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Happy Merry Birthday Ric!

Happy Birthday Ken!

Has any one of you done something like this, accommodating a pair of RCAs and a pair of XLRs, with the appropriate switching for these? I know I'll get told to just use the Neutrik or whatever RCA->XLR adapters for this, but I was thinking about doing up a PCB with a pair of something like the Neutrik NC3MAV/FAV and a pair of RCAs. Has anyone ever used the vertical Vampire RCAs (pcb2f/s)? They don't list any dimensions or PCB layout for these, but just wondering height-wise if these could work well? I had thought I would probably use relay switching instead of a mechanical switch, as the 4PDT are a PITA to wire up, but I suppose just going into a board with connectorization could make things more palatable. Thanks for your thoughts, or if you have seen anything like this around.

Oh, it will have to sound more "open"

For the Carbon I am building, the user would like to be able to bypass the volume pot, but would like it switchable for when the source doesn't have a volume control. I had initially told him no problem, this will be easy. The more I thought about it, I realized it isn't quite as easy as I had surmised. Simply shorting the input to the output (wiper) would still result in potentially bad things depending upon where the pot was in its rotation. Since I had already done the pot adapter boards for the gb awhile ago, I started with one of those for pcb layout (the pot I am going to use is a TKD CP2500 4 channel). My initial thought was to take the pot completely out of the circuit by switching both the input and the output (wiper) out? Or would it be sufficient to only switch the output (wiper) out? I had decided to use a relay approach since switching both out would require an 8PDT switch which would be a nightmare to wire up, and the cheapest one that Mouser stocks is $600.

Happy Birthday!

Sorry, was thinking GRHV...

Isn't the use of 450V caps pushing it with respect to your voltages? Your inputs are 493Vac, and your output is 453Vdc? I would think that 550V caps would be mandatory for your use case.

I had identified Hirose and a TE/AMP parts that were high voltage and used keyed connectors. I haven't installed these yet (and haven't tested the amp or PSUs), but one of these would definitely fit the board. The other seems too big. I'll recheck and let you know which one fits. 571-1-178128-5 TE/AMP 798-DF5A-5S-5C Hirose

Since this thread has kinda morphed into a finishing thread, I thought I would ask this here. I wanted to finish a piece of mdf similarly to audio equipment shelving that you see, such as the shelved in my Salamander Synergy. Black, satin preferably. Would I just use paint (enamel? or?) to do that, or is there something better to use? Non-spray preferable, but if spray is the best way, I could perhaps deal with it.

What Phoenix connectors are those you are using? They look nice (though I'm still not a fan of the screw down terminal blocks). However, what is the voltage rating on those?

10K pot on that amp, even with the JFET input, is fine. With JFET, yes you could go higher, though I would never use 100K. As for bypassing the pot, I would just jumper it and leave it alone. No need for the 10K resistors in place of the pot.

RIP Chuck... though I agree (and hadn't been aware) that discrimination as above always taints things

Happy Birthday Todd!

So what kind of record cleaners do you guys use these days? I still have a Disc Doctor manual system, but something a bit easier to use would be nice...

My oldest son took a job as a rep and is traveling. He needs a new laptop and is looking at the 13" MBP M1. Does he really need 16Gb RAM? He was looking at an 8Gb/512G SSD model. Also, would a new Air be just as good for him?

$1500 is the sale price?

Wasn't sure where to put this. New desoldering tool I saw mentioned on diyaudio. These are hollow SS rods that you use for desoldering thru-hole components and clearing out the hole. Solder won't stick to them. I could have really used something like this for the thru-hole caps on dynalo minis with the 3oz. copper. I had a real hard time even using a hot air station AND my Hakko with a wide tip. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JF9BJCY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Happy Birthday Bryan!!

Where's the forklift? I know, don't give Jeff ideas...

x4

I was also going to ask where you buy your parts from. Ebay and aliexpress, etc. are known bastions of fakes. BTW, Richardson RFPD (a division of Arrow) has the c2m1000170d (for $4.66 each) and ships from Hong Kong (at least mine did).

Rethinking this after looking at the Loki more. It seems to be well done for an analog EQ. Though I don't know if the issues I had with the HE 4XX could be fixed via EQ (thin sound). The EQ would help though, but not enough for me to have kept them.

Happy Birthday JP!

From my experience with my departed HE 4XX, they need it. Much prefer my modded T50RPs (Mk I). If you need to EQ phones, my thought has always been you have the wrong phones...