Pars

I'd second the Pimeta. The discrete buffers (mono rev. Sijosae) kick the BUF634s to the curb IMO. You will need to etch your own boards for those. Alternately there are some LMH something or other buffers and others (do a search on HF). If you can swing the M3 then that would also be a good choice, though I've never personally heard one.

My thought exactly.... $1500 DAC in a Hammond 1455. But wait, the money is in the circuit... gotcha A lot of use of half-truths in the marketing fluff as well: Nice leading the audience with the "We all know...". Feedback has its uses. I would agree from what I have heard in I/V stages (Jocko variants) that feedback isn't a good thing here. An I-out DAC really wants a dead short, and <50 ohms isn't a particularly good impression of a dead short... < 1 ohm would be much better, but certainly less than 3-5 ohms is easily doable. And is the TDA1543 well thought of (at least excluding Monica...)? I guess if it sounds good...

Good motto... I approve. I'd try the slot...

The stock one is the one I use most. If you are going to be doing small SMD parts they have a 1/16" chisel tip that works well. If you have a Fry's around they stock many of the tips if you want to look at them before deciding.

Ya think? If you buy any of these for digital coax use, do yourself a favor and get at least the 2m. This helps minimize the effect of reflections and hopefully jitter.

Happy Birthday Tyll!

Happy Birthday Tom!!

ATI Research closed down... is Arthon another company? If so, I'll have to check them out...

And who might this be? The only Thailand vendor I knew of closed down.

A B22 would certainly be a candidate. As for kits, jrossel (Glass Jar Audio) has them. Your on your own for casework however. IIRC, Thrice builds B22s occasionally/all the time? An M3 might also suit you as well. No one is building Dynahis anymore AFAIK, but a used one (avoiding certain builders) would be good as well.

Decline from a very low starting bar height Lars... greatest drummer evah

Happy Birthday Pete!

I have some 337s so will shoot 1 or 2 off to naamanf tomorrow.

I think I have some, will look tonight.

Happy Birthday!!!

KG had this to say in one post: http://www.head-case.org/forums/headphone-amplification/1296-corda-opera-post30900.html?highlight=ground+channel#post30900 I've never compared the same amp in a 2 channel vs. 3 channel variety, so can't say.

Happy Birthday!!!

Pics show up for me just fine... congrats!

Yeah, that would probably work. I would prefer a button with a shoulder on it, but if the buttons fit the switches well (as in tight), etc. those would be good. One thing that can help alot, particularly if you are going to be attaching PCBs to a front panel, is to back the front panel with a piece of clear plexiglass. I don't know how thick you were planning your front panel to be however.

I really don't know since I've never used tactile switches and never done anything like this. Check Bergran's CD player out as he used 8 of them. I thought he had pics of the buttons he machined but I couldn't find them: Bergrans CD-Pro2M controller

I think it is kind of a blind bore, or like one, where the hole from the rear is larger than the hole in front and "stepped" somewhere within the thickness of the panel. I know the FPE designer lets you do stuff like that. Figuring out what dimensions, etc. to use is another thing.

FTFY

You might also check to ensure that your intended XLR cables can fit that close together... probably not a problem for XLRs, but with some of these guys building garden hoses...

Very nice! The XLRs are a bit tight together, but I suppose to fit everything in they need to be. I'd like a bit more material left between them if it were me.

You just needed Carlo (IIRC?) to mod it for you...