luvdunhill

recstar24: I don't know where your ethics lie, but you might be interesting in reading this thread: diyAudio Forums - Someone's DIY Aleph J for Sale - Page 1

taken from here: chassis/enclosure questions.... - Page 2 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

so, does anyone need anything anodized black? I found a place to do it locally, but requires a minimum order of $100...

in which case, you could reterminate the volex cords... half the work!

as long as the black Delrin rod doesn't get involved.

actually, the Adcom is a perfect unit for modding, but I didn't get the impression that was the direction you wanted to persue. edit: oh I was confused... anyways, yes your correct.

... and maintains proper phase.

I think you are confused between EMI and RFI. The tests below were specifically for EMI. Not thing to vindicate the vendor here, but it's hard to say what frequency of EMI is considered "bad" for electronics. For example, what is the impact on wide-band opamp circuits working in ranges > 1MHz like used in amb's mini3 portable?

oh and what EMI frequencies are important in the audio field, pray tell?

There are some significant differences. The CCS is a different type (passive) and there are electrotylics in the gain circuit in the Adcom. Finally, the Adcom has very cheap DC coupling caps on both the input and the output. I'd call the GFP a "poor mans" Aleph P. There are a few other differences, but it's been a while. You're definitely not pulling a "Sherwood" here, but just figured I'd let you know that you're not quite on target FWIW, the Nakamichi Nelson Pass implementations (CA7II and PA7II) are quite a bit better.

oh, and before you ask what the last two items are for....

just bought some metal online. If anyone needs to buy from onlinemetals.com, let me know and I can send you a discount coupon as part of their refer a friend. It's an additional 5% off, which is added to their 5% discount for signing up and the 10% discount for material orders over $100. Anyways, here's what I got: Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Square 0.375" Cut to: 11.8425" 8 @ $1.66 Aluminum 3003-H14 Perforated Sheet Round Hole 0.125" Thick (0.5" dia. holes) 0.6875" stagger Cut to: 12.0457" x 5" 4 @ $10.84 Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Rectangle 0.375" x 2" Cut to: 4.25" 4 @ $2.55 Plastic Teflon Virgin NATURAL Extruded Round 0.8125" Cut to: 12" 1 @ $9.03 Plastic Acetal Black Round 1.375" Cut to: 12" 1 @ $9.29

I'd be more worried getting a prank call from a hacker if I had a pacemaker....

hey, have you ever considered trying a First Watt F3 with your Gallos? I know you may be headed down another path, but I think it would be worth trying... Here's a F3+Gallo review.. 6moons audio reviews: FirstWatt F3/Gallo Ref 3.1 - A brief riff on good sound and the power required to make it

very cool. Though the next panels you'll see on a project of mine will be wood Material is headed down to Dr. Wood himself, from a purveyor of fine instrument woods in the northwest. Just have to keep him from "spilling" that pink dye all over the material....

Akido? probably "Audio" honestly...

hmmm... ends with an "O".... let's see....

I will between his bouts with his spinal cord injury and his experimental Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy (HBOT).

getting closer. Just need to decide what type of screws to use on the rear panel.. need to figure out how to mill the buttons now, as you can see the actuators in the picture. I went with a slight countersink on the rear as discussed above, so I need some "top hat" shaped buttons.. Also, I'm looking for a "smooth" Alps rotary decoder for the volume.

Are you not worried about balanced to single-ended conversion issues, such as phase problems?

So, I have never really found a good quick connect that I like... I used to buy some insulated parts and stick them on the end of an old power inlet that uses quick connects and try and pull the plastic part away quick enough to separate the metal from the plastic, then feed the wire through and solder then reattach the plastic and heat shrink the thing... that's not working with the last few ones I've tried. So, any recommendations? I'd really prefer solder types to crimp and they must be insulated. Thanks guys!

Security research on a Mac simply sucks. Finding bugs on Macs is like a walk in the park. Believe it or not, it's harder to find reliable bugs on Windows platforms these days. Nobody cares about attacking Macs, target audience is just too small. I was controlling a 100,000 member bot net just last week.. I don't even know if that many Macs exist.

So, I'm working on a pair of monoblocks. swt61 has seen these monster heat sinks. 12.2" wide x 12" tall with 2.925" fins and 0.326" base, weight is 13 pounds... and I got four. I've done some thermal plots of 6 devices per heatsink on a small PCB. Each device is dissipating 14.8W x 6 devices x 4 channels ~ 350W. I'm wondering how much further I can push the devices. The sim data is very close to actual temperatures and since I don't want to drill holes under the devices for thermal probes, the simulator will be gospel. I don't really want to move the devices apart anymore, as I have a PCB in mind I'd like to accommodate, plus a design of my own. Datasheets for devices: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FQ%2FFQA12P20.pdf http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FQ%2FFQA19N20C.pdf Attached are some plots and below is the tabular sim data: Thermal Design Details Heatsink type: Extrusion Part number: Extrusion: 9012 Weight: 5.26685 kg Heatsink dimensions: 309.96 mm wide x 304.8 mm long x 74.3 mm high Material: Aluminum Finish: B Environment Ambient Temperature: 25.0 C Altitude: 0.0 m Thermal Design Details Temperature Source Names %sc Power Tsink-avg Tsink-max Tcase Tjunction C C C C N2 0.3% 14.8 W 49.5 49.6 49.6 77.9 N1 0.3% 14.8 W 48.6 48.9 48.9 74.4 N3 0.3% 14.8 W 49.1 49.3 49.3 75.5 P2 0.3% 14.8 W 49.5 49.6 49.6 75.9 P1 0.3% 14.8 W 48.6 48.9 48.9 72.3 P3 0.3% 14.8 W 49.1 49.2 49.2 75.5

nope. I have 2 though. I also have 8 JISBOS buffers Just curious, do you know if any of the other TPA modules will be available tomorrow?

I' dunno, haven't surveyed solid state sources. Amb seems to think that "many" will not work fine. Here's amb's reply: "OK. 2.2K is quite low, users of the Joshua Tree should be mindful of source compatibility. A usual rule-of-thumb is that the input impedance of the amp (which is usually dominated by the volume pot/attenuator) should be at least 10x higher than the output impedance of the source. This means that the source should have an output Z of around 200 ohms or less. Many sources do not meet this criterion."