luvdunhill

yup, as long as you can provide enough current and handle the voltage drop (~1.7V) you'll be good.

:palm: however, now I somehow start to doubt the existence of the Mafia.. I mean, shouldn't I be dead now? Maybe there aren't enough capodecina around. Anyways, I'm getting close to being able to include two rather interesting prototypes, so perhaps the wait is justified.

wassat? like, soloists?

well, by all means then. Maybe find a way to use "light pipes"

basically, the Silonex optocoupler is what you're trying to do, all one one neat package. It's a extra, extra dark black box with a photocell and a LED inside.

heh, look at the datasheet I posted... it's a bit more sophisticated approach.

eh x 2? What's screw adjustable? I'm talking about the Silonex devices, here's a datasheet: http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/SILONEX_INC/SILONEX-INC_ACTIVES-AND-PASSIVES_6993012.PDF

I hope they were what you needed

how are you counting? if you start all the way to the left, that counts as the first step. Then after 1 click, that's the second step, and so on...

well, depends on how important channel matching is to you. I'm betting you'll need around 20 or so LDRs to get good matches, and perhaps a few more to get a decent price break.

woah, nice work there! Let's see, when is that Austin get together? I think Al is dreaming something up in Austin perhaps once a few projects get ready for public viewing.

nice! what percentage have been banned from CanJam?

no offense to George, but the one Choky is selling should sound a lot better. I'd recommend trying that out one.. includes a nice integrated buffer to boot: diyAudio Forums - Poor Serbian Man Lightspeed packages - Page 1

I'm a huge fan of slot ports... but, I think that is probably the sloppiest part of the build.. not that I could do better, but.... I'm wondering if the exit looks like that, then what the internal part of the port looks like (is it rounded over, etc.)... edit, it may not even be a proper slot port, just an opening.. in which case, that's kinda fail in my book.

Actually, the main difference here is the width. Those R-Theta are only 7" wide. The ones Steve and I have are a full 12" wide.

sure, if you're willing to by a ton of extrusion. They are made by R-Theta.

looks good Steve! A few notes: measure the resistance between the binding posts and the chassis. This should be an open circuit, or infinite resistance. Measure the same between the RCA and chassis. These should have come with shoulder washers to make sure the post won't contact the hole... now's a good time to verify this. Those black discs (thermistors) in the PSU will get warm. I'd recommend heat shrinking the leads and trimming them down so they don't accidentally get knocked around. Important thing is that nothing touches the leads and the don't really touch anything and are relatively secure so they won't move around. For example, you could bend the one on the rear panel at a 90 degree angle to get it away from the aluminum case. Same thing with the little thermistors on the amp boards. Also, you'll want to sort of bend the leads of these devices down so the black head is sort of near the mosfets. Think of these like little thermometer probes that need to sense the temperature of the mosfets. The rest of the wiring is sorta simple. You need to run wires from the +V on each boards to the caps (upper left I think?) and -V on each board to the other output (lower right?) and GND to the copper. Also, you need to connect the inputs and outputs to the rear panels. I'll leave this as an exercise to the reader Leave lots of slack in the wiring to facilitate tearing things down if need be. Fantastic work in so little time!

yup, this isn't really an issue at all. Take for example the following topologies: active crossovers, PLLXO crossovers, digital domain crossovers (Behringer devices, etc.). All of these have the potentially long cable in the same location in the circuit with no detriment. From my experience, there are no negatives. The positives that I've personally measured are: less inductive coupling due to more room to properly layout inductors. If you're building a large floorstander, this is less of an issue, as you have more room. But if you have a small three-way with 30 odd components per channel, there is no way you can cram it in a speaker enclosure without detriment in this area. Even more to the point, is I have a small three way with four inductors per channel. There is no way that you can space these out properly. This is pretty easy to measure and verify. This also includes interaction with the drivers own inductance, as you pointed out. less microphonics from the capacitors. Well, I guess this may be harder to convince people of, but it's really noticeable when your in the trenches designing a crossover. The best way to mitigate this if you want to stick the crossover in the enclosure is the use of box caps, as I've found they are far less susceptible.... yes, you'll need a lot of them in some cases, but they are well worth it. Some people damp the hell out of the axial capacitors with silicon, but this just doesn't work so well I've found. Anyways, have fun!

yeah, I'd go with the 40 step TKD for approximately the same price. Also, +-2dB accuracy to log curve and +-1dB channel matching seems rather lame to me...

You're building someone else's design on the one hand, and on the other hand making blind judgments on what is a good idea and what's not? There are a lot of good reasons to do external crossovers... the added resistance of the wire is pretty much trivial, but if this concerns you, it's easy enough to compensate for it.

how much? Aren't they only ~20% cheaper than a RK50? 10K is fine for anything I'd be using it for ...

actually, that is very very sweet. I hope to try one!

Smeggy: I dropped the parts in the mail this morning!

Jacob: Nice! I would prefer something other than constant slope, as I have rather low output sources... Looks like I could change the calculation of stageAttenuations to be a piecewise function to do this?

yeah, even scarier is that big lump of the second hardest wood known to man in his workshop. .... I'm not even going there, it's too easy.