luvdunhill

Have you tried adding moar piezos to the PSU?

Ponzi scheme?

Buy a Singlepower, wait until it burns your house down, collect insurance money, then buy both.

Why use the 6CA7 again? I don't follow. not the PA42, but stumbled upon plenty of these for beans: http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/3583.pdf I was more curious on how it compares to the AC coupled amplifier.

might be worth it for you to hold one of those cool wires to your right temple and one to your left temple for a few seconds.

what about this one:

I've charged mine a couple times already. Works great for me, just need to raz them about the wierd-ass power connector on my Chinese DAP and see if they'll make good on providing "any" connector ")

I really love the upper register, so I wouldn't add a supertweeter. They are too hard to integrate well and I don't like the phasing complications they introduce. Most designs are pretty much flat to 20kHz and go around to 45Hz all at +-5dB or so. Case in point, the Alerions. Good enough for me.

here's the original I'd love to try a Lowter driver at some point, but they're amazingly expensive.

Is the GES the AC coupled version, or the DC coupled version? Also, how does the AC coupled circuit compare to the DC coupled circuit soundwise?

not even the TP-1?

what, does it have some sort of solder prevention circuit installed?

try adding a parallel resistor from the wiper (i.e. output of the pot) to ground see if that fixes the problem.

assuming it wasn't the crossover that went out does "blown" mean it doesn't work, or "blown" mean it's distorting.

Thanks Rodrigo I'll see if I can find someone else to help.

ok, in theory you may be correct, but why the hell would I want a player that does this to like 99% of my source material? I'm not going to get a whole new library of material that sounds better with my new shiny player... Also, I find it odd that this so-called "compression" seems to happen with the same DAC chips, over and over.

I don't attribute this to compression really, as I've done A/B comparisons and it's never been the source material.

Does the PCB contain a protection Zobel of sorts?

I dunno about that. They seem to retrieve detail that couldn't have possibly been there to start (I don't mean that technically, I mean that it *seems* that way), especially in the 4kHz+ range. I'm a detail-head don't get me wrong, but the a lot of these newer digital devices seem to pull it out of thin air (well, I suppose that's somewhat close to the truth). I've just confused myself re-reading this.... anyways, what I mean is the hyper-detail is not natural at all, in my opinion.

I have a question for the Spanish folk Do you ever place orders to Conrad.de? If so, would it be possible to add an item to an order? I cannot find a way to send to the US from their website.

Well, in my opinion the Japanese X386S (if you can find them, and.. really, they are big) are probably the equal of the Black Gate WKZ, in circuits that I've tried them (PSU). At this voltage, they are probably one of _the_ caps to beat. I dunno about the cathode bypass caps, as I avoid them where I can and where I cannot, I have pretty small voltage and have found polymer caps to work better than anything I've tried. I don't really have the experience that Doug does here, so I'm sure whatever he recommended would be worth trying. I will say if I had to just try something, since I don't have much experience with this amp, I'd start with a Mundorf M-Tube Cap 47uF/600V or 30uF/600V and bypass it with something like a Relcap RTX.

What's the general topology to need a 250V cathode bypass cap? My recommendation for the PSU would be the _Japanese_ made ASC (made by Shizuki) X386S capacitors, if you can get it to fit.

Would that be Barium Cobalt Nitrogen wrapping? Didn't check the periodic table, but I think that would be BaCoN

I prefer skipping the freezer and just going straight to the cryo chamber. duh.