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Thanks guys. Yes, I use the 5.08mm SPOX connectors on my own (lower voltage) builds, as I detest the screw down connectors for my own use. I'll need to take a closer look at these, but Molex makes a Micro-Fit 3.0 series, which is 3mm pitch, and rated for 600V apparently. 3 pin PN: 43650-0315. Might be something to plan for on PCB designs if they actually work out to their ratings. I have some of them for some Salas shunts for a UGS preamp project.

Any part numbers for these? Any search I do on Mouser brings up a TE Mate-N-Lok, and isn't 5.08mm pitch..

Thanks all! I had a nice quiet day for the most part. No listening, but some imbibing did occur...

Happy Birthday Shelly!

Great. Didn't look at it. Go for it.

I'd use something with 2 sets of outputs. You can thank me later (cough cough gilmore_protect board cough cough).

I don't have either of the devices that James has (dy294 or the peak atlas dca75... wish I did), but I built an adapter for the Toshiba dual JFETs using a zig-zag socket, a piece of PCB board, and some thick diode leads. I'll try to post a pic later. This, in conjunction with James' mod with the clip leads, would make this easy.

Not sure Marc. Kevin was using these on the Dynahi PSUs, but switched to the LT1021 for the GRLV/GRHV PSUs. I think the original Dynalo (such as headamp, etc.) also used REF02s.

Happy Birthday Kevin!

Ahhm, damn, they're these guys: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/947D601K901DCRSN?qs=INK05T%2FwFA13oHAmtB1Cnw%3D%3D Crap, those are a bit pricey, but in stock.

Those things aren't film capacitors as he states in his ad are they? Electrolytic would be more like it.

I don't know from a gerber perspective, but could you save the soldermask layer as an image file and invert that using a graphics program?

That looks really nice John. A lot of planning (all the board and device holes, etc.). That doesn't appear to be a Modu case, and looks nice!

Michael, Check out the Rossman group videos on YouTube. He does a review of some hot air stations. He likes the Quick, but I believe he has one from Atten which is cheaper and performs just as well.

Found it (not the cartridge, but what it was). It was an Apature. I'm guessing it was a KOCE. Reading up on them, supposedly Ortofon made them or had something to do with them. I remember liking it though. Sorry to quote my own post, but somehow just ran across the brand of the cartridge today.

Happy Birthday Doug!

They do make another variant of that heatsink (2100G) which is not drilled/tapped, but I don't know if anyone stocks it. You could drill and tap that one for whatever reasonable fastener you wanted to use (4-40 or M3).

If you noticed in the datasheet, these are threaded for a 6/32 Imperial screw, which will not fit thru the insulator that you are using. I think most people use a longer screw with a nut/washer on the back (long enough that it is outside of the fins). Or use a 6/32 nylon screw with no insulator, but I don't know if that is verified to be tight enough or not.

Dukei (Mirko here) uses something similar to that. One of the reasons I ask is there is a difference in volume between modes (ZF is a bit louder), but more disturbingly, there is a slight image shift when switching between modes. I noticed this when using a 1khz test tone. The image shifts a bit to the left when moving to ZF. Per my previous question, the ZF resistor is the 1.9K resistor in the schematic and PCB? I assume so, but just wanted clarification,

Thanks Kevin. The ZF resistor is the one shown as 1.9K in the schematic and on the board (section marked Gain)?

@kevin gilmoreFor a CFP3, in SS mode, the gain is set by the 25K / 1.9K resistors? Or is it the 25K / 5K on the input? What determines gain in ZF mode? Thanks!

This is what I used. PNs missing for some stuff. Gilmore_protect3_mod_BOM_1.xlsx

Like I said, this isn't the exact amp I'm working on. The board on the right is a Gilmore protect board (HIGHLY recommended on one of these). The one on the left in this amp I believe is doing the SS/ZF switching.

This is an amp built by Mirko, that tkam bought from someone on HF I presume. The right channel was flaky, and since the builder is in the EU, he asked me if I'd take a look at it. It is in a single 2U 400mm Modu Pesante case. This isn't the exact amp, but similar.

Thanks Jose. I'm not having ground loop problems, but because of this differential in the grounds between the 2 PSUs (with one ground missing from the pot to the amp board) I was having the protector board trip (it was grounded to the other amp board). It doesn't look like the grounds of the amp boards or PSUs are tied to the chassis at any point either. The only ground connection between the R and L channels was at the pot. Reconnecting the ground on the pot seems to clear up the problem completely. I think I will run a ground wire between the output grounds on both PSUs.