Pars

http://www.rob.com/matt/rc/rc_video/B25_Striking_Back_airshow_Video.wmv Not sure how fast this will load. RC aircraft...

Eucalyptus oil is another good one for this. Tried that when my cat chewed up my Hakko 936 cable to the iron She's never been back there since

I don't think it was taken that way Nate (at least not by me). The issue is yet another level (NP) whose permission may need to be secured by a builder other than just permission from amb.

Looks like amb got Nelson Pass' permission to go ahead with this, which is good. I would have been surprised if Nelson had said no, as he does probably the most of any of the big commercial designers in terms of promoting DIY...

Yeah, I figured the 150 would go for even more... but this DCP-100 needed to be fixed and it still went for that much.

I'd agree on the Apple Store refurbs... bought my dual G5 PowerMac from there and have never had any trouble with it. Even came with more RAM than advertised

I thought Teres was DIY Build one.... Damn, where's the duck and run like hell emoticon? Hope ya get it at any rate

http://cgi.ebay.com/DENON-DCP-100-Portable-CD-Player-Discman_W0QQitemZ300191015496QQihZ020QQcategoryZ15054QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Good gawd... I can't believe how much this went for! Maybe its just me , but I was gonna bid $20-30 for this and see if I could fix it for my work rig.

Someone bought the pair I was looking at on HF... oh well, no loss really. I'll probably just stick with what I have, and maybe reconfigure a pair of the HGAs since they don't seem to be worth much anymore.

OK... although Grover has stated on head-fi that he does (or did) use Switchcraft RCAs (he has them silver plated.. nothing wrong with those either). A guy has a 1M pair of white S cables on head-fi right now for $90 shipped, which seems pretty good... if I want to get back on the cable merry-go-round. The more I read, it seems like the BS is piled higher and deeper than when I got off it (2000 or so).

So what, like 3 ribbons stuffed inside a straw per conductor? Interesting (I guess). Any idea what the blue shell is? Remnants from some coax or something?

I'm not Zach, but I have and use a Brickwall (8-AUD) for several years now, replacing a Monster HTS2000 (IIRC). I can't hear any difference with my power amp (Odyssey Stratos) plucced into the Brickwall versus into the wall. Dimmer in same room would effect the audio (hum or buzz) with the Monster... no noise with the Brickwall. Works for me... Monster relegated to TV duty

I don't really know why I'm not using them. I've never sat down and just listened to cable changes, and usually don't even pay attention to what is where, but instinct was telling me that I liked the AQs better... Might have to toss a pair in and try that just to see if I can even really hear any difference or not. Sounds boring as hell...

I believe a gain of 1 is no amplification... a gain of 0 is undefined??? or off...

Yeah, that is why I posted this here... to see beyond the hype/FOTM etc. Not that the Grovers are that, but they verge on it at the other place, and I had noted the recent constant upgrade cycle. I need to replace the coupling caps in my preamp... probably a better use of money, but any recommendations will still be considered. I had also toyed with taking a pair of the HGAs and using the wire to do a set of VH Audio silver configured cables just to see if there is anything there...

I had more or less gotten out of the cable game the past few years, as it didn't seem to me to be a cost effective area to get into. I am using old interconnects... Audioquest Turquoise mainly, though I have a couple of pairs of AQ Ruby and 2 pairs of HGA Super Silvers (their first IC) which I am not currently using. I started toying with perhaps looking at something more modern... Grovers maybe? It could be DIY also... VH Audio Silver (but these appear to run ~$120 for a 1M pair, and up depending upon RCA chosen). If I went into this, it would have to be something inexpensive (<$100 per 1M pair preferred... I know that will elicit some ). I noticed a pair of Grover S cables on HF that I am contemplating buying (there were a pair of UR5s also, but these seem to have fallen out of favor?). Any comments, recommendations, etc. would be appreciated.

Let me know how you like that as I am thinking of buying the same one...

That is a beautiful deck... what is it?

I'm not sure why the Predator has both 60 and 120Hz residuals. The Predator's graphs don't look that bad on their own (other than the crosstalk one which is really bad). It's when you see the Pico's superimposed that it starts to look bad. I always wanted to know what causes this (for the Predator... this is the IMD graph... all the squiggly crap). Intuition tells me this is the rails being modulated...: [img width=150 height=93 alt=imd1]http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1279&g2_serialNumber=2&g2_GALLERYSID=3b85edc3f3e17fc5e8b25ff2ef57eac4

The Pico's graphs just look much cleaner overall in terms of noise floor, etc. Distortion figures from RMAA should be viewed as relative and not absolute values in my opinion. RMAA has a reputation for producing distortion numbers that aren't really believable.

Only way to do low values... c'mon, you know that's why you bought that HP

Yeah... just remember until you are sure that it is fixed, don't touch it with both hands... one hand only. And make sure you have shoes on, and not on bare concrete, etc. The meter set to volts (AC) with one lead in a wall ground, other to the case would be pretty safe, as long as there is somewhere on the case that you could touch the one lead to without having to open it up, etc... could just go to the interconnect sleeve.

I take it you picked up the HP3478 that was FS a bit ago? You get any kelvin leads for it? I've got a 3468B that I use and like alot. Built some 4-wire leads with some Mueller clips from Mouser and some banana plug test jumpers I had laying around... nice for matching resistors.

Tube shit and 2-prong power cables reminds me of the image Reks posted:

If the ground pin on the IEC connector is connected directly to the case, then this is correct (very common configuration). The point of this is safety... if something in the transformer/PSU/AC connection were to come in contact with the case, the case will short it back to the ground in the power cable. Should also blow the fuse as well. If your friend could check AC voltage between the ground point on the case and a wall outlet ground, that would tell you if you have any AC on the case. You said you got shocked again just from the interconnect? What does this interconnect go to? It might not be the DAC or whatever it is that you are checking now... could be another piece of equipment causing it. Many components have the interconnect grounds connected to the chassis as well.