luvdunhill

Hm. That seems like a good deal, no? How do you think it would work as a TV for the kids or something...

does he know yet?

now that you mention it..... again..... this was what you were getting at many moons ago!

so, what's the back story? Some other model was released and then sold out and the price on the used market skyrocketed?

To be honest, the detachable thing is a mixed bag, is it adds a fair amount of weight while making the size of the car seat a lot bigger. Granted we have a smallish car (Subaru Forrester) and I'm above average height, but when when the infant carrier was rear facing, I could not fit in the front seat I think it's useful for about 3-6 months, but after that too annoying.

Cool, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to use a 9/64" bit on the flange where the devices attach and a 5/32" bit on the flange that attaches to the heat sinks. I think this should give enough wiggle room (one screw size difference), while not over sizing the hole around where the devices attach to ensure as much contact between the devices and the angle bracket.

We have the Graco Nautilus for my 3 year old and it works quite well. I do have a few minor gripes, as it's pretty hard to unlatch the buckle (which is good in some senses, as my eldest cannot do it) and I wish there was an even further away setting for the crotch buckle. Other than that, it's well made and quite adjustable / convertable and has survived lots of abuse. He likes the "secret" compartment in the side as well as the cup holder. I forget what other car seats we tried though before settling on this one

Is this the SR-Lambda?

Pappasitos!

needs moar ceramic

50? Quit dicking around man!

TOCOS 4PDT switch on/off/on, with short bat - $11.50

Hey guys, are you planning on tapping the side of the angle bracket that secures the output devices, or instead using a nut on the bottom of the PCB? I'm wondering if the latter will be able to get as much force on the devices. My bracket is around 0.2" thick at this point. I'm also looking at #6 screws to attach the bracket to the heat sink, as I'm not sure how many threads I'd get out of a #8 screw. Again, the base of my heat sink is 8mm and bracket is ~ 0.2" thick, so should I consider going up to #8?

I have a need for a small part at Percy that won't meet the minimum order of $25, if anyone is placing an order, perhaps they could throw something in for me

another interesting preamp design: Detailed write-up at: The Difference Engine Preamp Version 1.0 Exploring a 'secret' circuit called a differential. Article By Grey Rollins

meh. My Teclast T50 plays FLAC and is 1/1000th the size

Your Freight Total $5.65

no, they saw that it could hold a camera and accessories and assumed it would be that big.

Assuming a normal attenuation curve, which was what I wasn't sure about.

yes, their packaging is how do you say..... copious. Try ordering about 50 values of Dale resistors, and see what you end up with Last few times I've ordered stuff from Farnell via Newark, and they have payed shipping on this side of the pond for me (well, I payed that $15 surcharge I suppose). This time I selected USPS Priority, and I haven't gotten this shipping amount yet.

Newark is a strange beast. They care a nice intersection of Digikey and Mouser parts. The strange thing is, there are always "sale" items that are marked with a P. They isn't much rhyme or reason to it, for example the 1.00K resistors of a certain line may be heavily discounted, or a cable gland for a large multipart Amphenol assembly. I've never seen "sale" items at Mouser or Digikey... The neon lamps are a little trick I'm playing with to help ease the large turn on voltage that tubes see on start due to plate CCSes.. the idea is if you have two tubes connected together, and the first tube has a plate CCS, if it is not warmed up, all the current is forced into the second tubes grid until the first tube warms up... the bulb is placed across the grid / cathode of the second tube. It seems to work pretty well, the neon bulb is on at start-up then turns off as the plate CCS comes up. I'm going to try and play with a few different strike voltages and see if I can optimize things some more.

parts at Newark using 25% coupon (as if anyone cares really): NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR LM317HVT/NOPB NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR LM329DZ/NOPB VISHAY GENERAL SEMICONDUCTOR 1N4001GP-E3/1 VISHAY SEMICONDUCTOR 1N4733A-TR CADDOCK MK132V-200K-1% AVAGO TECHNOLOGIES HLMP-D150 3M 929952-10 Jumper FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR TIP50 MULTICOMP MC08030000 Neon Lamp; MULTICOMP MC08020000 Neon Lamp; MULTICOMP MC08310015 Neon Lamp; BOURNS 3296W-1-501LF VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW22K00J VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW18K00J VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW16K00J VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW20K00J

cool! how does the left/right matching work, or do you mean it has better channel matching than most DAPs? and is there some sort of gain switch?

I'd recommend cryoing the clay first to realign the structures