luvdunhill

Tim: Which Stax amps / Earspeakers have you heard?

profitable?

don't forget to bolt down those heat sinks...

For my upcoming preamp:

I'd be interested to know if the certain someone who PMed me about the Muse decides to buy it... 'cause we'll basically have the same setup, give or take a few tweaks in the amp....

wow, those look awesome.... /me is looking for dealers nearby

I also got the cases today. Did I say it was going to be a tight fit? Basically, I think there is only a single good config. The toroid mounted against the front plate, and the 2 caps and bridges mounted to the bottom panel, right up against the front plate. Thus the PCBs will be moved to the back corner, away from the IEC inlet. It will be close, but it should fit. Remember that diodes emit RF and should be placed away from any input / output lines, and of course the same applies for AC lines. I really like these cases for the money. They look kinda crappy, until you get them assembled... then they are nice and sturdy. With a nice front panel made from wood, I think they'll be very nice. Also, it's about a small as you can get this project, in terms of case volume... trust me

interestingly enough, the subsonic filter was only added on the Xono and was not present in the Ono... also, both are capacitor coupled.

ooh there's another Muse Model 9 signature for sale: AudiogoN ForSale: Muse Model 9 I've had mine for almost a year now? Definitely more "digital" sounding than my Museatex, but I really like it on the 24/96 HDAD discs, for example.

so, when are you going to make an external adjustable bias supply

lol

Last night I got all the resistors and such sorted into kits. I also received the Russian teflon bypasses and had a chance to try them out on some other projects and I am very impressed. I don't think they will disappoint. No updates from Digikey, they're still trying to get a ship date from Panasonic. I have a bit of soldering to do for a couple people, and then I'll start in on the JFET matching this weekend. Once I get the JFETs matched and the cases arrive, I'll probably just break down and go with the lower tolerance part from Digikey so we can get the parts shipped and the show on the road.

don't forget to ask John for a suitable power cable upgrade :)

I find the lack of Japanese parts disturbing

I thought it was a GO8 I hate when people "misspell" things like that.

one of these? I seriously doubt it. from [url=http://www.total.ee/?id=841&type_id=&product_id=109]Total Eesti -

408A/6028

yeah, they have a very particular way of doing things, but it is excellent and well-thought out. However, get ready for some nice heavy cabinets. I might have a pair of 10" drivers up for sale soon. In my opinion, the best driver out there for a true 3-way. It the SS 25W/8565-01, I measured them and that's it, otherwise brand new. Looks like you may have other plans though... Also, I'd recommend this forum for speaker building (and more importantly, designing). Extremely knowledgeable people there, and in my opinion the best forum out there for this stuff: HTGuide Forum - Mission Possible DIY Take care!

Nate: I also like bitumen pads... not as DIY friendly perhaps, but meh... As far as I'm concerned, then North Creek manuals are the bible on enclosures, until you start stepping up to the academic articles.

PartsConnexion order shipped today. Since it was a large order in $ terms, it was upgraded to UPS. I'll have it soon. Now to annoy DigiKey some more...

The 6v6 is a pretty craptastic tube... like, 12au7 bad. I have had several pieces of gear that used them, and the best by 10000% is the Pope 6v6gt ... I don't get why people like the RCAs. If you want the RCAs, for some unknown reason, rumage through old console sets and organs.... they're pretty common there.

checkout "geek" on diyaudio, and his website/webstore and the forum he runs...

don't mess with the adagio kettle... it sucks. I'd recommend one of the Zojirushi Water Dispensers. Also, Upton Tea if you haven't found them.

Nate, one good reason to use 2 switches is when you're using a non-latching switch, there is a transformer / psu that will still be always on. It's nice to be able to completely shut off the unit.