John, those should be fine. Comparing the datasheets, it appears that thermal performance has decreased ( or been reevaluated), but electrically the same.
Regarding the Dynalo, yes, they do seem to drift more (and act like the servo isn't working). IIRC, even the full size ones do this.
I assume that the values shown are mV? Also, when you say bias, I assume you mean offset?
The first place I would start would be to measure the bias voltage across all of the 20R resistors, noting any variances. I would then do a comparison of the biasing circuits (consult the schematic) and go from there. It can be difficult to spot solder bridges on these, so checking resistance across all resistors (power off) might show you something. I know I had a resistor shorted that looked fine.
Yeah, that would work, but unfortunately they seem to have discontinued Fredrik. They do have some others that look suitable, if I can just find them in stock at one of the 2 Chicago Ikea stores.
Thanks though!
^ I didn't find mine to be that hard to work on, though I was pissed when I had to swap the SSD for the HD spots in order to keep it from buzzing (IIRC). But $60 for a 512Gb SSD would be worth it to avoid the fun.
Thinking about doing one of these, as I need SPDIF. Any thoughts?
https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/dummies-guide-to-pi2aes-throw-away-your-pc-or-laptop.8878/
I would terminate with a 4-pin XLR myself. You can always build a 4-pin XLR->1/4" phono adapter cable and use it with unbalanced amps, which is what I do with my DynaFET. I don't use portable amps anymore though, so the 4.4mm connector isn't useful for me. Plus, they are difficult to find, particularly a good chassis jack.
Not sure Mikey. I'm not really up on any of the current cabling guys like Moon Audio (see some hits for these phones with Silver Dragon cables on them). It would be nice if AT said what they would or could do before you sent them in
From the pic, it looks like it is just heatshrink that is splitting, but as you say, getting access to a free end to replace it is problematic unless you can remove the cable at the headphone end.
The voltage selector switches I normally see used are C&K, mouser pn 611-V80212MS02Q. Other flavors available; this one is the straight PC mount version.