luvdunhill

cough Doug Deacon cough

no, I just thought GPH was implying that RSA was having issues with ALO cables, and was pointing out that this isn't the case if he actually owns and praises them... probably my misread (again)

this thread was funnier when we were mocking the other thread ...

also, looks like Ray owns and uses an ALO cable. continue reading to the next page.

funny, as Google shows no hits for the term "active autoformer". I think we can assume that you made it up. Also, a buffer doesn't match impedance by definition. The article never says that it does.

fine, I'll call you on it. Sign up for an account at DIYAudio and post a question in the Pass Labs section addressed to Nelson whether or not this adequately describes his circuit and whether or not "active autoformer" is a real term and whether or not his circuit matches input impedance to output impedance. He will answer.

yeah, not to mention the fact that: A.) you made up the term active autoformer B.) what the heck does "matching input and output impedances" mean anyways? C.) What the heck do you mean about it's active then the rest is passive? What is the "rest" anyways, the output jacks?

what? you can't just make this stuff up as you go along...

I think I have a pair of PIMETAs that are basically finished. You could use the pair of them and make a balanced PIMETA, if you are at all interested I also have a toroid and I think a single TREAD. So, you'd have to buy a second TREAD, which is a fantastic first project. If you are at all interested, let me know and I can post pics.

yeah, I included the time it took when I shot the tiny as hell parts across the room when picking them up with tweezers and had to find them. I ordered parts for 2 builds and need to replenish a few here and there... I figure I'll do the second one tonite and then order the remaining parts after I inevitably loose more. Mouser seems to include an extra part every now and then with cheap SMD parts, so that's nice. I'm not sure if your flux virginity still stands, but this project would be a good one to go find try some nice liquid flux

Looks like the OP failed to use Occam's razor.

Listening to one right now... sounds excellent for the cost (~$25) and time spent building (~3 hours). I wish the position on the PCB where the coupling caps are could alternately accommodate a PCB mini-jack, as I'd prefer to use input coupling caps on each of my amplifiers (as opposed to the output coupling caps on the Bantam)..... this way I could tune the input cap values to the impedance of the specific amp I'd be using. Probably the output caps are more idiot-proof though. I've tried both the suggested Wima and Black Gate coupling caps and now prefer a pair of blue OS-CON caps that I stole off of swt61's old Opus More info: BantamDAC Overview

Charles Hansen is a genius, enough said. It's very hard to do what he does with no feedback, I don't think anyone would disagree. The volume control in an absolute masterpiece in the K-XR masterpiece. I've only heard a single Nick Doshi design and was quite impressed. I'm not familiar with the current offerings though and how the price would compare with the Ayre. I think the Doshi designs probably keep their value due to their "cult status", but who knows.

is that Huffie the Towl?

yup, I love this feature, my BAT preamp was the same way. In fact, you could use the solid-state phono stage card through the tape loop without firing the tubes up, which was *really* nice

my brain has been missing the last few weeks. I thought you were implying that you could run headphones right off the tape loop... I didn't see the "amplifier" part

do it (then send me high rez photos) oh and I call dibs if you need to move them quick and cheap (really cheap) for some sort of tax reasons, or mafia "reasons", or divorce settlement, or whatever..

high current shunt reg you say?

I suppose for some a heart-pitter-patter is special anyways, the question would be whether or not the main preamplifier circuity is responsible for handling the headphone load, or if it's an ancillary function. The latter would be my guess. Reason being that the tape loop may be powering something like a tube amp that in normal situations would cause an impedance mismatch.

It's probably just a buffered tape loop. Hell, I can do this off my KGSS and have done so.

local sheetmetal shop is what I'd recommend if going steel. I wouldn't want to mess with it. Otherwise, cover it in mu-metal shielding and ERS paper

actually, this is interesting... so, I had ordered pj's parts at Newark and then got annoyed as there was something stupid out of stock and it was going to take 3-4 weeks to get in... well, I forgot to cancel the order... and just got notification yesterday that it shipped. So, if anyone would like a pair of opamps and a SOIC adapter, let me know and I can send them out for a modest fee.

Here's the website with the regulators: NewClassD Products They also sell them at PartsConnexion. I think P-A offers some similar chips on his website that might be cheaper.

sounds like a good option. Maybe do a simple CRC filter as well. I just cannot see a sigma22 to be practical at all, given the cost and the fact that you're not planning on replacing the regulators. If you want to spend this kind of cash, you could replace the regulators with DEXA discrete regulators or something like that and use the unregulated supply you're proposing...

sure. I need you to do 2 measurements for me. First, put your meter in DC volts mode. If you get one of those cheap Centex red ones from Harbor Freight, like this: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices then place the knob in the position that points to "20 DCV" and the black probe in the "Common" location and the red probe in the VOmA location in the lower right hand corner. Then place the probes across the motor terminals inside the case. Just follow the wires going from the socket to the PC board and measure at the terminal block. I believe it's marked X3. It doesn't really matter which probe goes where, as we just need an absolute reading. Be careful not to slip and short things out, in other words, don't let the probes touch each other when you're measuring. This measurement needs to be done with the table running for a minute or two so the speed is able to stabilize. Repeat the same measurement for the 45rpm setting. Just to give you an idea, mine measured around 7.5V for 45rpm and 6.0V for 33rpm.