I buy my heatsinks from R-Theta these days and absolutely love their service, but for the price this guy cannot be beat: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbarrredboss Plus, he will custom cut the extrusion to whatever you'd like. Great guy to work with.

Honestly, I'm in a bad mood, so I should just stop posting for a while... f-ing work...

Not to speak for KG, but the purpose of doing a project write-up so this type of info is documented?

use 500v caps then.

The first KGSS psu called for a 800VAC CT @ 0.2A (Thordarson 24R22U) plus a

sounds like a CD transport

I agree. I posted these same conclusions somewhere after listening to pabbi1's...

try 700v for the psu and 1.2kv peak-to-peak output. That's the stock output, you can easily double the current / power if you have heatsinking. It's fun, just pray that the exit wound will be *very* near the entrance wound for any electrocutions.

I probably misunderstood Nate then, I figured he was looking for old board files... carry on.

there are a lot of shitty board designs out there... good luck on this endeavor. I hope you enjoy troubleshooting.

2 links, but there are so many more: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5459&CATID=25&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=557 http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=1_198&products_id=436

would a DIY CD-ROM controller kit work for you? These are pretty nifty, but require some knowledge and DIY skills.

any sequences of -- or /* etc in the message?