luvdunhill

a few things. First, the 35mm diameter caps are too big to allow proper airflow around the R2,R3 resistors that will be dissipating some heat. I'm going to have to change to 30mm caps for those with the upgraded kit and I'll keep the 35mm 22,000uF cap for the off board smoothing cap. Also, Digikey is out of 2 important parts, namely C12 and C13 for the RIAA circuit. Part numbers are P3864-ND and P3884-ND (Panasonic 1% polypro caps). I'm not sure where else you can even order these parts, but I'd like to keep the 1% tolerance if at all possible. I have everything added to a cart so we need to decide what to do about these important, missing parts. Looks like they are expecting them to be in stock around 08/28/2008...

Thanks Pete. I use around 150 ohms for my LOMC cartridge. A maximal set of values would be something like: 47, 100, 470, 1k, 10k and 47kΩ 0, 100, 270pF, 370pF and 470 pF Perhaps you can check around and see what other phono stages use? For the type, either mica, or the same Panasonic ECQP(Z) caps would be fine. What do you prefer? If you want some snubbers, I can do that. I usually use BC Mono-Kap and probably have a strip laying around somewhere I can include if that's okay with you.

this is really a taste issue. I find that bypassing the reasonably priced Mundorf M-Cap (or perhaps even better, the biggie box caps like Rifa PHE450 (yum) or Wima MKP4 / MKP10) with something nice is a reasonable option here, hence my default recommendation of the M-Cap with Russian teflon bypass. Depending on the Zin of your preamp / headamp, you can go with something lower than 10uF as well, so keep that in mind. I've also used Black Gate N (flame away for using a electrolytic as a coupling cap) with good results. The Auricaps are a good recommendation, as are Multicaps, or the Zen capacitors from North Creek's going-out-of-business sale. Outside of the above recommendations, I don't have much to offer

good idea. I'll add those.

I almost bought some of those, but was worried that they wouldn't fit. What type of filter is this? seems interesting Either way, I'd just use these: Relcap RTE Capacitors they come in the size you need and are physically small, and they sound great. I'm not sure how many you need, but for less than a fiver they shouldn't break the bank. I can even pick some up for you at PartsConnexion and send them with your Pearl parts if you'd like to save a bit on shipping.

yes, that's more or less true. What about Ebay? I've dealt with tubehunter in the past and he has 2 of the box type for sale right now. What are you looking for, perhaps I could hook you up?

probably a nickel allergy, as I have the same issue. Very common these days, especially with people of German / Russian descent it seems.

here are those LCR caps I referred to: LCR COMPONENTS | MKP/HR 10000PF +/- 1% | Capacitors | Passives | Newark.com

PartsConnexion part list: RCA jacks (2) CONNEX-68140 earth post (1) VAMPIRE-55449 capacitor clamps (2) CLAMPS-58847 coupling caps (2) MUNDORF-71340 R1 (1*2) <user value> R10 (1*2) PRP-50038 22K 0.25 Watt R12 (1*2) PRP-50026 4K7 0.25 Watt R13 (1*2) PRP-54542 1K5 0.25 Watt R14 (1*2) PRP-70167 1K0 0.25 Watt R15 (1*2) PRP-50051 100K 0.25 Watt R27 (1*2) PRP-50045 47K 0.25 Watt R28-R31 (4*2) PRP-50001 22R 0.25 Watt R4,9 (2*2) PRP-70165 221 0.25 Watt R5 (1*2) PRP-53818 3K3 0.25 Watt R6,R7,R11,R16,R17,R18,R20,R21 (8*2) PRP-50032 10K 0.25 Watt R8,R25 (2*2) PRP-50000 10R 0.25 watt I think this could be considered a minimal list. Cost including a few dollars shipping for each individual is $3 (shipping to me) + $16.80 (resistors) + $17.30 (capacitors) + $25.25 (jacks) = $62.35 * 1.03 (PayPal) ~= $65. ** Don't send me any money yet, as I'm waiting to see what goes on sale at PartsConnexion on the 1st and we will see if we can save a bit more. ** I also have some Russian teflon bypasses to throw in as well. Parties interested in other coupling capacitors, contact me. All that remains is the 2sk170BL / 2sk389BL. I'm considering just offering a matching service and giving you 2 matched pairs and 2 matched quads of the Linear devices, or 2 of the can LSK389 and you can play lead twister. I can either sell the new Linear devices to you (I'd probably recommend getting 20 or so) or you can buy matched Toshiba devices from Jack (see somewhere in the thread). I should also have some matched Toshiba devices if you wanted to get them from me, but I'm going to charge about the same he does (minus shipping of course). Matching the quad is not necessary, but should improve noise and if you wanted to lower the ballast resistors you probably could get away with it. What does the peanut gallery say? Sorry if my initial estimate wasn't spot on. I tried my best. If you'd like to source these parts yourself, feel free. No pressure, just trying to make things easier for people.

