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Everything posted by GrindingThud
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Very nice! I'm curious, after matching, what was your DC offset without the servo in?
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Yum!
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This little guy works great: http://www.lowes.com/pd_215726-20097-9302011_0__?productId=3339728&Ntt=shop+vac&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dshop%2Bvac&facetInfo= I use it to suck the bilge of my boat dry after races and other wet use. Small, easy to handle, and great suck. As for Hvac overflow. You should have two pipes. One from the condenser inside the unit to the outside world. If it gets plugged or the unit freezes up, water overflows to the pan. Pan should have a drain also. Use compressed air to blow out the clogged lines. Your garden hose from below should work also....just don't overflow back into the house. Orange is just mold goop....no biggie. A little bleach will tame that. The main thing is to make sure the heat exchanger pan drain is clear....it's most likely clogged at the trap at the air handler. DO NOT use drain cleaner...it will eat the aluminum heat exchanger.
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Doh
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The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.
GrindingThud replied to Knuckledragger's topic in Miscellaneous
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That is good news! Now stop probing and get to listening.
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Before you pull it apart, check the diodes at the input to the op amp (1N914 between the heat sinks). There are a number of resistors between your accidental short and the input/output. I doubt you fried a transistor. The diodes however.....zap, straight from V- to ground. I bet you fried that. Worth a look. Also, listen to it......scab some earbuds on it and hook up a sleazy input source.....you'll know if it's broke.
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I'd push the rails to +/- 35 before going balanced. If a pair ever showed up at a meet we could bridge them.
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I think fishski13 had some links earlier to photos of a single chassis build he did....could see a lot of the wiring. http://s23.photobucket.com/user/fishski13/media/012_zpsdfd46a29.jpg.html I can't believe you're not listening to it yet with just alligator clips. AC safety ground tied to enclosure - yepSignal input ground tied to enclosure through ground loop breaker (0.1uF X/Y-rated cap in parallel with 10 ohm 5W resistor)? - I floated mineInput RCA jacks isolated from enclosure - yepVolume pot tied to enclosure? - only by the mounting shaft on my ALPSOutput jack isolated from enclosure - yepOutput ground connected only to output jack, never connected to enclosure - yepDoes the 0V line from the PSU just float, or is it tied to the enclosure through a ground loop breaker? If not floating, can 0V line from PSU and input signal ground be tied to enclosure through the same ground loop breaker? - mine made noise when floatedShould output ground on the output jack be tied to the output ground on the amp board, or go directly back to the 0V line from the PSU? - I used the amp board, I've seen the other way like in the beta22...I think fishski13 did it that way.
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PSU works fine with nothing attached. If it is the old one with early board runs....make sure you have the grounding error fixed discussed earlier in the thread.
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It took me quite a bit of tweaking to get my WA3 quiet.....then I dumped current sources in the follower.
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Fabricated unobtanium brake line on my 03 Marquis...
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Spacey
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Holy shit....that did not take long: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KRELL-ksa5-Class-A-headphone-amplifier-kit-/161267038245?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item258c43b825 Looks like it's missing half the caps and squished a PS on the board too...... My gut says what a turd, but curious to hear it.
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This is it: http://www.skbcases.com/industrial/products/prod-detail.php?id=439#.UzhUJSe9KSM http://www.skbcases.com/music/products/proddetail.php?id=440&c=105&o=&s=78
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Schwoop!
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jeebus, that makes me want one.
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The original transformer is 27VAC. After rectification and regulation you get 22VDC. I went with that 115/24....my wall voltage is 120...so I get 25 out of it (close enough) before the diodes and about 35 peak after...which gets regulated to 22.