Pars

Happy Birthday gents!

The Vishay noise suppression capacitors that he discusses (from Mouser) are a Vishay part number F17104101000 and should be these. Referenced in this text in the article:

Money sent.

FTFY. Might re-read the welcome pm while you're at it...

x2... hope you shake it off (rather than doctor visit)!

Looks nice. Probably good that you got the Grace arm vs. one of the Thorens TP-16 Mk. x (II probably for that vintage).

Happy Birthday Pete!

You could also take a look at John Risch's filter on audioasylum. I think DIYcable used to offer a kit for it; not sure if they still do or not. Personally, I'd just buy a Brickwall and be done with it.

I didn't like that idea personally because of the ability to select multiple outputs at once. so I didn't comment on it. Rotary switches are $30 or less for a really good one; dig thru the links I posted, but Lorlin switches are ~$8 or so each; Grayhills a bit more. Look at Digikey or Mouser as your main suppliers for the switches. RCA jacks I would go elsewhere (partsexpress, Cardas CTFA from Soniccraft or handmade electronics, etc.).

Happy Birthday! Nice to see you around a bit lately.

Almost all commercial audio equipment has left and right signal ground shorted together internally, so you could get away with a 3PDT switch. The Electroswitch C4 series is supposed to be quite good: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/639/1674.pdf Take a look at Nate's post #8 inthis thread. Decent rotary switches? - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio For switching between sources, you could certainly use a DPDT or 3- 4PDT toggle switch if you are certain that 2 inputs is the most you would ever need. Rotary Switches - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio Another good thread on rotary switches. Note that many of the quality switches will have a high rotational effort, so a large knob will be needed to make turning these easy.

That is good to know as I am kinda looking for a good but not $$$ closed can for home use. I don't listen to classical all the time, but they would need to be able to handle Mahler, etc. Doesn't sound like these would be a candidate then...

It is hard for me to think of cans with an MSRP of $350 as entry level. Many people would think that $100 is expensive for a pair of headphones.

Happy Birthday Todd!

Thanks for the reply. Do you have a link to this mod? Somehow I don't see how a pad mod can help the problems that I am hearing with these, but as always I could be wrong. I have verified that these are genuine AT BTW and not fakes. I have p to 30 days to return these, so unless I am certain that a mod will take care of the problems I am hearing, I will just return them and go a different route.

Happy Birthday to both of you!

I'd been getting back into Black Rebel Motorcycle Club after hearing and buying their latest SC (Baby81). Via listening on last.fm to similar, I had run across a few bands that I liked who I will probably be buying cds of... The Black Angels The Ravonettes And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Dead Shiny Toy Guns The Warlocks Girl in a Coma The Duke Spirit The Kills

I just bought a pair of these from Beach Camera (refurb) and initially I am not too impressed with them. I find them to be bassy and a bit bloated and lacking in midrange definition. Reading the mod thread on HF, it sounds like this mod would do what I think these need, but I was wondering if anyone here had done this mod and what your impressions were with it? Or would I be better off just getting rid of these? I was looking for an inexpensive closed can for home use; I need something that doesn't leak sound to disturb others in the room. I am driving these with a Dynalo, so plenty of power.

V- in the case of the M3 (and many other virtual ground amplifiers) depends upon your perspective, but is actually the - of the single ended power supply. It functions on this schematic as the - rail, (or V-). Ground reference is generated by a TLE2426 and is 1/2 the potential of V+ and V-. So for example if you are using a 24Vdc power supply, if you measure V- in relation to the - lead of the PSU, you would get 0V. However, if you measure it in relation to the virtual ground (SG on the schematic), you will see -12Vdc for V- (and +12Vdc for V+).

The circled area on the power wires looks like a solder splash. The IEC connector wiring is not heatshrinked, and the ground tab appears to be unconnected She seems to have little understanding of power wiring conventions in North America for equipment such as this. I would think that this info is plastered around the DIY section on HF if one wanted to search for it, as well as lots of other avenues to find it. The mounting of the PSU board is an essay in fail all by itself. Strange with all of -=her=- braided minis, etc. that the wire twists are done so poorly here.

Happy Birthday!

That is a pretty good deal. I have this recording and like it.

Redirect to the target website Some concert DVDs as well as the Beatles Remastered at what appears to be a good price.

Went very well. Looks really nice!

Any reason for 2oz copper? Better heat dissipation or better solderability? Also, black solder mask? Ewwww.... Who are the fabs you are considering?