Pars

sometimes their (Neutrik) strain reliefs have a piece or section you can remove for thicker cable. Its usually not clear at all in their instructions... what particular connector?

I see where you're coming from Marc. I don't think the price of most of the hi end amps such as SPs, RSA B52s, etc. has anything to do with cost and more to do with perception of what the market will bear. People will pay it, so there ya go.

Nate, I hadn't noticed your new avatar... nice, Dad!

Looks a little toasty where the FET had been. And not just any electros, but these look like BG VKs. Note also the VCaps, etc. Lots of hi $$ parts in here, with really poor execution. Which resistors were you referring to earlier that were supposed to be the non-inductive WW? The long brown ones? For what is being paid, no Mills MRA-12s or something else decent?

Not much to soldering... just heat both parts up and apply solder. When you do it right, the solder will just kinda suck into the joint and you can see it. I think alot of people make it into a bigger deal than it really is. Just do it That is some weird heatshrink! I have one of the crappy Harbor Freight heatguns, and like Nate, I would be afraid to use the high setting on it. I actually unsoldered a connection to a pot or something on the low setting. I'd bitch to Markertek about that shrink.

Watched it for the first time Thursday and liked it. I thought the acting was a bit meh at times, but I did enjoy it and will watch it again. Still spoiled by The Shield as my favorite show though...

What is this thing? Where's the DAC? Or is it the dip-8 (TDA1543/1545?). Passive I/V with a couple of Rikens is it? And are those two transformers behind the red BGs for the output stage?

See em now. There are 2 capacitor locations marked CX each with a location marked jumper plus a jumper location for resistor RX to patch it in parallel with R27 I assume. Neither of which are documented in the manual.

Looking at the schematic and the manual, it looks like R27 is the input loading resistor, and is spec'd at 47K. It looks like there is an R1 (also marked RX) position on the board which is in parallel to R27. You could place resistors or caps or both here to adjust the cartridge loading.

Sorry, the DDE was what I was talking about. I wouldn't bother with modding the DDS. Was the DDS positioned by AA as a transport, or as a CDP? Or both? Just curious. The DDE interests me...

More like its screaming for a decent (discrete) output stage. Why fuck around with opamps?

Matched Toshiba available here. This is jackinnj from DIY audio's store; I've ordered from him before and got what I was after, so should be good.

Is the disk doctor stuff well thought of anymore? Was it ever well thought of? I bought that stuff (a pair of LP pads, the fluid, etc.) a few years ago and have used it sparingly, but it seemed to work well. Not as easy as a machine, but not bad.

Hmm, yes they do Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables. They also carry a threaded adapter... any guesses as to if the threading is the same?

RTFM?

The footprint I have seen of the LSK is a round footprint, not linear? I suppose with some creative lead bending and perhaps some teflon tubing... http://www.linearsystems.com/datasheets/LSK389.pdf

The footprint/package type isn't even close to being the same on these???

Yep, the sailplane ones are cool. So is the P51... they're all neat actually

Happy Birthday guys!

Looks good Jack. My brother had the floors in his condo redone a couple of years ago. They redid the living room (where his rig is) in wood, so he was somewhat nervous about how the acoustics would turn out, and was prepared to get some thick area rugs, etc. When he moved the rig back in, his Apogees have never sounded better and he is quite pleased with it. I think you are on the right track getting the speakers out from the back wall a bit further. Hope everything works out.

A really good article by Nelson Pass on class A, A/B and B operation... http://passlabs.com/pdf/articles/leaving_class_a.pdf

I would think that wearing gloves would be an incredible pain in the ass. Best advice I can give you is to only grab the soldering iron where you are supposed to. I have soldered for years and can't remember the last time I burned myself. You are more likely to splatter solder on yourself, etc. Don't wear shorts and solder with the object in your lap

I wouldn't count on standardization. Keep an eye on the center pin polarity as well to avoid doorstop syndrome.

Saw this stuff for sale on diyaudio and thought of you guys... would this be the proper stuff for making electrostatic headphone membranes? diyAudio Forums - ESL films any interest?

Take a look at http://www.jameco.com, although in a quick check there I didn't find any 16V supplies. You can also look at Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor or Digi-Key Corporation - USA Home Page. Another approach would be to get a 24V DC unregulated wallwart of appropriate current output and build a Tread module Product Details. This would insulate you from having to deal with AC directly at least. Ratshack has a couple you could look at as well. http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2818335&cp=2032056.2818119&allCount=45&f=Brand%2F1000094%2F&fbx=0&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FOver+12V&fbn=Type%2FOver+12V The 13.5V - 30V adapter does not list the actual voltages it does. They also have a 15V 1A adapter that might work as well.