luvdunhill
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Everything posted by luvdunhill
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“The ass end of this boat is so big” 😅
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That’s awesome! We ended up getting stuck out on the cat today. We were in a spot of the lake where it was too narrow to tack effectively (the cat just doesn’t have the upwind performance of a monohull) and gain ground upwind.. the wind was about 10 mph straight down the middle with cliffs on each side. We got rescued by a more experienced sailor on a small john boat who said we were doomed to never get back up the lake. Heh.
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At that point probably just best to use a hex head bolt and counter sink it…
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Would the countersink diameter be say 3/8” - just enough to be able to get the bulk of the the square piece in? Yeah, I just need probably 4 or 5 holes.
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I am working on my sailboat motor attachment and am using some 5/16” carriage bolts in the end of the transom so the heads are flush. The material will be something called Starboard, which is a marine HDPE plastic. It will be two 3/4” sheets put together. I am wondering how much material I need to make sure the square part of the bolts catch in the material? Should I just drill 5/16” or go 3/8”? The square part is .32” * .32” so the long diagonal of the square is .45”.
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Here are the feet - there isn’t enough travel in them I think. I probably need another solution than the motor mount (male stud, rubber, male stud - which goes into the aluminum line footer and the shiny round circle thing on the top) idea which is stock for these VPI tables. There is a slight gap on purpose to suspect the table so it’s just decoupled via the rubber… the wood is just attached via glue dots to the underside of the plinth to hide the motor mounts.
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I am working on adding some walnut footers, which I almost assuredly mis-measured.
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Probably wing pins for kids first flight.
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Rate their setup. Open Baffle?
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I have a defective driver IMG_2569.MOV
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Headphonus Supremer?
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A bit of cart swapping to validate the arm board design. It has enough travel in the slots to work with the elusive DL-103PRO
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Ok, did the bake off. [VPI mode=on]This REL is awful. It’s so bad that I am going to request a RMA. What was I thinking buying a 3D printed speaker? Bob Carver wins.[/VPI]
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Washed the sails for the Laser and don’t think they will last much longer. Have one tear I have to patch and a batten pocket that is loosing its stitching. No clue if there is even a local sailmaker. I am guessing they are 20 years old, original to the boat.
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Finished up the stairs!
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I used the 1101 and planning on 3011 for the second coat.
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Got the first coat of Osmo on these stairs - before, during and after…
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It goes in here - I just not sure what Lowthers to go with? anyone tried the Fugoo speakers? Something like that which ran off sdcard memory would be pretty sweet..
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Cleaned up the boat a bit and re-epoxied the mast (comp-tip). Sadly McMaster-Care might have messed up my order (a first!) and I am missing two stainless steel bolts.. Barkeepers Friend worked quite well on the trampolines. I used 3M Perfect-It for both the anti-slip and sides - the Medium cut didn’t mess with the decals. Waiting for my new TX numbers to arrive in the mail..
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I was always more of Jane Jetson type of guy.
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Risky click?
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So far, I really prefer the Sunfire. I am also dealing with a small hum due to the Rel sub being on a different circuit that the HT (perhaps combined with a very long cable run which I am using Jensen transformers over “ethernet” cable - CI-RJ2R). I am going to try this Air thing out at the main TV (which uses the Sunfire) and if works well might try with the HT.
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Nice work Al! You almost could fit a ping-pong table in all that empty space!
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No time to finish the armboard, because it was the time for truth! Will it fit and can I get the arm aligned. Well I think so! The SME setup process is pretty complicated - lots of tiny judgments and adjustments needed but the engineering behind the arm is just wonderful! I am almost at the top of the height adjustment - so probably needed a little more height on the board. I would say it has about 1/8” left of adjustment room - I guess useful for those future 300g releases?
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It fits! Well at least the arm does it slides nicely in the slot. The trick is the table is made for a 10.5” arm and putting a 9” arm on it. That made for some tricky math. I do need to make a change to the right angle DIN connector to make it a more favorable mating angle.. then hope it clears the bottom of the plinth. 🤞 is there some software that you can scan a diagram and and make very precise measurements? I transcribed this with a pair of calipers and a angle finder thing. It would be nicer to do that in the future with a few point and click operations
