jose

Thanks, I finished my amp and I used Wima caps. Dr. Gilmore said on other thread: "...evidently no amp is complete without some wima's." Now I ´m waiting the trafos and I need decide if I use the DN2540 or 10M90S in the CS. While I can´t do nothing.

Guys I'm finishing the amp and I want to do the last update that Jim mentioned on the "SRX Revisited" thread; change the top MOSFET in that current source from a DN2540 to a 10M90S. Can I change them directly on our PCB? I was seeing the schematic/ PCB layout and I think that it´s OK so I don´t need change or move the10M90S pins, but I would like are sure before. Another stupid question, Are the quality of the 0.22/1kvolt critical? I have wimas (MKP) now but I don´t rule out changing them for Mundorf or other "audio grade" caps if this is necessary. I remenber that Jim used a kind of "audio grade" cap in her SRX. Thanks

yes it's my mtb. No, no Brent. It is a humble Focus aluminum of 2013. I need to do a new pic because I'm trying on a cheap telescopic seatpost. If I think that is a goo idea, i would buy a RS Reverb.

Today I changed brake pads ...

Thanks Jim

Thanks guys. I have boards (amp+ psu) too but I will use a BH PSU. When I finish the PSU, I´ll start with the amp board but before I would like to know if the amp have problems or if I need to change resistors values for example...

Your PSU for example... I only know two amps that are still working and I would like to know if other guys are working on his srx´s. Probably I will start my SRX for christmas.

Is there any progress?

Somewhere in Gran Canaria...

Thanks!!! I have two SS relays so I need sometime for a test.

My last "walk"

Thanks guys. Yes I can use those options but on my Carbon, Arduino controls the input selector and the frontal lights too. I was reading the Audioxpress article and it´s very interesting but I am not sure. What is a Optical Relay? references? Thanks

I´m thinking about use a relé for cut the AC from IEC to toroid on my Carbon. This relé is connecting via Arduino at two LM35DT on the heatsinks. If the temperature is very high, Arduino send a signal to relé and this will cut the current for safety. I´m not sure what kind of relé is the best opción. I´m thinking on a solid state relé but a friend of mine said that this not a good idea because this relé use a triac and can introduce noise on the current. What do you thing?

Boards received!!!! Thanks

Paid Sorenb. Thanks

[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] Oh.... someone stole my headbar basked and my ring !!!!!! Jajajaja

ta ta ta chan!!!!!! Dura Ace 9000 (50/34) is 88 grams lighter than Ultegra 6800 (52/36) My next step: a pair of DT Swiss RS28 SPLine

Thanks Sorenb

i'm guilty... I bought this beautify

Thanks guys. I don´t know if my Ultegra Di2 will have problems with the different rings and the ramps between them. My ideal will be 52/34 but this is the problem: The 52 ring doesn't like the 34 ring. The price of an Ultegra 6800 (50/34) is around 155€ and the Dura Ace 9000 (50/34) is 344€. Is a big difference. I need time for thinking about this.

Thanks. It´s the problem of the Shimano bottom bracket. You can´t change the ring. You can change the rings but only with certain combinations for example, you can´t put a 34 with a 52. On my case, if I buy the dura-ace 9000 I will have two bottom bracket (DA 32/50 and Ultegra 36/52) and I would change. (Change the bottom bracket no the rings)

Guys, I´m thinking change my Ultegra 6800 36/52 by a Dura-Ace 9000 34/50. Yes, I know that the new Dura-Ace is here, and the ultegra versión is more cheaper but 9000 versión has a good price now and I need change... my 36/52 is great for flat stages or médium mountain but here we have steep ramps and sometimes I suffer a lot with this development. (rear I used a ultegra 11/32) Ok, I know that a 36/52 with 11/32 is "similar" to 34/50 with 11/28 but the "feeling" on long mountain pass is very, very different. What do you think?

A stupid thing... or not. If the problem is the floor connector, Why you don´t use a thermal silicone (same that we used between headsink and trasistors) but between the connector and the pcb? You only need to make the holes on the silicone.

No problem Soren. I bought the Kemet on Mouser at 30€/ea . Less than that is a fantastic price.

Ok, I know my amps are not very pretty , but I like the simple front. I made the 20mA versión so it need a big heatsinks