jose

I´m listening to my LCD2 and I´m agreement with your appreciations. I wonder if this amplifier will be more powerful than the Dynahi Bal.Did you notice any difference between 180mA and 200mA?

The side that broke is the one that is in contact with R10. Could this be the cause?

I have several tester but this is the most practical and simple for me that I am a beginner . I use it for almost all our projects.

yes, only matched P~P and N~N

I measured one of my That340.

Cold start with matched sand (at 2%) and led's, B= 23,33 Vdc, Bias around 150mVolt (drift a little); I have 35mVolt on both channels (offset). This is very stable, no drift. After 30 minutes, offset is 28mVolt and 29mVolt. Probably with a closed matched the offset can be around 0mvolt. I'm using a Toroidy audio spec. (180VA with 24vAC x2 sec.) I haven't issues with temperature on amp. This afternoon I'll start other two channels but I think that the GRLV will need heatsink in her chassis.

R9. When I removed the resistance I kept a piece of it in the pliers. I'm not sure if this is the cause of the problem or it was the tantalum condenser. The Zeners were fine and R10 also seemed to be correct.

First start... and with music!!! Thanks Dr. Gilmore!!!!

I´m sure that Opa is OK,I have changed it three or four times. Sorenb, yes I measure -3.23volt across R9 and 10V across R10. I was work on this área and I changed R9, R10, 1N914 diodes and C3. I´m not sure but I found this: Probably has nothing to do but who knows... I measured C3 and it´s 9,8uF but I changed it for other. Finally: Thanks for your help and patience boys

Thanks boys for replies. Yes, I use the ver. 0.44 so + is in front. I have before regulation -33Vdc. Maybe I can be wrong but I think that the bridge is OK but... (By the way, Pars, thanks for the diode board) Yesterday I was checking and cleaning up some things; 1. R9 and R10 it´s ok (2k and 1.5K). Identical values on both sides 2. I changed Q2,Q10,Q13,Q11, Q5 (and D6 for try something) With the same result. -13,23volt. 3. I move trimpot (100K) but I haven´t any variation The first difference that I find between both rails is at the anode D6 (-14,9volt) and D4 (+15,64volt). 4. Volt in Pin2 and Pin3 (OPA134) is -10volt This afternoon I will concentrate on the area of Q12, 1N914 and Trimpot.

Before regulation I have 33 volt on both sides and 10v on pins 2 and 3. What do you think?

Sorry guys. Yesterday I finished my second GRLV ready for 23,3volt but I have a problem. Rail + is ok with +23,37volt. but negative I only have -13,23volt. I have some measures: I changed Q10 because I thought that it´s wrong but with a new Ksp42 I have the same values. The Led´s shine in the same way. I do not know what is wrong. I suspect 15031 or 21193 but I'm not sure. Can you give me any recommendation? Thanks... and happy new year !!!!

Megadeth "Countdown to Extinction" MFSL cd

Black Label Society... Zakk power !!!!

Santa was here...

happy Birthday !

I´ll probe with one and two PSU´s. The amperage of the r-core is small (25volt@1A x 2) so I do not know if one can supply enough voltage to all four channels. For other hand, I have toroids with secondaries 30volt@3A x2 that I guess can use if it's necessary.

While I wait trafos for my CFA today I was playing with my Pass M2 HA prototype.

Emerson, Lake and Palmer "Trilogy" remastered by MFSL.

I want to buy some SR-007A but it looks like a lottery.

Thanks guys!

Thanks Pars! Yes I use an input selector SE and Bal with a little Psu. I like use this detail on my amps because I have unbal and bal sources.

My dynalo

Can I change that340 or 2sk170/2sj74 for ksa992/ksc1845 or ksc1815/ksa1015? I need to do an order on Mouser, so I can add this fets on my order.

I like Nichi KW... but really, you can put anyone