Pars

Thanks for replying. Very clever use of the grommet strips. Once you brought them up, I recall seeing these used for grommet holes. I would have never thought of using them for this purpose. Well, maybe if I had some on hand, a light bulb would have gone on...

I had looked at this closer awhile back, and noticed what looks like a wire loom or separator down on the floor of the amp by the output jacks, to hold the output lines in order. Is this something that you made, or is commercially available? I did a quick search at Mouser but didn't turn up anything like this. Thanks!

Happy Birthday Grahame! And what Steve said

RIP Pat DiGiacomo (aka Jocko Homo), passed away Nov. 4th. Good guy, knowledgeable engineer, but came off as being a bit cranky https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/in-memoriam/362564-rip-jocko.html

Doing a google search (which I assume you have done ad nauseum), revealed an Audio Karma thread which might be of assistance: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cd-player-belts.345514/ http://www.kenselectronics.com/lists/belts.htm

Last night:

This project on diyaudio implementing a Muse chip for analog volume control might be of interest to you: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/322983-muses-volume.html

I've been watching it as well, though I'm not caught up (S1E4 was the last I watched). I'm enjoying it, and would recommend.

You mean the 3 parts (XLRs, RCAs and switch)? It seems to though I haven't measured or done any sort of mock up. I think there will probably be enough slop possible in assembly to get them to match, but I'll play around with it. The switch is an NKK m2042xxxxx, and the Neutriks are NC3FAV2. I tied the two chassis gnd connections from the Neutriks together with a pad in the middle, and did the same with the pin 1s. Then put two pads in connected to the board gnd plane. I'll probably add another pad for chassis ground to give the most flexibility. On my Pass Aleph P, the XLR grounds both go to board ground. Same on Kerry's SS Mini. I haven't had any hum problems whatsoever on my stuff, but everyone has different issues potentially. Thanks for getting me thinking about this shit though I also used a drawing of the Cardas GRFA DBL PRT that someone had provided on a diya thread you were participating in to draw up that part in Eagle as well, in case I wanted to go that route.

From Rane 110, it appears that the "right" way to do it is to tie pin 1 to chassis. The two pins in the lower right corners of the XLRs are also supposed to go to chassis, correct? If so, I could wire these together to a pad to wire to chassis ground.

Too bad, though it sounded as if she was in bad shape. A gorgeous woman, even at 65. Too young. It sounds like she was quite kind and well liked as well.

Bought a pair of the Vampire RCAs (ebay) and measured them. I've attached an Eagle library with these in them as well as a board layout using these and Neutrik jacks and NKK switch. I haven't verified any of the board <-> panel spacings yet, but they seem reasonable, with some soldering slop. Change the file extensions from zip to lbr for the library file. con-audio.zip

Apparently she is still alive? https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/04/entertainment/tanya-roberts-update/index.html

RIP Tanya Roberts... https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/04/entertainment/tanya-roberts-death-trnd/index.html

Those caps should run from V+ or V- to ground. The boards have a ground plane (top side of board). Check for continuity to ground on those; if not, jumper them to ground. Sometimes if you use PCB drills and only enlarge slightly, they will still be good.

Happy Birthday Dan!

1) This isn't a headphone site 2) As an engineer, you should already know that nothing is perfect...

I hope this isn't a trick like last year!

RIP Mary Ann

Dealing with aliexpress sellers... I ordered a replacement DSL-710A DVD drive for my Resolution Audio Opus 21 CD player from an aliexpress seller. The pictures were of a new unit with the correct LT7.9 firmware and a 2005 date code. The item I received (after a month of waiting) was a used unit, 2002 date code, and LT7.3 firmware. Original ad: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001399857825.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.17444c4dXcOvvp What I got is pictured below. It does work, and solves the problem I was having, at least for awhile. I filed a dispute, asking for $20 back. I don't know if this is a translation/language problem, but the seller kept insisting that the laser is new, so I guess in his mind this is a new unit? Messages: Seller: 里面激光头是全新的 The laser head inside is brand new Me: New means the entire unit, not just the laser. More than the laser can and does go wrong with these. I have filed a dispute for a partial refund. I had also sent a message before I purchased regarding the firmware revision. As pictured, it was LT7.9. The unit you shipped is LT7.3. Also, as pictured, it was a 2005 build date. Item shipped is 2002. Seller: 你好出了什么问题，不能改的，现在改了价格就收不到货 Hello, what's wrong with you? You can't change it. Now you can't receive the goods after changing the price. Seller: 你好我把钱全退给你你给个好评吧！ Hello, I will return all the money to you, please give a good comment! At any rate, it looks like I will be getting a refund and can keep what he shipped. Ordering another one from a different seller, this one having good feedback for this drive from this seller. I had paid for the unit, including upgraded shipping, and get a message from him saying that the price has changed, and I owe an additional $24. WTF? This is the current ad: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32793959385.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2aa74c4dp0pBzd I had paid $65 plus $32 for shipping. This whole experience is souring me on dealing with aliexpress, but finding these drives here in the US is problematic. Jeff Kait with Resolution Audio will sell me one for $250, which I may wind up doing.

Thinking about this, just bypassing the wiper may work the best. The input would see the same resistance whether the pot was switched in or not (pot R || input impedance). Plus I could do balanced with a 4PDT (or 2 dual relays). Let me know what you think.

Happy Merry Birthday Ric!

Happy Birthday Ken!

Has any one of you done something like this, accommodating a pair of RCAs and a pair of XLRs, with the appropriate switching for these? I know I'll get told to just use the Neutrik or whatever RCA->XLR adapters for this, but I was thinking about doing up a PCB with a pair of something like the Neutrik NC3MAV/FAV and a pair of RCAs. Has anyone ever used the vertical Vampire RCAs (pcb2f/s)? They don't list any dimensions or PCB layout for these, but just wondering height-wise if these could work well? I had thought I would probably use relay switching instead of a mechanical switch, as the 4PDT are a PITA to wire up, but I suppose just going into a board with connectorization could make things more palatable. Thanks for your thoughts, or if you have seen anything like this around.

Oh, it will have to sound more "open"