Pars

Good, cuz I went ahead and bought them

I thought that Kevin had published what, 4 varieties of board files, and built two or three himself (in rather expensive solid aluminum enclosures). No one has run the boards and done a GB or anything for them however. Or I could be recalling things incorrectly EDIT: And I think one thing holding this back was waiting for Linear Systems to do the 2SJ109 (LSJ109?) You could of course use singles (2sk170/2sj74).

I'm in for any iron time, parts, etc. that I can help with.

I bit on the V-Moda FOTM awhile back for my 2 sons without doing much if any research. One of them partially severed the cable right below the y-split (or possibly courtesy of the relatively new kitten). V-Moda is saying they don't do repairs. I suppose I could recable it with 18 ga. Jena Any recommendations for some decent buds/IEMs, <$100 (<$60 preferable). They both already have KSC-75s as well. These are for use out of an i-pod, and even though they have them, they don't like dealing with amps. I seem to recall some good thoughts on the Altec 716s? Yuin? I know Klipsch had their pre Christmas 50% off thing as well. Thanks for any suggestions.

Good choice... I wouldn't either

There is a Chinese (I think) company which it is said actually makes the Bursons, or the design is copied from them (Audio-gd). They have 3 flavors of the things. A review of them is over in the DIY area of the other site: Audio-gd discrete op-amps reviewed: OPA-Earth, OPA-Moon, OPA-Sun v.2 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio I personally haven't used them; the only discrete stuff kinda like this that I use is for I/V stages with NO feedback. Opamps by convention must have feedback to work (usually tons of feedback). Plus they use BS meter pegging language in their descriptions, making me much less likely too even consider them. One guy in the DIY section (back before the HF crash) had put some in a CD player and seemed to like them OK. But it didn't seem like a night and day difference. Do a search on Burson there.

I'd like to know what the fuck you are going to buy for a recable that is going to cost you $300+ in materials? Or, maybe not

Talking to myself again Colin (or Marc or anyone who has an opinion on this): In the I/V stage that I am using, I had used 2SA970/2SC2240 BJTs since they are quite neutral. I have read some threads that said that 2SA1016/2SC2362 sound quite a bit better, so I went ahead and got some. Can I just leave the existing BJTs in the CCS stages, or should I switch them all out? In the attached schematic, only Q4L and Q6L are in the signal path. All other devices are CCS. I think... Sorry to the OP for thread redirection

Yes, shipping is high, unless you shoot the perp an offer Spritzer or any else who has used these: I read a review on diycable.com that claimed the rhodium (and silver) scratch off of these rather easily. Also, these are the S with the thick nut (0.00"-0.082"), so will not fit my intended enclosure which has a 3mm back. Do you know if you can buy the nuts separately? If I could get the thin nuts, the range expands to 0.079"-0.142" IIRC, which would be a bit shy of 4mm. I dunno, these seemed like a good idea, but I am now leaning away from doing them.

Borbely seems to know his stuff (I've never used any of it), but it is rather expensive. The All-JFET I/V converter is shown at One for 190.00 Euro, which is over US $230 or so. And I think that is for one channel (other items are shown as Dual in the price list), so ~$460 for 2-ch I/V conversion. Add shipping, PSU or transformer (it says board has on-board regulation, so maybe you don't need much more?

The perp has 3 pairs of these... I didn't have an immediate application but will need some for: Dynahi (2 ch) Aleph P1.7 (at least 1 SE input, and an SE output as well) Rotel 855 when I get around to replacing stock jacks So I figured at that price, they might be nice to try. I need to sit down and finish something also

I've got a Hakko 936 and a wider than stock screwdriver tip (1/8"). Hmmm...

The problem is probably the output stage on the Buffalo versus the zapfilter. I assume the Buffalo you are talking about was using the Ivy output stage? The one I am listening to is certainly not deficient in bass, but also is not a bass monster or whatever. It is pretty equivalent in the low end to the rbroer I/V stage in my Rotel, which is DC coupled and is quite neutral (no caps, etc. in the signal path, so nothing other than mf resistors and the Toshiba 2SA970/2SC2240 transistors to color it). It is also a possibility that the zapfilter is overblown in the bass Dunno, never listened to one, and think they are overpriced.

You mean like these? I was considering buying these

VP

A CNC machine? Not that... oh, wait...

Nice way to answer the question (not). f-tards.

Ahhh, I see. Yes, 100 ohms would be a good idea then, much like the series resistors used in many CDPs ahead of the muting relays.

Happy Birthday!

You would be surprised at how much stuff is really just designed from the datasheet examples. These are often wrong. Remember it isn't usually a design engineer doing the datasheet work, and even for new parts, the examples may be retreads from decades ago. Also, the reasons that things are done a certain way in commercial gear may have nothing to with sound quality or other aspects that you would think would have been accounted for. For example, that transformer on an SPDIF output may be there more to meet FCC part 15 testing rather than its suitability as a pulse transformer.

Just out of curiosity, what is the purpose of these resistors? Impedance?

The Headamp V2 board I have just has a spot for a series resistor per channel (10 ohms) for the pre out spot on it. Otherwise, no difference. I would doubt that resistor is critical either. If yours is built on a V2 board, there should be a spot on the back left edge of the board for this.

2SC3381 datasheet doesn't show any 3 legged for this... it would be kinda hard to pinout 2 BJTs using only 3 pins I hear ya on finding these... I was trying to get more in case I decided to do Dynamite. I decided to just do 2 ch Dynahi instead. Use 2SC2240 pairs to replace these (2SA970 is the complementary).

There, FTFY Smeggy!

I own VR-4 GenIIs, which are probably 3-4 generations prior to these (so maybe not valid or worthwhile). I've been quite happy with these and bought them without listening to them My younger brother had a pair and recommended them to me; since I trust his hearing, I thought it should be fine. It was.