Pars

I think it was an embarrassment to him when someone posted the link to the proper USB spec, instead of the Wiki spec that he (they?) had been using. I agree that if it is marketed as a USB cable, it better meet spec. He deleted that post, then made the decision to delete the rest of them. I suppose some of this comes back to the Amphora thread responses, etc. as well.

I see all posts other than the announcement were deleted (the last one first, in which someone provided a link to the real spec... bad form!), and then the thread was locked. As mentioned by edwood, I do like the jacket... quite appropriate.

Now if you move this debate on to virgin nymphs of the rainforest, etc., I think you'll be onto something!

Oh boy... Cables cannot "boost" anything... amplification or gain is required for that. Cutting (opposite of boost) would also be difficult without a little box of passive parts such as MIT uses.

2n3904/3906 are among the most common and generic transistors in existence. Don't worry about it.

Wiki USB Spec: No one should point that out BTW. Just let them muddle along...

Is your Capitole still there?

I'm sure it will be spun as a plus when it is revealed that a HD or the like will not run off of this cable... the sound would be too "digital" if it did

Sorry to hear Al. Hopefully someone other than Mikhail will get this thing sorted out for you.

Thanks Steve. I may try that, think my boss has a biscuit joiner I could borrow. Here is another pic that shows the carpet detail a bit better. Looks like the outer frame is thicker than whatever is underneath it (I assumed plywood). I had considered using an "L" shaped pine molding piece to do this right on the plywood, but I am not sure how it would hold up.

Cool anyhow. Too bad about the smell.

I need to build a new set of steps from the attached garage to the house. I always like the ones a friend of mine has, and went out and bought the materials for them. These are what I would call box steps, but I haven't had any luck on finding plans for something like this online. I was planning on doing these with 2x8 framing on 12" centers and 3/4" plywood. Bottom section would be 5' x 31" and top 36" x 18".I attached a pic of the ones at my friend's house. I'm not sure how the overhang is done on these. Is it just the plywood, or something else? Any suggestions welcome.

I listened to the HF-2 last weekend at Absorbine's as well. I have not really listened to a lot of high-end Grados, but would consider myself a flats guy as well. Bowls were to be equated with drilling holes in my ears from my experience, but I figured all of you who waxed on about bowls couldn't have that bad of ears. I was pleasantly surprised that I liked the HF-2s. With bowls.

Happy Birthday!

I seem to recall using the Maas before, but my favorite is Simichrome. I've used that for years on my Campy bike parts, etc. Kind of hard to find in the US these days though (German product, Happich IIRC is the company that makes it).

The normal pad/hole size is not big enough for the flush sockets, so I had to drill them out slightly (on the Dynalo board). I have a pretty full set of carbide PCB drills

I have some of those (28 pin) and yes they work. The flush pin sockets are much slicker, however They do require drilling (a slight bit) and are dependent on the pads/holes being of sufficient size that you don't go through the thru plating. Not a biggie, but if they will work, I would use them, even for singles. I used these for my work dynalo for all transistors, and it worked out really nice.

Preemptive bitching... what a fun concept! Yes, too small of resistor and pad footprint = a no go for me. I'm only in for two boards, so certainly don't do anything solely on my behalf however. Good idea. I need to look at the Eagle files to see what these are, but documenting the jumpers right on the board is pure win. Good as well if you do a custom part in Eagle. I may use duals, and will almost certainly socket whatever I use. I would like to use these, which require a decent sized pad (the Dynalo boards will take these; the Dynahi boards will not). Absolutely.

I don't know any absolutes, but I would think the higher level the signal is the better before running thru a long IC. The signal straight from the cartridge is such a low level; usually mV IIRC. So yes, phono pre with the TT, then to the preamp would be my guess. This is also what balanced is for... long cable runs.

The beta22 is fully discrete and has a much higher power output, much better PSU, etc. Although for a pro unit this doesn't look like a bad little amp, architecturally it isn't in the same ballpark with a beta22. Good specs are pretty easy to achieve with opamps running with negative feedback. I agree with the balanced in/SE out comment as well. I can't tell, but is this really fully balanced or does it just convert bal->SE?

Heh. That was my (actually ours, my two brothers and I) table back in a previous decade. My brother still had it up until a few years ago but sold it (rewired arm and other mods).

Sorry, I know you didn't do the mods, and I'm sure it sounds fine. I don't think having the caps hurts anything. To SO: does the Thorens table with the SME support modern cartridges like the Zyx well? I know Thorens such as my TD320 require highly compliant cartridges, but that is with a Thorens arm. I still have an unhealthy fixation on Thorens stuff and always wanted a TD125

Why in the hell would you snubber Schottkys? They don't have the turn off noise of normal/HexFRED-type diodes, so no caps needed...

First time I've seen it. Nice improvement, as emailing your order to them was a massive PITA IMO.

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