Pars

I thought those were the power transformers?

4700uf seems huge for coupling caps. If as you indicate these are 16V caps and are blocking 25V, they won't be (blocking) for much longer... Are you sure these are coupling caps and not power supply caps?

BRMC-Baby 81 Portishead-Dummy Joy Division-Substance

Well, you know you'd get = buyin

Did you look at the suggested prices on those? Actually, I think I may have 3 of those around, forget where I got them from. Smeggy: Partsconnexion is having a Bargain Basement sale on odds and ends they have laying around, and they do have some feet that sound like they would be nice. Go here and click on the bargain basement sale thing to grab a pdf of what they have. Some machined aluminum feet (sets of 4 for $2 or $5). Maybe something in there you might like, though they seem to lack the bling factor you seem to be seeking to emulate

Yes. I figured it had to be something different than the TO3s I am used to. I couldn't fathom how you were going to do those Yes, design by committee is a big no-no in my eyes. Ironic that I am one of the committee voices

Looks very good Jacob. The only request I would have would be: on the input pads: could you add a ground pad so that a Molex KK 0.100" connector would also fit? I personally like using these over the Phoenix connectors. I'll have to look again, but I would think the TO92 regulators would fit the TO220 pads alright, and I don't like normal TO92 pads anyhow (if not inline, and too small). Otherwise, I agree with the other comments. I'm curious as to how Marc plans on mounting/heatsinking a TO3?

Season 2 started this past Sunday. Pretty intense episode, could be a good season.

I don't know what made you think they were sending an entire PCB (module?). It was pretty clear to me that they were just sending a single UltraAnalog D20400A module (more like an HDAM than a DAC chip). As far as trusting anything that is put up on AudioAsylum, do so at your own risk. Personally, I wouldn't. The technical level of many seems to stop at what kind of faceplate to use on their Oyaides...

See above. Jacob sez they are... The boards may physically be a little deeper, but that shouldn't matter.

FTFM

Yep. They are my favorite of what I have tried. I have one that will be going into the Dynahi I am building currently. TKD stands for TOKYO KO-KON DENPA. I have a datasheet on these if you want it.

Happy Birthday!

They do provide some conditioning/noise rejection as well. Like the dimmer in my dining room was causing noise in my system; Monster HTS2000 wouldn't take care of it. Switched to Brickwall; noise gone.

I think most were commenting on power cables, not conditioners. I personally use a Brickwall and wouldn't be without it. I also use a couple/three crump audio asylum power cables that i built back when I was asking the same kinds of questions, but would not attribute any sort of sound to them, beyond the fact that components do seem to work better when plugged in.

Oh come on, 3 feet of magic pixie dust infused uber copper gravel and irrigation tubing over standard home depot copper wire can undo all the bad that miles of aluminum and other crap induce...

That was something I always wondered about as well--why use L bracket and bend the transistors? I was thinking about getting aluminum about 3/8" thick x 1" or maybe a bit taller, mounting that to the heatsink and have the output devices stand straight up with the board running under the 3/8" piece. Possibly drilling and tapping holes into the bottom edge for the board to mount to?

Happy Birthday Chuck! One of my favorites: When Chuck Norris was driving he saw a sign that said, "Caution: Small Children Playing." So he slowed down, but then it occurred to him: Chuck Norris isn't afraid of small children.

There's only 2 part numbers (a 2.4mA and a 4.7mA), so one of each should be sufficient, or maybe a couple of each to cover all of you. You could first check and see if these are readily available from whoever you guys order parts from (Farnell? RS?). I f you can easily get them, then don't bother.

781-J508-E3 781-J511-E3 Better would be 1n5307 and 1n5314s if you can find them (these are rated up to 100V).

Yes, he do rawk!

Not to be Debbie Downer here, but are you sure that you aren't kinda putting the cart before the horse here in terms of sequencing of what to buy/order when? It would seem to me that before you started lining up all these accessories (for lack of a better term), that until someone has built some DynaFET boards and determined current draws and thermals on the PSUs, etc. that you cannot guarantee that even the larger heatsinks are enough to support this? Or how many sigmas it will take for a given configuration? Or that the sigma will even work for this?

Are you referring to the sigma BOM spreadsheet? You will need either plain IEC power entry (with fusing, some sort of power switch whether it is part of the IEC or not is your choice) or a filtered IEC inlet. Also, it might be good if Team Spain were to include some spare current diodes of both flavors, as these are getting hard to find reliably, at least here in the US.

Pics or it didn't happen! Seriously, hope you're OK...

Pedja Rogic (Audial) knows his shit. I'm building an earlier version of his TDA1541a NOS DAC (even though I don't believe in NOS ). This DAC was what Strohmie used in his DIY CD player also.