Pars

Aww man... get back on it. I've still quit since January. But I do understand... there have been several times... :smoker:

Nailed it!

That sucks to hear Smeggy. The first band I played in starting when I was in junior high had a really good guitarist who wound up being allergic to guitar strings... he would develop a rash much like what you are describing. He could avoid it by wiping the strings down with rubbing alcohol (can't remember how often he needed to do that, once a set or maybe once a night was enough). Don't think you can wipe the wood down like that though... hopefully you can figure out if it is a particular wood.

I've only printed one or two on plain paper, and they looked good. I'm not into photography like you and others here are, so my eye for such things is probably lacking...

Nice! I bought an MP970 (IIRC) a couple of months ago and so far like it alot. Sure beats the Epsons we used to have <-

Justin FTW! These http://mysite.verizon.net/vze4c5pt/id2.html look nice, but you could do what you need to do with not even 4 resistors, but 2, one in series with each channel, for $0.40 apiece for nice resistors (PRP, Holco, etc.). Yes, you would want to probably solder these into the Almarro, right before the volume pot if you could. The pot will provide the resistance to ground required.

Have 'em put an RK50 in it Then it meets Nate's criteria... both of them

No breakers between individual grounds. As another poster said before, the grounds must be at the same potential; otherwise its like plugging things into outlets on different circuits which is usually a recipe for ground loops. There are circumstances where PSUs can pollute the ground (actually more like noise coming back right thru the PSU); particularly those of digital equipment. PSU design is really an art (a very scientific art) from what I can see and there don't seem to be that many people that are really good at it. And alot of people have the attitude that its just a power supply; all the same, right? Puts out voltage, so its all good All I know is that when I put a DMM (or a pair of them) on supplies like the Gilmore Dynamic or on a sigma22 and see nice tight tracking and really stable readings (like not changing 0.1mV) and can't see anything on it with my Tek 465b, I'm happy

Not sure where to put this, but the quote (postjack) was from what are you listening to thread, but got buried (quickly)... Any idea where I could try to find this set at? I spent some time online looking with no luck...

I've been playing around with an earlier version of Christian's (Cauthemoc on hf) designs. This one is a real current conveyor (ala Hawksford) design. It is somewhat more complicated (more parts), but should sound good. I would like to at least breadboard this one up some time. This one has extremely low input impedance (0.3 ohm) according to Christian... I can't calculate that and don't run simulations (which is how he calculated it IIRC). He is an engineering student in Switzerland, and seems to know what he is doing...

I've used Olimex once for some boards and they were fine as well. Not as good of quality as Imagineering, etc., but much better than I expected... and much cheaper.

Jocko's (incomplete... for ideas only, but will work) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6121&highlight= interesting thread... Nicke is one who supposedly figured Jocko's stage out, and has a stage posted on diyaudio IIRC: http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=3712&highlight=simple#3712 rbroer's less simple TDA1541a stage (this is the one I am using minus the PSU emitter follower stuff) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22542 rbroer also has a simple 1541a stage, as well as one or two 1543/1545 stages, one of which is what is used for the monica dac. Search diyaudio if you are interested in these. The one above is probably the best model for adapting to other DACs. ANd another thread, some on the rbroer as well as others: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54608&highlight=

which ones?

I personally prefer the no feedback discrete current conveyor type I/V stage (ala Jocko and variants... rbroer, cetoole's is one as well and looks good). To be honest, I haven't tried passive mainly because it sucks, at least with a TDA1541a which doesn't have the current to really drive a resistor. Iout on a DAC really wants to see a dead short, and any resistor, particularly one large enough to give you the output voltage needed isn't going to be close to that. I have also not tried transformers, as they are quite expensive. I think you can build a better discrete stage than a zapfilter as well. I have done quite a bit of opamp rolling, and other than the THS4031/4032 which I never got around to trying, I would not consider going back to them... discrete just kicks them too badly. Is the IVY a discrete stage or is this the one using a THS4031? Or another really high speed chip?

Well, they aren't 800V, but I thought one of you could make something really dangerous with some of these...

Thinking about it a bit more, I think you need floating supplies for this (where the - is not ground referenced). Kevin could show you how these are done, I'm sure. I could do it with my bench supply (well, not the 400V part), but as Nate mentioned, your normal Tread/Steps/sigma are ground referenced, so the - of the top supply is going to short out the + of the bottom one, leading to some potentially spectacular results

After my last couple of TVs, I think I am on about my last product from these guys...

Changing lasers out sometimes is quite easy. It depends upon any alignment, etc. being required. The Philips CDM4 I have is just a drop in, and I have two spare. The mech for this one (Sony SCD-1) however is rather expensive at $215+. You would need to either track down a service manual for this or know someone who knows how to do it. Point is a failed mech doesn't automatically mean new transport/player time.

Maybe I'm not thinking thru this correctly, but if you stack two supplies to achieve your 800V, won't the "ground" (i.e., the filter cap - and case, etc.) of the upper supply effectively be at +400Vdc? Just like stacking caps? Or will the - terminal of the upper supply short out the bottom supply? Need more coffee

Congrats! Yes, you and your bride look warm!

x3 (or 4, whatever its up to now). Kittens are so much fun (well, other than with speakers )

And what's that in the rack

Probably stupid, but whatever My kids have ipods, and I've used them a bit. I've built a couple of docks for them, and we have one of the sendstation (IIRC) docks which also has USB on it. With that USB, could you hook an iPod up to a Pico and play thru that, or is it only for data transfer (itunes)?

Maybe I misunderstand iMods, but isn't their sole purpose to bypass some crappy SMD output caps with some <insert boutique cap here>? Since said caps obviously won't fit inside an iPod if you want to get the lid back on, they spawned the iMod Dock biz (caps in dock instead of inside ipod). They do not tap the digital out AFAIK...

Oh yeah, drinkin' the kool aid... If you're going to take the time to stamp them, make em double crowns (S2s?)