Pars

I would avoid ODLs. Klaus may not warranty it as well. As with any Odyssey purchase (used), get the serial number and call Klaus at (317) 299 5578 to check on it before buying it. Not to stir anything up, but what is the story on the ODL?

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

Can't see anything out of the ordinary in the pic. What's so special about those PRPs?

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Sure it counts as one. One active and two redundant (or spare parts, if you prefer). Very prescient

Sorry to hear that Mike. Hope all goes as well as possible.

Smeggy, I use the same jack on my Dynalo, which is set up to also be a preamp, with the pre-outs wired off the switched jack. I have a modified e12 on it, with a muting switch, but of course this disables all outputs. When I tried it as a pre and listened to phones, I was also getting very quiet sound from the speakers (power amp stays on all the time). I haven't figured out why it is bleeding thru but it is. All three contacts do switch, so

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Happy Birthday Justin!

Marc, Don't know as I haven't completed mine yet, or even gotten to the point that I could test it (slow build mode ). I am using a Pesante Dissipante 2U 300 case for an SE build, so should be good heatwise. I will be using a single sigma22 as the PSU, with a 120VA (I think, might be 160?) SumR tranny.

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Nope. Plays it inverted, however. Fear back on...

DigiPete can step in here, but I would think you could go longer on the boards and still retain Dynahi compatibility? As long as the output transistors are on the same footprint so you could use identical mounting brackets, it should be OK. Not sure on mounting holes on the other end; whether those would need to be in the same place?

Good point Nate. And your post was not taken in a bad light whatsoever.

8A. Still only 1000V though (only... hehe).

Got one. Including home-made leads. Bridge works too. My dad doesn't have a lab (and wouldn't have a clue as to what we are talking about, but I digress).

Measured using the drop across the 2 ohm resistors? I assume this is something like Q27, Q31, Q28 and Q32 (half populated)? Why the big discrepancy between the + and - rail gates? Once again, why the discrepancy between + and - rails (I assume these figures are for 1.11V for R27, R28, and 1.74V for R29 and R30)? You discerned enough of the Blowtorch from that epic thread to build one?

Yeah, I always get them as good as I can, then pop the servo in and relax. Under 1mV or +/- 1mV without the servo is plenty good, at least on I/V boards with no feedback (those are harder to get stable than the dyna---- are).

From article: North American reach includes (may not be limited to): Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida ,

Grawk liked his As said, if you can build it yourself, sigma FTW

Did you try it without the servo in? Usually I see how low I can get offset and then put the servo in.

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I think it was an embarrassment to him when someone posted the link to the proper USB spec, instead of the Wiki spec that he (they?) had been using. I agree that if it is marketed as a USB cable, it better meet spec. He deleted that post, then made the decision to delete the rest of them. I suppose some of this comes back to the Amphora thread responses, etc. as well.