Pars

I was asked by Icarium to mention the possibility of incorporating selectable gain into the design. I don't need it, but wanted to bring it up as a possibility. My thought was perhaps two positions? I know there was discussion regarding this in the Dynahi build thread on HF a couple of years ago, and it is certainly doable. Would probably require a different compensation cap, etc. Any interest in this?

I wouldn't bet on it. These are almost certainly current (I) out DACs. All of the I-out DACs that I have seen have different quiescent currents that you need to deal with to put the I/V input at virtual ground with a very low input impedance (I-out DACs really want to drive a dead short or 0 ohm impedance load). The Buffalo can operate in either current out or voltage out fashion (programmable? I haven't read the datasheet). The chances of the SF output stage being configured just right for the Buffalo are slim or none.

There would have to be a mechanism to specify options... if these are just off the shelf then my guess is they are not shielded, screened, etc.

Here's the glassjar spreadsheet for the sigma22. sigma22 BOM.xls.zip

The Talema transformers are (IIRC) the same as the Amveco sold here at Digikey (although they don't have one that is big enough here). If you are putting these in a single box build, you would want to get the transformers shielded, and possibly potted in a can. Not sure if electrostatic screening is required or not? So in answer to your question, can Talema provide units like this for you? As far as I know, the DynaFET would take a +/-30V PSU. If that PSU is a sigma22, then 2x30V is the correct transformer for that. If the PSU were a Gilmore Dynahi PSU, you would want to reduce the transformer secondaries to 2x28V; maybe lower. 2x30V will run too hot on one of these.

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You might point him to the previous thread where you indicated it didn't work as soon as you got it home. I would be very doubtful that he wasn't aware of the issue however .

In my opinion (but I haven't actually checked the figures), getting the Sigmas as kits from Jeff at glassjar is probably cheaper (or as cheap) as buying everything as a group. Looking at his BOM spreadsheet where you can configure what you want, a sigma with board, but no transformer would be ~$66 plus shipping per kit. I can send or post the spreadsheet if anyone wants to see it.

Happy Birthday!

I'm with Grawk that the first thing I would be doing is getting my money back from the seller. You had problems with it immediately upon getting it home (which is when I would have contacted the seller). I'm also not sure it would be that easy for your repair person to isolate it to the D20400A? At any rate, these do come up occasionally: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=1164282261&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

Very ambitious! Were you planning on implementing this in a somewhat modular fashion? I might be interested in the volume controller and the I/O incl. muting, etc. for a preamp project, but would not need items such as temp. monitoring, current monitoring, etc.

We've had this discussion a couple of pages back. After making a similar comment (fugly, about the amp ), I agree that I would much rather have the money spent inside the unit than outside, as is the wont of some vendors. That I can certainly respect.

I've got some Canare, either blue or red, and plenty of Neutrik minis as well which I would be happy to contribute. I also have enough Mogami mini if that would work better.

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Happy Birthday!

Nate (n_maher) has never mentioned anything about transformer hum with the one he got. These are potted as well as shielded, so maybe that's the difference? Plitron charges extra for electrostatic screening and shielding (http://www.plitron.com/standard_spec.asp) and I could not find potting listed, although I see some transformers on their site that are in cans. I already have a transformer (well, it isn't here yet), so I don't have a horse in this race. Just wanted to point out that extra charges will apply particularly for a single chassis build.

Happy Birthday! Almost didn't wish you one because of that disturbing avatar

For (quite) awhile, it seemed like everytime I dropped into the AA DIY forum, I thought I had entered an Oyaide forum by mistake. Discussions of which outlet faceplate (or none) sounded better, yada yada... I've never heard that before? Interesting. Any references?

Happy Birthday Colin!

I was under the impression that non-DIYers could still get an amp built, as that was one of the stated goals on the first page? I had assumed that whoever is building the boards would test them, etc. and these woud be provided ready to go. I also assumed that a full case and all other parts would be available, including FPE panels, etc. so that the DIYer could construct the amp without having to deal with all of the chassis work, etc.? Basically put the amp together with a minimum of wiring to do?

CD-Player-DAC-Transport List

According to the DA and Transport List, this used: SONIC FRONTIERS SFD-2 2 x UltraAnalog D20400A – SM5803AP Had it been a MkII, it would have had the PMD100 instead of the SM5803AP. Same parts as a Mark Levinson No. 30, PS Audio Ultralink. Of course the supporting circuitry, output stage, etc. is probably completely different, so just cuz it has the same chips in it may not mean much.

Ooops, yeah I hadn't considered that aspect.

Yes

No USB should make no difference. Coax, yes. Should be at least 1.5m to minimize the effect of reflections. Some subscribe to that theory. Others go opposite (short ICs, long speaker cables (I think Mapleshade might advocate this,but I don't get their catalogs anymore).