Pars

Regarding the voltage imbalance between PR and PL that I was seeing (130Vdc vs. 112Vdc): I swapped tubes and it moved with the tubes, and stayed the same voltage-wise, so I guess I can conclude that it is the tube matching and not CCS matching causing this. I guess I can also conclude that the amp is working correctly? I'll finish casing it and go from there. BTW, I was missing one of the feet for the case, but I guess I can find something else that will work fine.

That is kinda what I did on mine, though your suggestion to mount the components to the panel first is a good one... why didn't I think of that Oh wait, I didn't have the panel cutout yet. BTW, I may come up with some extra panels if anyone needs an extra one. I'll let you know if these magically appear or not.

^ too long (the case, that is)

Marc: I drilled the front panel tonight. The pot and the jack positions are fine, including the antirotate nub. The switch was a little high (template) compared to the actual switch. If I were to do it over, I would make a slot (vertical) for the toggle only to come thru. The switch sits back so the barrel of the switch does not stick thru or touch the front panel. On the rear, I haven't had a problem with the RCA jack screw versus the IEC screws, but I haven't put them both in yet. Hmmm, will have to take a look. By eye, it appears that the case is pretty much 2x the thickness of the plastic end spacers too short. I will need a washer behind the jack and the pot. Better as Kevin said to slide the PCB all the way back so the RCA jacks fit properly. OK. I didn't do any matching. Voltage moved with the tube, so I guess it is what it is. I replaced the heatsinks with some extras from my Gilmore V2 build. Mouser 532-563002B00. I mounted them upside down, and will cut the tabs off. BJTs were running around 50-51

Got the amp built and casing partially done (back panel). I tried to move all panel components as far forward or backward as the case may be in order to compensate for the case length, including partially straightening the pot pins to move it forward a bit. Same with the switch. The RCA jack on the template seems slightly high, though it could very well be my placement of the template on the panel MJEs are running around 70

Amb has some in his store.

But then it would be burn out, and wouldn't qualify...

Mouser 512-ISL9R860PF2 ISL9R860PF2 Fairchild Semiconductor Rectifiers These are the Stealth rectifiers that I have used. TO-220F package.

Yeah, that would work. Probably just one shorter nylon screw and nut on the end diode would suffice. What might work better would be to use some fullpak diodes, which are insulated. The MUR series doesn't offer them other than the MURF860G. I've used some Fairchild Stealth diodes from Mouser before in a sigma22 (the one on my dynahi) which use this package. Most layouts don't put these diode packages in back to back, but keep the orientation the same (sigma22 for example). Just pointing out a potential problem once these kits are released into the wild, as I could easily bend the two into contact with each other, intentionally or not. Because of the heat issues, there is also more likelihood of peeps running these without the tops on, so more chances of fingers getting in there.

Oh... you're supposed to use solder on these? With heat? Seriously, for the production run or whatever, this could be a concern. If someone can f something up, they will. Poking around on the board, etc., they could be bent into contact with one another. The caps protect them somewhat.

Mike, my condolences. Me: heat turning up on project at work, but it will be done in a week. Have gone riding (bike) every night after work for 20-30 mins (5-8 miles). Up to averaging 16 to 18 mph, but bike path can slow things down. Have to be mindful of the kids, walkers, joggers, etc. I'm sure this is not up to Chris' (dreadhead) standards Haven't seen him around here for a bit, hope all is ok.

My brother brought the rest of the parts over yesterday, so I got started on building this. Looking at the MUR810s, I assume that the tabs of D5 and D6 touching each other would not be a welcome occurrence? Anyone do anything to safeguard against this happening?

Fortunately I never even saw the red vodka, not that I would have had any... Beer or red vodka... hmmm, tough decision

That reminds me. I wanted to meet Pete Millet at CJ, but never did. CanFest, not so much.

Same douche who has the "cap garden" for sale Classe' Audio Dr6r Upgraded to MAX For Sale | AudiogoN Some pretty questionable mods

Happy Birthday Birgir!

Happy Birthday Mike!!

Coupling caps: e-speakers is out of 4.7uf; Madisound carries them (Clarity Cap SA 4.7uf, 630V). 35 x 38mm. I know I saw a post or one of the emails discussed max physical size, but I assume the ones from madisound are fine?

Happy Birthday!

Yep. That ad auction had cunt written all over it. Reminds me of test equipment sellers on epay that say they can't tell if something works as they have "no way of testing it". What business are they in?

Yeah, that knob is way nice. That is titanium? BTW, what ever happened to that guy on hf that was doing knobs? Seems like he disappeared, but I guess I haven't been over there much (at all) lately. I think he did a titanium one or two...

The order acknowledgment that my brother got from RadioDaze included the following: *If you have ordered a Hammond product there will be some additional time needed to get it from them or have them ship it to you, so please be aware. So I am guessing they do the same thing. I ordered enough resistors that I can do R2 until the choke shows up. I suppose the footprint, etc. on these is proprietary, so no alternate part/supplier other than Hammond.

All of the ones that Mouser carries are E-C-B. ON, STM and Fairchild. ON and STM have the pictures in their datasheets showing the back (metal tab), but when looking at the plastic front, are consistent in pinout. Parts are on order. I take it the preferred build is with the C-L-C filter in the PSU instead of the C-R-C, and to use the CCS? Hammond choke ordered from RadioDaze. We'll see how fast they are. I also had Craig order the Pana TS-HC caps from Mouser. They do carry the TS-HA as well, but do not have them yet and delivery was early August (8-9-2010). I substituted a 47uf cap of the same series as the 33uf one that was backordered also (C5 IIRC).

Happy Birthday!

Also, C1L/R: I assume 250V is too low for these in case Q1/Q2 were to blow. I have a ton of MKP10 0.1/250V around.