luvdunhill

I pay $26/$1000 on house + land. That's on the low end, definitely.

Just curious, what's the cost of living index (COLI) difference from say your current location and Austin, TX? Housing prices are on the rise here and food isn't really cheap here either. For example, where I first lived there wasn't any fast food restaurants within 5 sq. mi. and our average monthly grocery bill doubled. I know it's not NY/CA/DC/etc. but I'm curious nonetheless. Housing for typical middle-class in north Austin is around $100/sq ft. or so I'd estimate, double that if you move more towards downtown.

yes, or to piggy back the resistors on top of each other on top of the board. Now that I think about it, perhaps this is fine, but I think they could be moved slightly apart.

When I first saw a coaxial from Thiel I immediately didn't read any reviews for this reason.

A number of people cast a very wary eye one *anyone* that does reviews, whether it be "professional" or more amateurish in nature. This is for right or wrong, but this is how it is. My question is, why do you agree to do reviews? Why not listen to the gear and have a conversation with the manufacturer about what you liked and disliked, then return the evaluation unit and not make a public statement? Are you looking for some sort of public approval? Not that this is "bad" per se, but I'm curious, why do you do it?

Puerto Rico. It's beautiful there. I'm going on business there next week and am psyched

I just summarized all the above requests for change and PMed Jacob

if you ever get a chance to hear them, I'd love to live vicariously through that experience and read your impressions!

yes, and no. I was referring to the SCS4, but making a jab at the fact that Audio Advisor, Crutchfield, etc. is now selling Thiel, which is a little sickening in my book. I don't think 87dB/4ohm is all that hard to drive, the limited 48Hz cutoff makes it a bit easier. I'd love to hear them personally, a rather cool design. I don't think the price is all that out of line, consider the driver and the rather complicated enclosure.

I think 512-MC78L15ACP and 512-MC79L15ACP are the best regulator choices. The 512-KA7915ATU and 512-KA7815AETU might be a second choice. They are TO-220 and handle more current, but they have 35V maximum input, where the above TO-92 parts have a maximum input of 40V. I actually couldn't find any fixed, TO-220 regulators with anything more than 35V max input, and the TO-92 regulators seemed to only go up to 40V. Anyways, I still recommend using the bigger opamp, but I suppose I can test these with a OPA134 just for the sake of testing. We also need to add a PDIP-8 socket to the BOM.

It cracks me up how "similar" some of the Chinese part stores can be. Case-in-point: mableaudio.com http://www.kadelectronics.com/

or maybe they are the quiet, sneaky type. or maybe not.

Hm, I hate to offer this suggestion at this point, as it's not really a layout issue, but there may be benefit from splitting up the CCSes for the diamond buffers from one per rail on the original schematic, to two per rail, each one being dedicated for leg of the two diamond buffers. The slight improvement would be the fact that you don't have to worry about matching transistors, or noise from mismatched transistors. The only addition would be two more LEDs and an extra 30K resistor to the schematic.

in all seriousness, how do you know that it's completly burned in? I could make a radical change for the better in another 700 hours, who knows?

depends who you know I guess I thought a certain someone was going to do a little groupy buy?

oh, didn't you check the new Audio Advisor? They're next to the Monster Cables... check em out.

ran out of hookup wire. then ran out of thermal grease. then ran out of those damn Molex KK crimp connectors. then was missing a stupid 555 timer to prototype a delay circuit I'm working on then ran out of #4 nuts then ordered some of the above

Caddock MK132! The H8 will fit, but you'll have to shop overseas.

Back in the day of playing with the Xono, I found the perfect low noise LEDs. They are a very strange package, they are leaded, but the leads aren't under the bulb.. think axial LED. They are super expensive (for LEDs), I think about $1.50+ each. I sent a bunch to Scott Wurcer and John Curl a while back, and one of them did some tests on a Audio Precision 1 and said they were about as good as you can get. I can see if I can find them again, but I'm not sure they'll fit very easily. I also have a bunch of transparent orange LEDs that are dead on 1.7V that I used in Kevin's other designs, but sadly they are no longer being made. Ok, I see C31A now. I think 220pF will work here, that's what I'll prototype at least. I'd like to revise my suggestion for R19/R20... at minimum a pad here for prototyping. Ideally, a way to connect to FB or to ground with minimal trace length. I think the MK3 are rather nice in fact, but you'll really have to change things around a lot due to availability. Just calculate things as ratios and you'll be fine.

I dunno why, but I really dig the look of the new Cardas XLR connectors: I'll probably order a pair soon

ok, so I'm in the middle of working on this and figured I'd post the issues I have so far with the BOM: It seems to me that the speced resistor will not fit in R35-R38. This location is 0.3" pitch and the 281 series have 10mm bodies. It would be nice to fit 9.0mm body at a very minimum. Is it possible to add a bit more room in here? For R47-R54 it would be nice to space them out a bit more, as I think there are some of us that would like a larger power rating there. I'd prefer a 15mm-16mm body resistor, with 0.80mm lead diameter. Seems very doable to me. For the LEDs, 2.0 Vf seems too much. I'd recommend 630-HLMP-D150. I see that C13 is the input filter cap, but where the heck is C31 connected and where does it go? I cannot seem to find it on the .sch. Is there any reason to add a jumper so that the R19, R20 node can be connected to FB? I didn't look at the traces, but would this be difficult? (I realize Kevin said to choose one or the other, but it seems that it would be a nice option to keep on the board especially during prototyping). I've converted some of the the values in the circuit to a more narrow E-series. In this way, all of the values will be available in PRP. I'll be sure to test, as it deviates from the schematic. This way there won't be mixing at matching and we have to only test one set of values. Ok, I'm going to finish looking at the other parts and hopefully will have this done tonite!

Sylvan Learning Center

8 tubes is the magic number I've found

no shit!

perhaps you can combine with the HF 10% off...