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What!!!! Get back to work!

I grew up in NE Iowa. I do remember the first or second year that my wife and I lived in Chicago of driving back to my parents house on Christmas Eve with it around -25F air temp out. Semis stalled on the interstates from the fuel gelling... was a bit scary thinking about the car quitting out there around eleven or midnight, but it was relatively new so no problems. I wouldn't have done that if we had the kids at that time.

The coldest I remember is -27F... then there was the wind (20 mph+). Made walking 1/4 mile west across campus a real treat. I guess it did get down to -34F when I was 8, but I don't remember that.

In this economy? For what has to be a tiny, niche manufacturer?

Have a nice one!

Stayed employed... some weren't so lucky.

Lowest signal level present is already line level (i.e., highest level in preamp), so maybe they thought the Faraday cage wasn't needed? Silver transformers? uhhh, yeah... I'll bet those are expensive

BNC is a far superior connector, so particularly given WBT's prices, why bother?

Yes, that's what I'm saying. And the WBT actually being 75 ohms isn't verified as far as I know. It is a physics thing... the distance between the center conductor and the shell that precludes RCAs from being 75 ohm without massive rework. Read the link or do some searches on diyhifi or diyaudio... while you are at it take a look at the SPDIF xmit/receive portions as well Oh wait, you said Cryo? That changes things

I can't think of one, but...

Marketing bullshit... IIRC they measure somewhere around 50 ohms from what I've read (somewhere???). If you have to use an RCA, those are what I would use though. DIYHiFi.org • View topic - Connecting CS841[2,4] directly to the line: why not? The jury is out on the WBT ones (haven't seen anyone measure these), but these have to be used with the matching WBT sockets.

Except that there's no such thing as a 75-ohm RCA (connector)... But yeah, much of the coax used for ICs is probably 75 ohm coax.

I would be really worried with a blind threaded bore in material this thin... it is only aluminum after all.

One other thing to keep in mind with these things is that pots don't like DC on them (particularly the conductive plastic ones such as Alps, TKD, etc.) So even if you're preamp has coupling caps in it, make sure they happen before the signal hits the pot if you are thinking about using a straight LOD and cable with an iMod. In my Counterpoint tube pre, that is not the case.

I'll need to more accurately measure the current draw, but the bench PSU said ~>200mA for the positive and ~350mA for the negative rails. Not sure why the neg seemed to be drawing moar power. Bench PSU is a relatively cheap B&K, don't know how (in)accurate the meters are.

Are batteries any cleaner than a sigma22 or one of Gilmore's PSUs? My guess would be no... IIRC in the original headwize article for the Gilmore Dynamic (dynalo), Kevin stated that the PSU was cleaner than batteries. Plus it requires +/- power input so you would have to use 2 batteries or a rail splitter.

I hadn't really intended on experimenting on the unit since it isn't mine, and the PCB appears to be a bit fragile in terms of trace and thru-hole plating lifting. I had simply told morphsci that I would take a look at it and see if I could get it working, which I did. He had mentioned that he doesn't have a power supply so in a PM I had somewhat offered to look into it if he wished and see what something suitable would cost. Initially I had thought that a pair of Treads or a sigma22 would be nice, or even a +/- 12V Elpac I have laying around. I would prefer to leave everything else stock, and not get involved with changing out the 3.5mm mini power jack, caps, etc.

I would think that would be fine, but had to go read the datasheet and look at the pictures (ok, graphs ) to see how regs behaved if they were fed too low of voltage for them to regulate. I haven't played around with vregs/PSUs enough to know that. It seems that as long as the input voltage is above a certain threshold (looked like ~2V for a LM340 5V reg.) that it just passed the input voltage thru until it was high enough (7.5V) to regulate.

Since I've never seen any of their power supplies, upgraded or not, what can you tell me about them? The input voltage must be higher than ~14.5V for the onboard regulators to function (if I'm reading National's datasheet correctly). I don't know how this might respond to a sigma22 configured for +/-12V... since I have one, I might try it .

Mainly addressed to hydro, but anyone else chime in. I'm working on morphsci's HPA1.0 now and I see that it has 2 sets of 12V regulators (7812 / 7912). Since it regulates the PSU input on board, it would seem that using something like a sigma22 on this would be wasted? I definitely think it needs current, but perhaps a raw dual DC supply capable of 1A on +/- might be better? I haven't traced it out to see why they are using 2 sets of regs however... (TO220s on right side of pic)

Happy birthday!

Happy Birthday Nenso!

I would disagree as well (as in agree with Voltron). He hasn't done anything besides discuss cables.

Happy Birthday!

It is my belief that if you hear major differences between power cords, your PSU(s) suck. Of course I just use a couple of Bob Crump asylum cords that I built back when I was trying to get sucked into the cable thing. Of course its your money... BTW, VD sure were a class act on HF... they would be the last people to get any of my money.