PMs sent out for Digikey parts.

no I can only do so much my friend. I don't think we could have gone cheaper on the case or toroids. Just choose the simpler PSU version option and I'll continue to try and hit your cost target.

the first thing on the PCB is a series resistor. So, you'll need either 1 cap off board, or remove this resistor and use the first cap on the board as your first smoothing cap. There is a separate schematic in the service manual that shows this. More or less capacitance is not an argument I'd like to have. I did double the capacitance in my Xono clone and it had a positive effect. Not as much as tweaking the RIAA circuit or even bypasses on the main board. Downsides would be more inrush current to deal with, and some people think that things don't sound as "quick"... YMMV, but there are 2 options and feel free to go either way. If you want something else (like the 2" tall stuff) just send me part numbers. sure, I can throw some in, or pick from Digikey. I'd place it and the necessary resistance after the first cap on each psu. sure thing! You can do things Manley style, have at it I use dip switch box (for lack of a better term) on my Xono which works well, but in my case you have to open up the enclosure. Using selector switches would be pretty nifty. no, I chose this bridge because it's easy to mount and has fast-on tabs. If you want to go with individual diodes like the CREE zero-recovery Schottky, or Fairchild Stealth, do it... they don't need to be heat sinked, but you'll have to build out a little PCB for them to sit on. I don't see why not, but you may need to add some holes in the top and not stack the boards. Feel free to shoot me any part numbers you're interested in and I'll add them to the list!

I have some, but yes matched pairs would work.

Nelson Pass and others prefer the silks for measurement reasons (and listening). There are test results over at DIYaudio somewhere... I actually use Black Gates before regulators, so my feelings are hurt

yes, they give the real stuff a bad name. Look for the old yellow Philips / Siemens KS box caps, with *real* leads. The other stuff you have to be very careful not to damage them, and honestly I'm not sure how you tell if you did indeed damage them. There's also a company called LCR (?) that sells grey box caps that are in current production. I've only found them through Farnell.

looks like the identity of certain caps was obscured to protect the innocent:

here ya go: :) High End Audio - Electrolytic capacitors

here are the parts I'm planning on offering from Digikey. Let me know what you guys think, as I'd like to get this ready to go once the boards arrive. Please let me know of your interest here or via PM: C10 (2) P3874-ND (was P3124-ND) 0.120uF C11 (2) P3876-ND (was P3154-ND) 0.150uF C12 (2) P3864-ND (was P3473-ND) 0.047uF C13 (2) P3884-ND (was P3334-ND) 0.330uF C4,6 (4) P3154-ND heat sink (2) HS133-ND Q2-Q5,Q12 (10) ZTX450-ND Q1 (2) IRF9610PBF-ND D1 (2) 1N5346BRLGOSCT-ND R2,3 (4) P4.7W-3BK-ND$2.38 / 5 bridge (2) 26MB10A-ND fuse (1) 486-1234-ND IEC (1) 486-1084-ND SIP sockets (12) A461-ND (for loading resistors and capacitors) jumper blocks (12) ED7264-ND (for loading resistors and capacitors) jumpers (6) A26228-ND (for loading resistors and capacitors) standoffs (0/4) 1825K-ND (2.5" only for those stacking boards) standoffs (4/8) 8414K-ND (4 for those stacking boards, 8 for others) if you are in need of extra capacitors for capacitive loading, please let me know. Total for above is $78.50. The difference in standoffs is about a wash, and one price simplifies things. This doesn't include shipping (but it does include sales tax), but we can settle up on that later. Then we have 2 options for caps: C1,2,3,PSU ( P6946-ND C5,7,8,15 ( P11249-ND [/code] Total for this option is $75. Then the other option for those looking to cut some corners (less capacitance, default part recommendations from the guide). [code] C1,C2,C3 (6) P6939-ND C5,7,8,15 ( P5557-ND Total is $38. This leaves the JFETs, coupling capacitors, capacitor clamps for unregulated PSU cap, RCA jacks, earth binding post, and resistors.

what is the function of the caps you're interested in? coupling, bypass, rail capacitance, timing, etc. for me, anything that involves styroflex / polystyrene Also, has anyone tried using PTFE trimmers in place of small silver micas in the pF range?

if you're interested in the boards, I can give you contact information on who to talk with, but the order has been placed so you'll have to fend for yourself in terms of overseas shipping. Orders for the toroids and cases have been placed, so you're on your own there. You can benefit for the rest of the group buys, just let me know.

non-switched I'd assume? I'm curious why there isn't an output selector... so I see your confusion.

I don't listen to gear these days, I just look at it

meh.. I'd rather just have a big ass isolation transformer and bits of AC filtering and EMI/RFI filtering in each component... if I really cared, I'd get a NEMA class surge protector and be done with it.

ah.. just unplug it before the storms? I don't see why people recommend a surge protector at all...

why use a surge protector at all? why not use fast blow fuses with some sort of inrush limiting?