Pars

Yep. They are my favorite of what I have tried. I have one that will be going into the Dynahi I am building currently. TKD stands for TOKYO KO-KON DENPA. I have a datasheet on these if you want it.

Happy Birthday!

They do provide some conditioning/noise rejection as well. Like the dimmer in my dining room was causing noise in my system; Monster HTS2000 wouldn't take care of it. Switched to Brickwall; noise gone.

I think most were commenting on power cables, not conditioners. I personally use a Brickwall and wouldn't be without it. I also use a couple/three crump audio asylum power cables that i built back when I was asking the same kinds of questions, but would not attribute any sort of sound to them, beyond the fact that components do seem to work better when plugged in.

Oh come on, 3 feet of magic pixie dust infused uber copper gravel and irrigation tubing over standard home depot copper wire can undo all the bad that miles of aluminum and other crap induce...

That was something I always wondered about as well--why use L bracket and bend the transistors? I was thinking about getting aluminum about 3/8" thick x 1" or maybe a bit taller, mounting that to the heatsink and have the output devices stand straight up with the board running under the 3/8" piece. Possibly drilling and tapping holes into the bottom edge for the board to mount to?

Happy Birthday Chuck! One of my favorites: When Chuck Norris was driving he saw a sign that said, "Caution: Small Children Playing." So he slowed down, but then it occurred to him: Chuck Norris isn't afraid of small children.

There's only 2 part numbers (a 2.4mA and a 4.7mA), so one of each should be sufficient, or maybe a couple of each to cover all of you. You could first check and see if these are readily available from whoever you guys order parts from (Farnell? RS?). I f you can easily get them, then don't bother.

781-J508-E3 781-J511-E3 Better would be 1n5307 and 1n5314s if you can find them (these are rated up to 100V).

Yes, he do rawk!

Not to be Debbie Downer here, but are you sure that you aren't kinda putting the cart before the horse here in terms of sequencing of what to buy/order when? It would seem to me that before you started lining up all these accessories (for lack of a better term), that until someone has built some DynaFET boards and determined current draws and thermals on the PSUs, etc. that you cannot guarantee that even the larger heatsinks are enough to support this? Or how many sigmas it will take for a given configuration? Or that the sigma will even work for this?

Are you referring to the sigma BOM spreadsheet? You will need either plain IEC power entry (with fusing, some sort of power switch whether it is part of the IEC or not is your choice) or a filtered IEC inlet. Also, it might be good if Team Spain were to include some spare current diodes of both flavors, as these are getting hard to find reliably, at least here in the US.

Pics or it didn't happen! Seriously, hope you're OK...

Pedja Rogic (Audial) knows his shit. I'm building an earlier version of his TDA1541a NOS DAC (even though I don't believe in NOS ). This DAC was what Strohmie used in his DIY CD player also.

I guess I must be missing something here... why would you want to? Are these higher performance than a TL071, etc. as a servo? Increased pull in range (or whatever you call it in a servo) due to the higher rails? Free (kinda)?

That is actually black nylon techflex... must be the flash picking up the white teflon tape underneath it. I'm no photographer, that's for sure But thanks!

A 1 meter pair of RCA interconnects built with 28ga Neotech UP-OCC copper on cotton rope, similar to the ChrisVH silver recipe. Yarbo RCAs.

The one board layout from jacob that I saw had +/-15V regs for a more typical servo opamp in it...

I assume you mean have both sets of boards installed in a chassis at the same time? The inputs wouldn't be so bad I wouldn't think because they've already gone thru the pot at that point, so it would be like a selector switch (stereo or balanced). The outputs you might be able to wire in parallel if only one set of boards was powered. Otherwise, 2-4 more poles (or relays). Then there is power, which is the easiest as you would only need a DPDT switch for that (switching V+/V- DC power). Doing this all without pops, etc. is another matter.

I've never seen pics of the one(s) that KG built, and I don't recall him saying what he used for a PSU in them. He's the only one I know of who has built a DynaFET. On another note, have board pics been posted yet?

I'm not sure I can remember an order where I didn't forget something? Oh, maybe the ones that I went over for several days before placing

That is very good advice. Make sure the amp etc. is turned off before moving/connecting/disconnecting ICs and other pieces of gear.

Happy Birthday!

In the board pics on amb's site, it looked like the bottom ground plane extended under the sinks. I couldn't tell for sure whether the holes were actually tied to the ground plane or not, and being at work, can't measure one.

I'm not vvs, but I'll take a guess. The heatsinks are probably tied to board ground (looks like it on the sigma22). Normally you would use a ground loop breaker, which is a low value resistor and x-rated cap (AC line) in parallel, from the board ground to the case (i.e., wall ground). The heatsink touching could potentially short this ground loop breaker out, rendering it useless.