Pars

Could be, its been a few years since I read it. He was arguing against driver break-in though IIRC. Seems like it was Tom Noussaine, but its been awhile (he is/was a columnist in the Sensible Sound I think). And I'm not saying I buy it either; just throwing it out there

People always toss out driver burn-in (or break-in) as a given, but there was a guy on the newsgroups (rec.audio.?) that said he had done mucho testing on loudspeakers and that after being played, the speaker went back pretty much to the state it was in before being played, or at least alot closer than you would think. You would think that sooner or later, the coefficient of elasticity, etc. would be permanently changed. Dunno, just thought I would toss that out there.

I listened to Morphsci's K-701s at a Chicago meet and they did sound good from his GS-X. They were still reminiscent of my K-601s from my Gilmore V2 DIY, just more fleshed out. For the record, I have never owned Senn HD600s or HD650s and have only listened to them at meets, but I have heard them balanced via a Dynamight and SE via KGs Dynahi, and I would have to say I don't care for them. I know, heresy... VILLAGER #1: We have found a witch. May we burn her? BEDEVERE: So, why do witches burn? [pause] VILLAGER #3: B--... 'cause they're made of... wood? BEDEVERE: Good! Heh heh. So, how do we tell whether she is made of wood? BEDEVERE: Does wood sink in water? VILLAGER #1: No. No. VILLAGER #2: No, it floats! It floats! BEDEVERE: What also floats in water? ARTHUR: A duck! CROWD: Oooh. BEDEVERE: Exactly. So, logically... VILLAGER #1: If... she... weighs... the same as a duck,... she's made of wood. BEDEVERE: And therefore? VILLAGER #2: A witch! VILLAGER #1: A witch! CROWD: A witch! A witch!... VILLAGER #4: Here is a duck. Use this duck. [quack quack quack] The Senns are very polite cans, but toss some large symphonic on them (Mahler, and loud) and they just turn into mush, balanced or not. Of course, this was at a meet, so some more time might be in order. I can see where you guys might like them for jazz though. For now I'll take the AKGs, thanks.

Sorry, on my work windoze machine... can't see the pics that well. Internal toslink... wtf?? Why not use I2S?

Sure that isn't 75 ohm coax connecting the SPDIF output on the back? In which case, that is the right way to do it assuming transformer and interface is done correctly also...

It was in the members lounge and had to do with a transaction on another forum (apparently bicycle related) back in 2005? I didn't follow the link that was posted though... Nate (bad Nate) did his usual to try to deflect this as some guy who was shipped something and claimed it didn't arrive even though bNate said he had proof of delivery. Same song and dance about getting a check from the shipper and sending it to the offended party (deja-f'ing-vu?).

Oohhh... '00s = 1900 instead of 2000? That'd be like Mahler, which would probably change my vote...

Preferably with a cliff involved...

That is UP-OCC wire I take it? Mind telling me who's it is and where you get it from? I figured partsconnexion, but don't see any red 24ga there...

Yeah, jeez what was I thinkin, with Silicon Valley in the link... Actually, I should have put it in the topic... my bad.

Which set was supposed to be the good songs? Oh right, the one with Black Dog in it. I grew up in the '60s and '70s, and I can't stand the '70s in general. Of course I didn't recognize some of the songs in the good list or don't remember them... unfortunately I think I recognized all of the songs in the bad list Almost voted for the '80s, but went with the '90s instead, although a case for the '60s could be made (LZ, Hendrix, the early GOOD Who as opposed to whatever that was in the mid/late '70s, etc.).

Isn't that always the case (4 or 5 hands needed...). Those are very nice looking cables Nate Vince. Is that just red heatshrink on the wires themselves? I haven't looked the Senn connectors over closely as I have never owned any Senns, but is there enough room to get some type of heatsink (the kind for soldering) in there on the pin? Probably not, but that could help in terms of not letting the pin heat up too much.

Saw this on hf and thought some of you might be interested... http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/tubes-boxes-boxes-silicon-valley-313585/ no connection/interest with this (other than if you find some Amperex 6922 PQ white label for cheap, I'll take them off your hands )

That the silver one on agon? http://cgi.ebay.com/Odyssey-Stratos-Amplifier-Hi-Fi-Audiophile-Quality_W0QQitemZ330179651544QQcmdZViewItem another resort. Kinda light on them on agon right now (other that monos). If you do an odyssey, get the SN# from the seller and call Klaus in Indy ((317) 299-5578) to make sure you can transfer warranty with no problem. He's also just great to talk to. He is often there very late at night and will answer the phone.

I believe that is core memory, which is (err, was) static... so kitteh sez both?

I already gave one suggestion (re. opamps). And buffers. Of course you can just stick with the buffers you have. I wouldn't, but that's me. Research on head-fi. As for changing the opamps, AD8620/8610 only come as SOIC-8 (SMD). I don't know whether MisterX socketed these using BrownDog adapters, or soldered them right on the board (Tangent's stuff like the Pimeta would accommodate SOICs on the bottom of the board). If they are socketed DIP-8 form factor, if you choose DIP-8 replacements you can pop the old ones out and the new ones in. So, you will have to take a look at it to see. And then make the determination whether you want to mess with it or not. And then, if so, do the research. If not, buy a different amp.

Happy birthday!

MisterX is a good builder (somehow thought this might have been DIY...) The AD8620/8610 are typically rather bright and sterile sounding. Between that and the BUFs, there is alot of room to play in terms of the sound of these. The rest of the parts are pretty standard for Pimeta builds, other than maybe the Cardas wiring, which probably makes no difference in sound. If you don't DIY, it may be a moot point however.

Ya know, you could do some opamp rolling and maybe even do something with the buffers on your Pimeta before you just roll over and buy a new amp... like maybe an OPA2107 on the L/R, something decent on the ground, look into doing some discrete buffers? BUF634s don't sound very good to my ears, and discretes that cost all of about $5 in parts to build (assuming you can etch your own boards) absolutely kick their silicon asses. Just a thought...

Nice!! Forgive my Grado high-end newbishness, but which ones are those? HP1000?

Is Reks OK?

Redco was linked two posts above... read first

So what, you were standing (kinda) and not hemoraging, so they figured they could take off? Asswipes... What kinda jacket was it? If Dusty can't find a match, the manufacturer might be able to supply one... Damn Reks... I'd take Tom up on his offer.

I'm by no means a Grado expert (I only own SR-60s), but I would stay away from the SR-125s. I had a pair and got rid of them because I didn't like them as much as the 60s. If I were going to go up, the 225s would be the first ones I looked at.

The Senn requires more voltage swing to drive, but less current. A home power amp has no problem with voltage swing... driving adequate current for the 4 ohm and 2 ohm (and possibly 1 or less) ohm loads is more of a problem. Conversely, in headphone amps, particularly portable ones powered by 9V batteries, the voltage swing is usually harder to achieve than the current levels necessary to drive Grados.