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It would be interesting to see builds from a voltage/biasing R value/heat perspective including whether using onboard vs. external regs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Astro sent the .dwg file for the case to me, seeing if I can post it here... it looks like it worked. I don't have autocad or anything else on my Mac to open it (suggestions welcome). Dynalo.dwg.zip

I think luvdunhill has sourced pins for some Stax jacks before as well. Can’t remember where though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quoted the wrong post above. This person sounds like they know what they are doing in soldering packages like this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had the wrong post linked in my previous reply. This person sounds like they know what they are gliding with packages like the regulators use... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, regarding regulators, it would seem that the Amb-style externals with heatsink (U5, U7) would have a thermal advantage over on-board mounting (U2, U3) of these? Or is this an incorrect assumption for those of you who have built one or more of these?

Interesting, and sorry to chop out your casing pics I was looking at the KSC/KSA, then saw reference to the KSA1015 being the actual complement to the KSC1815. Then it dawned on me... are these the same as the Toshiba 2SA1015/2SC1815 that Kevin used to use in the Dynalo? If so, I've got some of these and may try them. The KSC1815 appears to be problematic to get in the same grade as the 992 which would make matching nearly impossible.

Ahh, good to know. I'll take them off my list then. I wonder if places like Handmade Electronics, etc. are still selling the older production?

Check this post:

Can you run an iron w/small tip along the pins, maybe adding solder? Clean the iron good then run it along again. Repeat as necessary until no more bridges? That would be easier without the two or three caps in place, but probably still doable. Have you got decent magnification?

RIP Pat DiNizio of The Smithereens. Way too young at 62. Always liked their stuff, might have to hunt some of it down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Foo foo = audiophool Semi in this case because Elma Silmics are good caps (Nelson Pass seems to like them), std parts places like Mouser carry them, etc. They are only 85C rated, unlike the Panas and Nichicon which are 105C. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Question: if someone wanted to use this both with normal sources, and with a source with digital volume control, is turning the pot all the way up when your source has volume equivalent to not having the pot in the amp? Or is it better to short the pot out (wiper to input)? It would seem that the wiper to input resistance would be 0 ohms or close with the pot all the way. Of course real world doesn’t always match theory Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I personally like Panasonic... FM or FR. If you want to go semi foo foo, use Elma Silmic II. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d be interested in that as well Astro (dwg and seller info). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those look pretty sweet Marc! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I try to match complementary pairs, but going from N to P (both BJT and JFETs) usually doesn't match very well. It depends on the devices.

Really good news Jacob!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Matching never hurts... not sure that they need to be though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried this myself yesterday, though I bent the leg on the trimpot and soldered a jumper wire to it, so nothing in pin 5 of the dip socket. Seems to work fine, offset drifts some but nothing bad at all, probably in the +/- 3-4mV range while I was watching it. Listened to a cd with protection circuit in place and no issues. BTW, Kevin, this is a very very nice amp! Congrats! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would guess this is because he lays out the sense lines on the board going right to the rails on the phono section. I would think if you ran not only V+ and gnd, but also both sense lines separately, having the reg onboard wouldn't make a difference (shunt PSU only). The GRLV is extremely low noise (see thread for screen room measurements), so I am hoping that just using GRLV (or dual mono) will be as low noise, maybe lower, than the shunts are. I did lay out his shunt on a separate board which would fit just like his single board, but have very short jumpers to the phono board, in case I think I am wrong.

Would it be a better idea to use the LSK489 (and LSJ689 for those needing 2SJ109)? And BTW, does anyone actually have the LSJ689 in stock?

Here is an updated spice file per Kevin's latest schematic (pls check). Still shows -51mV without the opamp. I guess the current mirrors purpose is just to take the servo out of the audio signal path, and not about offset without the servo? CFP2 1.10.zip