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Everything posted by Pars
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I knew I had seen a post by someone claiming that the German Maestro cans were really bright (from the N. Cal meet thread): Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - NorCal 8/8/09 meet impressions
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Glad to hear your wife is OK Al. Scary.
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At least I assume that is a good thing...
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I bought a pair of the SRH840s and like them so far. I did note somewhat of a mid-bass hump on classical material. Midrange and treble seems quite good independent of the bass; these are not bright at all but very smooth and well controlled IMO. I have not done anything other than listen to these (i.e., no break-in if you believe in that). I am driving these with a Gilmore Dynamic (w/Gilmore PSU). If the SRH440s were more neutral, I might be more interested in them, but so far I think I will keep the 840s. I also have a pair of AKG K271s with velour pads that I use at work for comparison.
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Happy Birthday gents!
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The Vishay noise suppression capacitors that he discusses (from Mouser) are a Vishay part number F17104101000 and should be these. Referenced in this text in the article:
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FTFY. Might re-read the welcome pm while you're at it...
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x2... hope you shake it off (rather than doctor visit)!
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Looks nice. Probably good that you got the Grace arm vs. one of the Thorens TP-16 Mk. x (II probably for that vintage).
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Happy Birthday Pete!
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You could also take a look at John Risch's filter on audioasylum. I think DIYcable used to offer a kit for it; not sure if they still do or not. Personally, I'd just buy a Brickwall and be done with it.
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I didn't like that idea personally because of the ability to select multiple outputs at once. so I didn't comment on it. Rotary switches are $30 or less for a really good one; dig thru the links I posted, but Lorlin switches are ~$8 or so each; Grayhills a bit more. Look at Digikey or Mouser as your main suppliers for the switches. RCA jacks I would go elsewhere (partsexpress, Cardas CTFA from Soniccraft or handmade electronics, etc.).
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Happy Birthday! Nice to see you around a bit lately.
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Almost all commercial audio equipment has left and right signal ground shorted together internally, so you could get away with a 3PDT switch. The Electroswitch C4 series is supposed to be quite good: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/639/1674.pdf Take a look at Nate's post #8 inthis thread. Decent rotary switches? - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio For switching between sources, you could certainly use a DPDT or 3- 4PDT toggle switch if you are certain that 2 inputs is the most you would ever need. Rotary Switches - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio Another good thread on rotary switches. Note that many of the quality switches will have a high rotational effort, so a large knob will be needed to make turning these easy.
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That is good to know as I am kinda looking for a good but not $$$ closed can for home use. I don't listen to classical all the time, but they would need to be able to handle Mahler, etc. Doesn't sound like these would be a candidate then...
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It is hard for me to think of cans with an MSRP of $350 as entry level. Many people would think that $100 is expensive for a pair of headphones.
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Thanks for the reply. Do you have a link to this mod? Somehow I don't see how a pad mod can help the problems that I am hearing with these, but as always I could be wrong. I have verified that these are genuine AT BTW and not fakes. I have p to 30 days to return these, so unless I am certain that a mod will take care of the problems I am hearing, I will just return them and go a different route.
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Happy Birthday to both of you!
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I'd been getting back into Black Rebel Motorcycle Club after hearing and buying their latest SC (Baby81). Via listening on last.fm to similar, I had run across a few bands that I liked who I will probably be buying cds of... The Black Angels The Ravonettes And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Dead Shiny Toy Guns The Warlocks Girl in a Coma The Duke Spirit The Kills
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I just bought a pair of these from Beach Camera (refurb) and initially I am not too impressed with them. I find them to be bassy and a bit bloated and lacking in midrange definition. Reading the mod thread on HF, it sounds like this mod would do what I think these need, but I was wondering if anyone here had done this mod and what your impressions were with it? Or would I be better off just getting rid of these? I was looking for an inexpensive closed can for home use; I need something that doesn't leak sound to disturb others in the room. I am driving these with a Dynalo, so plenty of power.
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Stupid M3 questions which I'm sure have been answered before...
Pars replied to geremy's topic in Do It Yourself
V- in the case of the M3 (and many other virtual ground amplifiers) depends upon your perspective, but is actually the - of the single ended power supply. It functions on this schematic as the - rail, (or V-). Ground reference is generated by a TLE2426 and is 1/2 the potential of V+ and V-. So for example if you are using a 24Vdc power supply, if you measure V- in relation to the - lead of the PSU, you would get 0V. However, if you measure it in relation to the virtual ground (SG on the schematic), you will see -12Vdc for V- (and +12Vdc for V+).
