luvdunhill

cordless with a NAG recable would be sweet.

yeah, look at the MK2 and MK1 pics and you'll see where the screws are on the MK2 that aren't on the MK1. I'm not sure about the ports, frankly I didn't notice them. I'd have to ask the owner about it, or perhaps Spritzer can comment if they'd be there (are the ports in the cable, or in the frame)?

yes, I've repaired a MK1 with a MK2 cable. It works fine, just no screws.

well, if there is a known fix for a known issue with current production parts, I wouldn't really say there are reliability concerns ...

the main issue is definitely the cable entry, assuming you listen with the cups rotated in an optimal position.

a good amount of information, actually. I'll agree with aerius on the "bonus black key" pianos.

heh.. the pics have top caps though that narrows it down, right?

cool, just talked with Avel and they are sending a small roll out. Also, they recommended orienting where the primaries and secondaries exit away from the sensitive circuity, as there is a gap there that can leak. Thanks for the suggestion!

do you think I could take a square of it and just stick it to the toroid mounting dish?

yeah, so this definitely doesn't have enough gain for a 0.24mV cartridge. Whatever Postjack's Bugle is set to would be as low as I would go. I was listening to this with my PPAv2 turned all the way up and the volume was moderate. Unfortunately, I feel like the verdict is still out on whether or not the toroids will cause trouble. I couldn't hear anything last night, but just didn't have enough gain the chain to know 100%. Also, it's really not that bad of a build. Since the boards are mounted to the top and bottom panel and they just slide out, and you can simply remove either one of the side panels and get access to either side...

cannot post pics I get: "Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing. If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error." So, they are here: Picasa Web Albums - M - Pearl edit: notice the stray shielding... haven't figured out what to do with it yet Probably tie it to the earth post and connect that to chassis with a thermistor, Papa-style..

quiet as a church mouse... notice the creative location of the 2 MOSFETs...

I just got a DHL tracking number, so.....

If your looking for good resonance control without adding a ton of mass, Kevlar is a good choice.

what does she weigh so far? Also, I may have some extra environment unfriendly #12 lead shot that could work well for you. Where / how will you cut out the ballast chambers for the fill?

I'd ask Madisound or PartsExpress. They should be able to help you.

909: just to further the point, this weekend I did some driver break-in and pumped 20 Hz to a set of tweeters at low levels ... Also, I have done some spice simulation of a MM cartridge and often times, you're better altering the R and not the C loading. For example, the cartridge I'm looking at is a MM cart with 45mH inductance. The best loading seems to be 100pF (including cables) and 22K input impedance. I need to measure the capacitance of the cables, but I'm guessing they are not much lower than 100pF, so just a small amount of capacitance is needed.

MOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOT FOTMFOTMFOTMFOTMFOTMFOTMFOTMFOTMFOTM =)

I have a lot of things to post, but first things first.. I have mailed out all the JFETs. The numbers on the tape indicate the Idss that I measured for that device. Perhaps somewhat counter-intuitive, you may want to match the higher Idss value with the higher resistance values.. for example, measure the 4 22 ohm resistors and pair the highest value with the highest value written on the piece of tape for a given group of four. Reason being that forward transfer admittance (Yfs) varies directly with Idss. The inverse of Yfs is the apparent resistance of the JFET and we want to match the drain currents across the four JFETs. To to this, we want to ensure that 1/Yf_i + R_i is close the the same value, for all pairs i.

even with moving coil you should consider using a small amount of capacitance if your preamp doesn't already include it. Again, this acts as an input filter than enables the preamp to operate more efficiently.

it is a high pass filter that is used to protect your drivers from subsonic frequencies or so called "woofer pumping". Since your drivers cannot reproduce frequencies under a certain value, this filter protects them by enabling them to operate in their intended frequency range.

then you don't understand what it's used for

Sanyo eneloop 16 x AAA @ 800mHA. Hope they work pretty well.