luvdunhill

supposedly a good combo.. I would have gone down that route if I hadn't heard the (then) top of the line SUT (Bent Audio silver S& and was rather let down. Next I listened to the top 3 or 4 high gain solid-state phono preamps and decided that this was where it is at (for me).

I have never owned the 103R, but the if the difference is indeed the resonance control in the front of the headshell, I'd try 100-200 and see what you think. swt61 will be trying 100 and 150 here soon, maybe he can let you know what he thinks.

yes, a really cool design that will sound fabulous.

don't give Ray any ideas....

enjoy!

for 45, try 00011011 edit: should be 10001101

no, sorry, I meant the voltages with the motor connected.

sweet! math does work once in a while. Then, just give me the voltage for the 45rpm setting, when the voltage is as close to the correct speed as you can get it and I'll calculate the new DIP settings. edit: just for the hell of it, invert the DIP switches for the 33rpm setting and see if there is finer adjustment... I realized that for the 33rpm, both settings will "work" but one will give you better fine control. If the second setting gives you more control, then invert the settings for 45rpm and this may fix your issue... or either way invert for 45rpm and see what happens

ok, so can you give me the new voltages for 33 and 45, just like you did in the very, very first step? It will just take a sec. Also, you have a massive package in the mail. When changing the resistors on the Pearl, I'd recommend taking one side off, then changing one channel, putting that side back on, and then removing the other side to access the other channel. It will make more sense when you see where the adjustment resistors are.

right, so when you do that part of the setup procedure, the motor won't be running, but the circuit will be trying to run it. that's fine. and on the latter, no it's not that important really, but know if things don't get dialed in 100% with this setup procedure, you can revert back to the working state by moving the jumper over.

Kevin probably already has one of these working in his lab, but this is nevertheless an interesting read: Hot nanotube sheets produce music on demand - nanotech - 31 October 2008 - New Scientist Tech The video of the nanotubes being stretched is kinda cool too.

after the above is completed, here are the next steps. With the motor off, examine JP2, it's near the 6 black capacitors on the right. Place the jumper so it's connected to pins 1-2 (so, in the right hand position). Then place the meter in the ohms position and measure resistance across the motor terminals (X3). This is done just like you measured the voltage above, but with the motor off and the meter on the ohms setting. Let's call this resistance R1. I got around 70 ohms for my setup. Then, carefully disconnect one of the motor leads and make sure it doesn't touch anything and then switch the controller on and place it in the 45rpm mode and let the platter get up to speed (a few minutes is good). Then measure the voltage (remember to switch your meter to the voltage setting) yet again at X3 (this time with one lead of the motor disconnected). Hopefully, this will be above 5V, if not let me know (and double check that you're on the 45rpm setting). Let's call this voltage V1. Turn the controller off. Now, with these 2 numbers in hand, do the following. Set that little trim pot thingy I gave you to the same resistance you measured in the first step (R1). Just measure from one wire to the other and turn the trimmer and get as close as you can (accuracy is key here). Now, plug the end of the "resistance thingy" into X3 where you removed the motor wire from and then connect the alligator clip to the other end of the motor. Thus, this resistance is now in series with the motor. Make sure things don't get shorted out and double check that things are setup as above. No, really double check Now, turn the controller on and measure the voltage across X3 yet again. Then adjust the yellow trimmer on the board that is labeled VR1 until you get the same voltage across X3 as you measured above (V1). Once you've done this, turn the controller off, remove the series resistance and plug the motor in as it was before. Then turn the table back on and verify your speed settings for 33rpm and 45rpm. Let me know how things go. You may have speed stability issues when it's all said and done that we can address in a less scientific manner. You can always move the jumper at JP2 back to the other setting (left position) and things should then be as they were before. In theory, the right setting of JP2 (current compensation turned on) should be better... Have fun!

First, center the 2 front knobs so they are in the middle of their adjustment range. Kinda like setting a balance on a old receiver so the left and right channel are the same. If you have a indicator on your knobs, I'd rotate the knob so it's in the "up position" at this point. . The following values are read left to right when looking at the front of the controller, where 1 is when the actuator is moved towards the "ON" label of the switch. If you choose the left bank of switches to be 33rpm, then this will correspond to 33rpm when the switch on the front is in the left position. So, I get: 33rpm 10011001 45prm 00110110 this will hopefully dial it in where the knob is in the center and things are pretty close then you can fine tune the exact speed using the knob. If for some reason things just arn't working, then try inverting the 1's and 0's (i.e. move each switch to the other position) as your switches might have been installed backwards. Also, I'm going to send you all the banding for the toroids from the group buy. If anyone needs any, please contact swt61.

cough Doug Deacon cough

no, I just thought GPH was implying that RSA was having issues with ALO cables, and was pointing out that this isn't the case if he actually owns and praises them... probably my misread (again)

this thread was funnier when we were mocking the other thread ...

also, looks like Ray owns and uses an ALO cable. continue reading to the next page.

funny, as Google shows no hits for the term "active autoformer". I think we can assume that you made it up. Also, a buffer doesn't match impedance by definition. The article never says that it does.

fine, I'll call you on it. Sign up for an account at DIYAudio and post a question in the Pass Labs section addressed to Nelson whether or not this adequately describes his circuit and whether or not "active autoformer" is a real term and whether or not his circuit matches input impedance to output impedance. He will answer.

yeah, not to mention the fact that: A.) you made up the term active autoformer B.) what the heck does "matching input and output impedances" mean anyways? C.) What the heck do you mean about it's active then the rest is passive? What is the "rest" anyways, the output jacks?

what? you can't just make this stuff up as you go along...

I think I have a pair of PIMETAs that are basically finished. You could use the pair of them and make a balanced PIMETA, if you are at all interested I also have a toroid and I think a single TREAD. So, you'd have to buy a second TREAD, which is a fantastic first project. If you are at all interested, let me know and I can post pics.

yeah, I included the time it took when I shot the tiny as hell parts across the room when picking them up with tweezers and had to find them. I ordered parts for 2 builds and need to replenish a few here and there... I figure I'll do the second one tonite and then order the remaining parts after I inevitably loose more. Mouser seems to include an extra part every now and then with cheap SMD parts, so that's nice. I'm not sure if your flux virginity still stands, but this project would be a good one to go find try some nice liquid flux

Looks like the OP failed to use Occam's razor.

Listening to one right now... sounds excellent for the cost (~$25) and time spent building (~3 hours). I wish the position on the PCB where the coupling caps are could alternately accommodate a PCB mini-jack, as I'd prefer to use input coupling caps on each of my amplifiers (as opposed to the output coupling caps on the Bantam)..... this way I could tune the input cap values to the impedance of the specific amp I'd be using. Probably the output caps are more idiot-proof though. I've tried both the suggested Wima and Black Gate coupling caps and now prefer a pair of blue OS-CON caps that I stole off of swt61's old Opus More info: BantamDAC Overview