luvdunhill

yeah, I played both a lot before really getting into DIY. Now, I don't have time. I'm probably at an average strength in Japan, i.e. can comfortably play in clubs with a proper handicap, well at least ~3 years ago I could... when I was in China over Christmas I was at the same strength as the weakest person in one of the nicer clubs in Beijing, after not playing for quite some time. Well, the story goes, I made a really stupid rationalization in my head. I knew I couldn't get any stronger at ether game without devoting a lot of time, and probably taking lessons from a pro. I figured instead, I'd pick up a hobby (audio) that took money, instead of time. That line of thought was total fail it turns out, once I got into DIY. Anyways, do we need a Shogi-Case thread? If so, 1.P-2f ...

how do these compare on a scale of 1 to 10 to the head-case shirts? Also, hour by hour burn in impressions are needed by a trusted "reviewer". I think it's only fair this person should get free shirts as well.

yup, indeed it is. I figured that was just the massive amount of heat generated from all the various projects we fired up, not blurry pics. This weekend once again made me realize how much cash I could save in buying fuses if I actually purchased a variac ...

getting ready for pabbi1 and swt61 to crash my place.. I couldn't really set foot in my office before and now it's looking respectable. Well, except for the working surfaces. Should be a fun time

Yup, that's not a normal C14 IEC inlet. It's a C18 inlet and therefore not earthed.

rather monaural

Yup, the thing works

I wonder what the first hit on Google for "SAA Equinox Voice" is Serves them well... I mean, really, a "Noir Version"?

really? he seems to be pretty knowledgeable in the DIY forums...

+1 I've made a final change to the BOM and plan on order parts today for the PoC boards. I changed from the Xicon 2/5/10ohm resistors to the Vishay/BC, as it seems that we are not going to get the extra space we need for the above resistors. The BC are a very compact package (1W for the 5/10 and 2W for the 2R), but are 5% resistors. I think these will work fine for the time being. Again, the BOM is at: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=69a573ab56

There's only two Texas de Brazil locations in IL, and only one Fogo de Ch

Doug: Theoretically, is there a lower bound on how low one can (reasonably) lower the impedance on either OTL or transformer-based designs (two different estimates, obviously... also, without resorting to a hybrid amplifier)? I agree with the comment that lower impedance is pretty much always better... I haven't heard a case where this isn't true, let's put it that way.

if you're expecting pre-orders, you better bring pictures of the new chassis at a minimum.

FTFY

that's not any red polish, that's conformal coating... ok, nail polish. Anyways, I guess I'm curious to know if: A.) Kevin's new all DHT amp uses HV opamps B.) If the older DC coupled version, perhaps with DHT output, is worth building Obviously, there's only one person who can answer this

Found some sockets for the Brown Burr op-amps. $27 each though ...

KBI for the win. Nice derailment!

If this is the case, just ensure you don't have too much gain in your system, then the steps will feel just right at lower volumes.

just use a hair dryer to shrink it back a bit or a heat gun if that doesn't work

right now it's more like: $300 in plane tickets $150 in hotels $100 in food 1,000 hour honey-do list when I return = not worth it

how does this guy have zero posts?

While this might be an issue in theory, I've found not so much in practice with the TVC or autoformer approaches. Just careful system matching is all that's really required. For some reason, coarser steps do not feel as course with the inductive approaches, I'm not sure why that is, but it seems to be the case to me at least.

I know most of the Muse Electronics devices have 1.99 Vrms output on the balanced outs. I was on a similar quest and settled on one of their players and am very happy with it.

oops, yes you are correct. I looked around at Mouser some more and decided to change to the PM series. I don't think we need much capacitance here really. I've decided on these to prototype with, and feel free to use larger ratings / larger sizes. The PM series is a very good performer by the way, and usually better than the HE series, if I recall. I'm choosing these values as there are equivalents in the Elna Silmic II line as well (my favorite electrolytic) 647-UPM1K221MHD6 647-UPM1V471MHD6 good catch. The most recent version of the board was changed to a 0.1" pitch TH cap instead of the SMD pad. good catch again. I think 2.5mm, 5mm, and 7.5mm will all fit. Seems that the cap you recommended should fit fine, I'll add it, unless anyone sees something we don't ... yeah, I was thinking about using a pair of the 0.47uF for the larger caps and a pair of the 0.01uF for the smaller caps. I think I'll change all four to be the Wima FKP2 and while I'm at it increase them to 100V caps. no, you've been super helpful! I very much appreciate the feedback, and it goes without saying that the rest of the group buy members do too! updated BOM: http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=69a573ab56