luvdunhill

Personally, I'd try and sell the amp. Then, we can work to make something nice for you. Since you paid for a top-tier amp, I'm assuming you'd still be interested in going that direction. I'd suggest starting with some of the new Bent Audio modules for attenuation and input / output selection. That leaves the main amplifier. If you are still looking for a solid state amp, then consider the Dynafet or the beta22.

IMHO, if you're looking for a preamp, starting from the list of available headphone amps and deciding which would make a good preamp is sorta putting the cart before the horse. Assuming you're looking for dual duty, I'd still start with a list of preamp designs. In my case, I was looking for a preamp with gobs of voltage swing, and even in this case, the beta22 would be a poor choice. So, everything in this thread really depends on your specific application.

diyAudio Forums - FS: Cardas female RCA (GRFA S Thick) - Page 1

you'll be fine then. Is this all you need? I might have a pair laying around somewhere, perhaps I can save you a few bones on shipping and what not. Otherwise, you might shoot naamanf a PM, he might be able to help you...

I bought a soldering iron just for these jacks. The blue Hakko dash works fine with the stock, giant tip. I think it's like $30.

you need a distillation column to get anything out of TPA these days...

yeah, B-Jade doesn't have much of a ring to it...

uh, what's the opposite of "scope creep"?

I just heat it up and then drill through the back of it with a suitably sized drill bit. Comes right out.

how long does it take to drill 150 holes?

bah, this is perfect application for my massive FPE skills

yes I did. But in fact, I think modding a ONO would be a better route. First, his boards do not allow for the Japanese transistors pinouts and he has substituted the BCXXX critters in their place... this may or may not be an issue for you. However, even if they did fit, many are impossible to find... even harder than the 2SK389. Assuming you get past that, there is one LED in the CCS that has a 1.5V forward drop that is next to impossible to find.. I finally got one from someone that yanked them out of floppy drives and know exactly which ones had this drop. Now, of course you could play around with the values and what not, but again, this may be an issue for you, depending on how faithful to the original spec you want to be... it was more trivial than just changing a few resistors though, I do remember that. Also, the DDPAK MOSFETs in the balanced portion of the circuit in the original design are installed on the bottom of the boards and coupled to the case. This is very hard to do with these boards and they are hard to keep cool unless you are very creative. Also, these really need to be matched, and heck if I know a good way to do that with this form factor. Finally and most importantly, matching the quad of 2SK170 at the very low end of the Idss range is very hard to do. I'd guess you will get one tightly matched quad out of 50 devices, given the sum of the devices current needs to be below some number. If not, then there are issues with the gain jumpers working properly and the second stage doesn't bias properly. Again, there may be ways around this, but who knows. It was a very fun project and there are benefits to these boards, such as DC coupling the output and being able to really tweak the RIAA filter with yummy parts. It's a well thought out design and layout as well, got to give him credit for that, and sounds fantastic

well, the JB Weld worked .. kinda.. this was a #3 thread and the JB Weld sorta took up too much room and I couldn't really tell when the screw hit the bottom, and is was tough to screw it in straight. Remember, I have all of 3 threads available.. I just kept turning and ended up with a dimple on one of the screws on the front. doh. The nice thing is, it make a volcano shape around the standoff that seems to be stronger now. I just did it on the standoffs that are holding a small PCB transformer and probably will not do it to the rest. In other news, I need to add vent holes to the top of this thing.. I'm thinking a largish 7/16" hole, as that's the second largest size on my stepper bit, and I need lots of open space, and finally I can get alligator clips in there at this side for adjusting bias and offset. I'm looking at a 8.5" x 8.5" area that I need the holes (for reference, the case is 17" wide) soo.. I need to draw up a pattern today, so I can print it tomorrow, so I can carry it with me to where I can do the deed. So, trying to come up with a hole to hole distance and a stagger pattern, any comments (or templates) are much appreciated

I always wonder how the heck he (NP) gets the C/W numbers he does out of that profile.. just defies all common sense.

... and the best and brightest always want to work for multi-million dollar companies.

tacit approval of Spritzer's review I assume? =)

yup, you have the basics. Having spent 1-2 years working on a DIY turntable concept, I can say that this project can be as difficult as you want it to be. Personally, I wouldn't attempt to DIY the platter, bearing, or tonearm. With those nearly impossible engineering feats out of the way, putting things together is not trivial. I'd start by heading over the DIY Audio and looking through threads in the Analogue section and start a thread there outlining your ideas and plans going forward. Good luck!

heh, just got this error: "This forum requires that you wait 30 seconds between sending private messages. Please try again in 2580 seconds." System time seems to be off?

Comply and the materials stolen from your Markl modded Denons will magically reappear. Until then, your forced to live with sub-R10 performance.

he's part of the mafia supply chain now.

I like LspCAD or even (gasp) Speaker Workshop.

Thanks for the kind offer! I in fact, already ordered though and it works fantastic! They actually do carry them, they are made by a German company Block. Very nice transformers and much better priced than say the Amveco PCB mount toroids.

I've outputted a lot of frustration into SoundEasy... I hope it's gotten better, for your sake.

yeah, because multi-million dolllar companies always hire the brightest and best talent they can.