luvdunhill

I got the code working to measure the platter speed! The sensor is still wonky - maybe I need to build a shroud around it.. Maybe I just built a ghost sensor! That would explain a lot... maybe this is the newest fad in audio accessories

The optical based sensor seems much more fiddly compared to the magnet. It’s influenced by ambient light (for example record needs to be on the platter) and I am using a small craft mirror on the platter but not sure if just a white dot would work better? The part is VNCT2020. IMG_2400.MOV

That’s pretty special.

Off topic - but I am also working on a battery controller. Spent an embarrassing amount of time troubleshooting and replacing parts to find out that I had incorrectly labeled the “charging” and “error” LEDs

It looks like you wouldn’t have an issue with the double thickness but would have to put a cutout if you wanted to keep parts on both sides of the sub-assembly. I also don’t have any idea how thin of a PCB you can go with and have enough plating on the castellations...

What about a castellated sub board with the smaller parts and the USB connector?

Splicing up some new fancy blocks for the weekend

Do you typically stop the platter before you change records?

It’s fun getting to know a new setup. I don’t have the VPI really dialed in yet, but already don’t like the threaded clamp. I am trying just a heavier weight that places over the threaded spindle. I also don’t know why VPI didn’t better match up these foam discs when adapting their newest footers to older designs. I think I will have a go at designing a replacement.

Yes, that’s an option. I see Analogue Seduction wants 276£ for one (@swt61 the 309 doesn’t use the old style bayonet connection, in fact due to the offset angle the 309, 310 and 312 aren’t compatible with each other) and I am wondering if that’s close to what SME will charge..

With a bit of rigging, look what’s making music:

Woo... finally found a SME 309. Now I need an extra head-shell that isn’t a zillion dollars.

I think I am going to try to use a reflective sensor - looking at Vishay VCNT2020. I need a mirror or similar, assuming the acrylic platter won’t be IR reflective. Maybe a foil sticker? http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2614502.pdf added a comparator to the board to adjust the sensitivity

Maybe just buy the house as well - will solve your space problems.

Ok, tach seems to be working - enough done today where I am going to try and rig up a tonearm and do some listening before I go back to working on the software for the controller IMG_2369.MOV

Got the rear panel of the controller populated and rigged it up and we have a revolution! The iPhone camera shutter must be faster than my display refresh

Hah, no worries. Only one more for tonite - 8-pin to TRS (tachometer) and 5-pin (motor pod). Been a long while since I soldered a TRS plug.. really like these Switchcraft EN3 plugs - use them on all my umbilical cables now.

Here is part of the controller - a battery charger circuit named after Zeus’ favorite projectile. Apparently I can’t center the white box on the side where the circuit notes go, but otherwise looks pretty slick - about the size of a matchbox. Won’t be solar powered, as the LT3652 datasheet might suggest though the stacked TH and SMD connectors are from JST.

Cool - hope you enjoy it!

Some pics of the motor housing restoration / upgrade, as everything got back from the polisher today (excuse the fingerprints). My previous DIY motor housings have just had a top plate with the motor attached. This one actually clamps the motor against a piece of sorbothane sheeting which resulted in a lot less noise at the platter. Now I need to work on the motor controller

I listened to the first side again this morning and cranked it up - I couldn’t get anything really to break down, it sounded great with huge dynamic swings.

Heh, this record is a bit off kilter... IMG_2346.MOV

Interesting - yeah it has a lot of dynamic range. Same phono stage as well?

I know right? You should hear her version of Bach’s Air on the G String!