mdr30

Plural form of "tomat", Swedish. Produce of Italy, one of the components used in this build of Greek extraction. Rub fish with juice of lemon. Cut onion in thin slices. Cut tomatoes in chunks, save the juice. Chop parsley, peel garlic. Fry onion for a few minutes, stir. Add tomatoes with juice, press garlic, add parsley, oregano, 1 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Put half the tomato stir in casserole, put fish on top, add the rest of the tomato stir. Add wine. Bake in oven. I've used cod and salmon successfully, original recipe I guess calls for whatever the Mediterranean Sea brings.

Nice! Heat sinks ready for a T-bone steak? I prefer rare.

"Cloud nine" (highest bliss) is not referred to in non-English speaking countries, where as "Seventh heaven" (Aristoteles) is more widely used in different vernaculars; "Sjunde himlen" where I live. Surely something similar in Italian. A classic mix-up. It's difficult to grade pleasure, it comes in many forms. My most recent sonic one is a renovated SR-X Pro, around 200 bucks in all. I find it hard to believe this Spirit thing provides 50 times more "bliss", but I'm open to new delights. Any technical information about the drivers?

Joamat's build reminded me of some problems with balance and setoff on my own Dynahi. I adjusted the amp a couple a months ago, a bit tricky with DC fluctuating, but got numbers down to 3-15 mV with servo in, depending on volume pot position. However, with headphones connected, DC between hot and cold is 50-80 mV. Anyone got theories why this is?

It's my favourite amp for dynamic headphones, double mono like yours with psu in a separate box. Sounds so good I haven't even bothered to replace the THAT340 with JFETs.

Opened up a SRD7-SB to see if it needed any updates. Looks neat and tidy, and at least no electrolytics to replace. Is there anything I should consider before it's put into action?

Late to the party, but here goes. Lured a nice small case off of MLA for a cheap penny, wanted a compact CFA (SE). Took some time for my slow mind to figure out how to best use the space in three dimensions, but I found a solution that works fine so far, if you're planning something similar. No interfering leads or unwanted nearness of critical components, and bias can be set without problem. In reality, I'm surprised it turned out quite airy and spacious, considering the limitations. Note the Müller Rhombus transformer device ("Konzept Raute"). This romboid plate interacts wit the circular toroid shape and the electromagnetic waves are forced through the four holes in an endless loop in this electronically confined space, and thus traps all hum in an existant/nonexistant void. This amp is noise and hum free. I'm particulary happy with the volume control, a 24-position Swiss Elma switch that's been lying in a drawer for 35 years. 15K (why not?), shunt coupled and making as little contribution to the signal as possible. I think this plays a part in the clean, revealing sound of the CFA design. The odd resistor out is in the position I mostly listen to, a hand selected Syldavian military plutonium component (0,01%) from 1953, made in a numbered series of three of each value (I own the third one as well) and these days sold on ebay in Hong Kong for not less than $1200, if available at all (only one for sale during the last nine years). Set the bias at first to 150mA, it sank to 135 after some time, which was to be expected. Decided too raise it (why not?) to 200mA. Put the lid on and after three hours it was stable at 175mA after a last fine-tuning. Gets warm, but not too hot. Like all successful, completed builds it sounds wonderful , but if that lasts only time will tell. If so, I may be tempted to follow up with a CFA3.

So, finally time to replace the cable of my 007. Birgir and others have probably demonstrated this before, but I thought I'd show some pics for those who, like me, haven't done it before (and, sooner or later it will be necessary). Off with pads and front plate, and the nylon piece covering solder terminals. Solderer's best friend: electrical tape. Some sacrifices necessary too - had to buy and eat a bar of chocolate for the cardboard to protect driver from hot solder. New cable in place. Also adjusted the headband elastic and put on the pads correctly, wasn't done before. Now the 007 sits tight on my head, sounds better and is more comfortable. Promised myself to fix the 007 when I finished my Carbon, so here goes. Build without major problems. MLA brought his variac for startup, and there were high voltages on the outputs. My mistake, had missed to solder one leg of a PZTA56, hanging in air. Fixed that and it works fine. Wanted to keep it simple and clean. Might add a LED when I can afford it.

Anyone order the boards? I'd be interested in a pair.

"City of Tiny Lites". Tell us the truth: 1.7 or 2.1? Make sure the salty Kattegatt sea air doesn't corrode the copper.

A listen now and then might be advantageous. Aren't the bottles supposed to be turned every year or so? About to replace the cable of the 007 when I've got the Carbon together. Gamma will do service meanwhile. Thinking of moving the drivers to a SR-X MkIII, but don't know if it's worth the effort. On-ear not so comfortable. If the Carbon fulfills expectations the headphone to the right behind may be the next step.

Don't buy a lottery ticket this month, Joachim. Is the membrane ripped, or is it only surface damage? If the latter, the driver may reform. And you can always send it back for repair, then you'll have a mint headphone again (even if the cost hurts). Reminds me to be extra careful when I change cable on the 007, to be done when my Carbon is finished. Something to look forward to.

Finally completed my Dynahi, an on/off project (like some of them) for five years. Bought the set of boards from Samsie in December 2015, so I thought I'd just let him know that they eventually came of use! Turned out to be a relatively uncomplicated build, except for a couple of resistors around the THAT340 with too many zeros, discovered by MLA. Also a problem with the -30V side on one of the PSUs. Turned out to be a malfunctioning rectifier. A BC556 popped, but the supply worked once replaced. For a week or so, then the 556 popped again. After the third time I scratched my head, but some sparks from one of the surrounding caps told me it had taken some beating from the faulty rectifier. Replaced that and the DN2540 and now it has played without incidents for a couple of weeks. Sounds very nice and has become my go-to-amp, with some competition from a KSA5 I took over from MLA recently. Spoiled for choice.